Get a satellite subscription! What country are you in? UK terrestrial TV is all digital these days, so RF noise will either not affect it or kill the reception just about completely.by dmould - Ormerod
The one I chose is 781-5048 - it doesn't have brass bushes as I had wanted, but it clamps tight and still works. Bit noisy though, so I'll search for something quieter.by dmould - Ormerod
I agree with Markus - your Y belt is slipping. It is not that easy to get it tight, but you will have to persevere. I suggest you read this topic and as soon as you are getting reasonable prints, print the parts needed to modify that part of the design.by dmould - Ormerod
In the case in question, I started slicing the problem code while my fan duct was printing, so Slic3r had been working for over an hour (even big STLs only take a few minutes to slice on this PC). I must confess I did not check to ensure it had finished, just assumed it must have completed after all that time, closed it down and copied the G file to the SD card. Sometimes Windoze brings up theby dmould - Ormerod
I was wrong - it's not the firmware. The issue with that one seemed to be Slic3r. The re-sliced file was much bigger than the problem file, so I sliced again with the original settings and it made a bigger file than it had at first. Looking into the problem file, it ends in the middle of a move, so it was truncated. I've noticed that slic3r sometimes stalls on my system (W8), so perhaps that'by dmould - Ormerod
I've just had a print (of the extruder housing) stop at the same place 3 times in a row. As I have seen other people reporting the same thing, it seems that there is definitely a bug in the firmware. I had Slic3r set to "wipe after retract" which is perhaps what is creating the problem G code, though I have printed other parts successfully with the same setting, so it appears to be part-dependaby dmould - Ormerod
Careful that the nail polish remover you use does not have added oil (many do). The oil will be left after the acetone evaporates and make the problem worse not better.by dmould - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Don't you still need the heatsink and fan to prevent the filament melting too far up the nozzle? Or is that only for PLA? I think Ian means that the middle outlet duct at the bottom could be blocked so it doesn't cool the extruded filament as it exits the nozzle, but cooling is still needed for the heatsink as far as I am aware.by dmould - Ormerod
Hmmm .. I've not got a great deal of ventilation when printing at home (too cold to have windows open!). I'll have to be careful. The smell is barely noticeable though. I prefer to print in ABS so that prototype parts for which the machine was bought to make are as close as possible in characteristic to the injection moulded ABS parts we will eventually be making for mass production. Some ofby dmould - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown Would you believe it... I sent the message, and then a few moments later it springs in to life. Sorry to trouble you guys... If you have a working ethernet cable to plug in, it speeds up the initial time to come alive tremendously. You don't have to use the ethernet, just plug in a cable that gives the Duet a valid link. If you don't have an ethernet hub available, an ethernet caby dmould - Ormerod
Ian, your diagram could be ambiguous in the Y direction. Your notation is based upon the movement of the bed, but some people may think it refers to the position (relative movement) of the nozzle over the bed.by dmould - Ormerod
I am intending to build a spares kit for my Ormarod so as to limit downtime in the event of a failure. What parts are particularly prone to wear/fail and so should be included? I guess printing a set of all plastic parts, especially the gears would be prudent, but what do the old hands find need replacing from time to time? Nozzle - does it sometimes get blocked & need replacing? Extruderby dmould - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts If you're printing in ABS, read victors thread: You'll need to print an x-carriage, nozzle-mount, z-runner-mount and extruder body (then the other extruder parts) as the heat will get to them eventually. If you're doing a lot of ABS, print all the printer parts in ABS. Ian RepRapPro tech support Working on Sunday ???? Very much appreciated, Ian. Yes, I've already replaced my Xby dmould - Ormerod
I found that when I tighten the bolts that hold the fan, it distorts the fan housing because it is only bolted through at the bottom, and the fan blades start rubbing on the casing, either seizing the fan or making a loud noise. Slackening the bolts cures the problem, but then the heat sink is not clamped tightly to the cooling block because it is held with the same bolts. I have bought anotherby dmould - Ormerod
Quoteiamburny Y Bed attachment parts to avoid slipage Thankyou for those parts. I printed them and fitted them yesterday, and it has made a huge difference to the quality of my prints - I now get perfectly straight sides and square corners. My technique was to bolt on the parts leaving the bolts a mm or so loose, attach the belts to the posts pulling as tight as I could by hand, and then tightby dmould - Ormerod
Ah well, all part of the fun! Personally I would have preferred a full-size SD card, or even better a USB memory stick seeing that it has to be taken out to transfer new print jobs. The micro card is too fiddly for my fingers! I wasted half an hour looking for the darn thing once - the spring in the socket caused it to fly across the room and, unknown to me at the time, land in a small tin ofby dmould - Ormerod
