if you are using a prusa i3 -the x-axis belt is 6mm and the bearing on the rework version is 4mm wide, so the belt catches for a milisecond and shunts the work. does it every layer -it is helped by your acceleration from one side to the other of the x-axis. -try printing at a slower speed, and print an 6mm idler for the 4mm wide bearing, -you can also print a bearing idler for the y-axis, soby pushthatbolder - Printing
i am having problems making the new logo last longer, as he describes it in the blog post, Marlin might of changed the way you do it from then, anybody know how to add an extra delay for the initial logo?by pushthatbolder - Developers
i was skimming the post and came to the conclusion of setting the end stop from the MIN location and put it into the MAX location, therefore it will print in the right orientation. worked for me.by pushthatbolder - Reprappers
Some Genuine Hot-ends are made in china, Yes, Its true. These parts are produced in bulk and Original Designer gets the order, but also extra is made... Different companies buy these parts from these manufacturers and put together there own hot-end assemblies. at the same time, companies get a genuine hot-end (lets not say genuine, lets say Quality) At the same time, companies acquire quality hby pushthatbolder - General
Your nozzle seems too hot, I am printing my Chinese Filament at 190c without issue test your thermistor, is it reading correctly? it may be giving a lower reading. and extruder is actually much hotter than you think. Check the setting in your firmware regarding thermistor settings. or try this, Disable steppers bring temp down to 150 and try to hand feed the filament with the feed-wheel, and bby pushthatbolder - General
Try at .35 layer and 50% infill. Have you calibrated feedrate? If you press 50mm filament extrusion, does it eat 50mm of filament?by pushthatbolder - General
I thought 'UV Curing' then google tells me UV-curing silicone rubbers enable new applications. Therfore, if you have a pre-mix, the shelf life is longer if it does not have UV light reaching it.by pushthatbolder - General
CNC caulking gun . Using a plunger, make your silicon mix and squeeze through nozzle tip. expirementing with cures and hardener mixes may help. Air flow may be the fix for fast curing, kinda like flashing with cold air. its worth a thought.by pushthatbolder - General
Check all the lines on the board, make sure they are not shorting out half way through its circuit.by pushthatbolder - General
Printed roller will work well, if you can print in a durable material, like Nylon. Would be good to machine some teflon blanks around a 625zz bearing and make it like that.by pushthatbolder - General
If you are trying to program your Ramps board you must do the following. Ramps+Mega2560 = Hardware Arduino IDE = Software Marlin or similar = Firmware You must use you software to add Firmware to your hardware. Mega 2560 is a development board powered by a Microprocessor, so its like a mini computer and it gives instructions to the Aux ports, in this case the ramps board. in turn powering andby pushthatbolder - General
Ive noticed with the threaded rods, that is they are used at higher speeds (same speeds of Belt Systems) that they are very loud. find a video of the Aluminatus Printer and listen for when the printer stops at a corner or tries to stop at a point, you will notice the difference in sound compared to belts.by pushthatbolder - General
hello, my motor had the same a/b set-up Pin 1 is B- A1 Pin 3 is B B1 Pin 4 is A A2 Pin 6 is A- B2 it worked for me. looking from the first wire it went like this First and third for A1 and A2 second and fourth B1 and B2by pushthatbolder - General
Cork is very easy to work with, Cork is also Very Cheap, So cheap you would think it grows on trees. you can see the thermal conductivity of Materials here, You can see Cork comes in pretty low conductivity (cork board is 0.043, while Aluminium is 205 (at 25c) coper is rated at 400) and any insulation material wants to be around 0.035 - 0.16, so for your price cork is probably easiest to sourcby pushthatbolder - General
I have the same problem, i think i have blown the 5v Bridge Regulator on the Arduino Mega2560 board, there for I could power the Arduino using the 12v barrel plug or change the 5v regulator, or change the Arduino Mega 2560 board.by pushthatbolder - General
this heavy duty from is made from 18mm Black Marine Plywood and will not wobble when fully constructed. made is Australia and selling for $55 deliveredby pushthatbolder - Australia - for sale
5000 degrees celsius. ??? Iridium melts at 2450c, Steel melts at 1540c. ABS plastic is extruded at 230-245c. I hope you have a very good blast suit for the extreme heat your nozzle is creating. the whole thing may disintegrate. What type of resistor are you using 100k? different? Your resistor may be broken? or my have not chosen the right options in the Configuration file. can you provide yourby pushthatbolder - General
cork is good. comes as squares in the form of floor tilesby pushthatbolder - General
I am using standard A4988 drivers and want to upgrade to DRV8825 drivers for the upgraded performance. DRV8825 drivers will allow for a quieter print and better overall performance . A4988 drivers are the drivers i use currently and provide 1/16 stepping with the 4x bridging pins underneath. and DRV8825 provide 1/32 stepping. but with the same amount of bridging pins underneath? do I need toby pushthatbolder - General
ramps shield is fine to leave on. do you see any flashing lights? do you have it plugged in proper? have you selected your board type from the Arduino IDE interface? are you using the right COM port?by pushthatbolder - General
I am using an Extra Large Controller 12864 LCD with 'u8glib' firmware I was wondering how I could change or redesign the logos and graphics that are standard with the 'u8glib' firmware. this is a 128 x 64 dot matrix LCD display. But everybody all ready knows. i don't want to remove all the information i just want to replace the logo with my own personal image. How could i design the logo forby pushthatbolder - Developers
you can buy silicon heatbeds for about $50 for the size you are looking for.by pushthatbolder - Mechanics
did you unplug the arduino board from a power source?by pushthatbolder - General
You probably know about ABS juice, 10mm length of 3mm filament (0.07g) dissolved in 10ml acetone. ABS juice is commonly used as a bed preparation to help parts stick to a Heated Bed. But I have been using all my failed prints in the Acetone, making a REALLY thick but smooth juice. Pour it on the bed, and smooth out and make level. it is making all my prints have a glossy bottom surface. as welby pushthatbolder - General
make sure electronics air well cooled, possibly away from build, as electronics heat up, motors are mis-aligned and skip steps. mine are joint to the body of the printer, as of today i have installed a fan on the box and made it so the flow does not get to the print bed. there are free fan pin near the D1 or D2 diode.by pushthatbolder - General
try tightening all the gear drivers on your motor shaft. they might be loose enough to slipby pushthatbolder - Printing
I had the same problem. the x-axis was inverted. Because the basic Marlin Config does not account for the end-stop placement of the prusa i3. parts will be mirrored. i fixed it by changing the endstop status to home on the Max and not on the min and inverting the directions. so it homes at z0 y0 x200by pushthatbolder - Printing