For the last 2 years I have printed ABS without a fan in an enclosed printer with a 150 watts bulb inside that keeps the temperature at 90 degrees and have never had issues with curling or delamination. For my understanding curling in ABS is due to low extrusion temperature and too fast cooling of the part, as it cools the ABS will shrink and pull up or inwards. One remedy you can use is to reduby ggherbaz - Printing
No, only for PLA. For ABS use an enclosure to keep it warm, if you cannot use an enclosure use a high power light bulb facing the printed part.by ggherbaz - Printing
Replace the resistors with a regulator. You have a circuitry on the board and it's altering the resistors value once is triggered.by ggherbaz - Printing
Have you check the 12 volts power supply? You might have it set for a different imput voltage.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Shifting may be caused by several factors: Under or over powered stepper, loosen belts or pulleys, loosen hotend, etc. First check and adjust all your stepper motor drivers to the right vref, after that chech all the belts and pulleys for any slack in the belts and loosen lock bolts in the pulleys and then check that your hotend is secured and can't move. Next calibrate your extruder to the poiby ggherbaz - Printing
I'm not familiar with that board and there is little information online, you need to cut the 2 wires that supply the power to the display and using a 5 volts regulator re connect them to your 12 volts supply, best way is to look for the display schematics and find the right pins.by ggherbaz - Printing
Good that is improving but yet let me explain it again: Your 0.4 nozzle when extruding the filament makes a line that it's bigger than the nozzle orifice, a normal 0.4 size nozzle extrudes 0.48 if your setting is auto, if manual you can set it to 0.4 but you will face some issues as you are. Those lines you are seeing are the infill crossing the shell, you can see it yourself as it print those lby ggherbaz - Printing
Too fast for the temperature to begin with, you need to calibrate your nozzle to bed height for first layer, shell thickness cannot be the same as nozzle size (infill is crossing it) usually a 0.4 nozzle extrudes 0.48 so your shell should be minimum at that or 0.96 for better results, top and bottom needs to have more layers, bottom 3 and top 4 to 6. Your flow should be 100% so check your extrudeby ggherbaz - Printing
You are overloading the 5 volts regulator from the main board, that's way it works fine when usb cable is plugged. The full graphics display puts too much stress on the little regulator. Use a separate supply for it using an Lm7805 and redirecting the power from it.by ggherbaz - Printing
Well it all depends on what you are printing, for small pieces you can use the center of the bed where the heat will be most even, but for large size prints you need to have the whole surface mapped.by ggherbaz - Printing
21:59:33.906 : Bed x: 170.00 y: 106.00 z: -0.25 22:00:18.028 : Bed x: 169.00 y: 186.00 z: -0.27 21:59:24.921 : Bed x: 169.00 y: 26.00 z: 0.05 These are the readings you need to pay attention to, specifically the ones with the minuses. Use a level and try to center the bubble in all directions and in a X, then try again if problem persists then use a glass on top and see if helps.by ggherbaz - Printing
My assumption it's that you have a bent in the platform, no all ABL settings are linear and doesn't compensate for curvature. The best option you have is to add a glass sheet on top of your aluminum bed or try to flatten the current one.by ggherbaz - Printing
Two questions: 1.- Do you have EEPROM enabled? 2.- Do you have LCD or print with computer? Once the probe register the points the matrix is generated be drawing lines between those points in the Z plane, ABL do not compensate if your plate is warped, only if it is tilted / angled on the corners. Using 3 points instead of 2 helps a little more because the added line segments. The main problem yoby ggherbaz - Printing
Sorry I'm lefty. At the front you have it at 75, reduce it to as close to 10 as possible, back is at 150 make it as close to 180 as possible, left is at 0 so it's ok and right is at 131 you need to pass the 150 mark to get a decent matrix 170 will be best.by ggherbaz - Printing
7 cm on both front and right is too big.by ggherbaz - Printing
I assume your probe is at the right side of the hotend? The space you are leaving without probing is too big and probably the reason for the failure. Can you move your probe or increase a little the coordinates?by ggherbaz - Printing
Have you done the calibration of your axis? Z steps might be off. Or your extruder or hotend might have failed?by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
Something isn't right with your Z axis, are the steppers turned off? They should hold position. But print a couple of clips and just snap them on to the lead screws under the carriages, that will prevent them from moving down.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
No, you need it in ABS.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
With Simplify3d you can add as many processes you wat to a piece, but don't think you can do that with slic3r. But you can add more solid layers to the top and/or slow manually your printer speed.by ggherbaz - Printing
Not too many people can afford a 2000 dollars printer or are willing to put that much into something that they may not keep, that's where the cheap printers are effective, it allows the introduction to the hobby and experimentation, that's why even though isn't desirable to have saggy rods and flimsy frames it will keep happening untill new production methods improve current designs.by ggherbaz - General
Not for rails but for rods they do. Haven't seen a saggy rail yet.by ggherbaz - General
Any printer with 8mm rods and direct drive will show that artifact, either switch to a thicker rod, linear rail bowden system or do as most of the people do use ABL to compensate for it.by ggherbaz - General
Your bed should have 4 adjusting bolts under it at each corner, move manually your bed and nozzle to each point close to the bolts and tighten or loosen the bolts accordingly, if your bed doesn't have them then yes you will have to move the endstop.by ggherbaz - Printing
Check stepper motor wires and connection to the board, and swap stepper drivers if you can do it with your board.by ggherbaz - Printing
Are you printing from the computer? Your printer might be waiting for the next instruction and if another program is running in the background it might delay the communication with the printer.by ggherbaz - Printing
For point 1, yes you need to calibrate your nozzle height, once you home the Z axis use a filler gauge or a piece of paper to adjust it. For point 2, you might be printing from the computer? If so be sure no other programs are running in background mode.by ggherbaz - Printing
Your wall and infill settings in the slicer are set incorrectly.by ggherbaz - Printing
There is a cnc shield for the Uno (Protoneer) and you can use GRBL firmware, but it is for stepper motors and not for encoder servo motors.by ggherbaz - General
Unless you are working with thin wall parts it doesn't really matter, it will be your printer setup and the part function what will define the wall thickness. On thin walls is best to use a CAD software to measure the wall and decide from there what's best. If you don't have access to a CAD software, you will have to do a trial and error with the slicer software and see which option works best.by ggherbaz - Printing