OK, that appears to have done the trick. The hollow cube now has a wall thickness of 0.5mm as the G file states. I've printed out a new fan duct in ABS with that setting, and it was pretty much perfect, with the holes needing no filing. I am however a bit puzzled as to why I have needed such a large factor when nobody else appears to have this issue. As said, my extrusion length is calibratedby dmould - Ormerod
Thanks droftarts. I meant 0.6mm not 0.06mm thickness. The G file states 0.5mm perimeter width, so I am over-extruding. Presumably I need to enter a factor of 0.83. I'll try that and re-print the hollow cubeby dmould - Ormerod
I think I am extruding a bit too much as holes etc. in my parts are slightly too small, and pins slightly big. The feed is correct (100mm feed is exactly 100mm of filament). I saw that there is a way to fine-tune the "extrusion multiplier" at I am stuck right near the start where it says, "Open the Gcode file and look for the value for perimeters extrusion width." I do not know where to lookby dmould - Ormerod
OK, I think I've diagnosed the fault. It seems that the short to 12V did more than damage just the Duet. I already knew that it had blown my SD card (I replaced it). I think it also overloaded the IR emitter of the Z sensor. The phototransistor seems to still work and my phone's camera shows an IR output from the LED, but I think it is a lot weaker than it should be (difficult to tell as I haby dmould - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Hi dmould, Yes the thermistor reading code has changed. The old code under-reported the extruder temp at low temperatures and over-read it at high temperatures. However, the code for reading the IR sensor has not changed at all. Perhaps your sensor has shifted position, or the connector is coming loose? The screw holes in it allow for quite a lot of movement. It is up as high as possiby dmould - Ormerod
Yay! my replacement Duet arrived this morning - thanks RRP. I can of course no longer look at the temperatures the old board was reporting, and this board is reading differently judging by how quickly it reaches the set temperature and the fact that the bed and extruder temperatures are both only a few degrees out at room temperature (the previous board reported temperatures below freezing). Tby dmould - Ormerod
Try increasing the current to 1000mA in the startup config file - worked for me.by dmould - Ormerod
When I got slightly uneven layers I tracked it down to very occasional slipped steps in the Y axis. This happened more when the bed made small fast movements (e.g. during short non-printing moves) than when making large movements. There was no progressive movement because the machine seemed to miss steps in one direction just as often as it did in the other, so it averaged out over the whole prby dmould - Ormerod
For the benefit of people who have not seen my other posts on the subject, I found that the IR Z sensor works far better - more consistent and almost unaffected by ambient light after I printed a black X-carriage part on which it mounts. Black paint should achieve the same thing. The readings go way down - more so than dc42's resistor mod - my reading at 1mm height over white paper is 230, andby dmould - Ormerod
Quotemarkbee As we are taking settings - any ideas how to get rid of those "blobs" in inner edges? Outer edges are ok... My guess is that they are caused at the start or end of a non-print move that is made without retracting the filament. Make sure you have changed the setting to retract 4mm instead of the default of 1mm, and try a print after unticking the box that says "Only retract when croby dmould - Ormerod
Update - It was my carelessness. I murdered the Duet. I had forgotten that last night after powering down, I unplugged the bed ribbon from the Duet to measure the thermistor resistance as the bed cooled. First thing this morning I spotted the disconnected cable and plugged it back in, and then was interrupted and did other things for an hour or so before returning to the Ormerod. Although I dby dmould - Ormerod
Darn! My Duet board died at first switch-on this morning. U2 (3.3V regulator) gets red hot, burning smell, both heaters come on immediately, no USB or Ethernet comms. My Duet is no more. It is deceased. It is an ex-Duet. The 12V is correct, so there is no obvious cause, I know it was working right up to switch-off last night because I was using Pronterface to monitor the extruder temperaturby dmould - Ormerod
Quotedc42 @victors, there already is a heatsink, and it is the heatsink block that the screws are screwed into. So it's not a case of 240C making its way up the screws, its a case of heat starting at 240C trying to make its way up the nozzle, getting removed to some (hopefully large) extent in the heatsink block, then heat making its way from the heatsink block up the screws. So I think the answeby dmould - Ormerod
It really does sound like either your ribbon cable is incorrect at one end or the other (ensure it is not plugged in one pin out on the Duet, there should be no pins visible at either end of the ribbon plug), or you have a short across your thermistor. With the ribbon cable completely unplugged at the Duet end, you should see a temperature reading of -273.1 If you do, then it is definitely ribbby dmould - Ormerod