Does anyone know the specs for the transparent PTFE heatshrink used on the thermistor in the hot end? Mine has been damaged somehow and the heatshrink I have does not shrink far enough to fit in the hole in the heater block.by Crouchy - Ormerod
Thanks dc42. I replaced the burnt connectors on both the cable and the probe and the printer is functional again. I actually soldered the wires to the crimps as the crimp tool I have is sub-standard. If I disconnect the thermistor now the temperature shows "Error" in the web interface and turns the heater off. I can only conclude that a bad crimp was responsible for my original problem asby Crouchy - Ormerod
I tried disconnecting the thermistor on the duet shield and got similar results, around -5.8 degrees. Unfortunately, I've now hit another problem that's put me out of action for the moment. See attached pictures. Not being electrically minded I have no idea if this is related at all.by Crouchy - Ormerod
I have done some more testing with this problem. I heated the nozzle up and then set the temp to zero before I started so it would not overheat. When I disconnected one wire of the thermistor the temperature actually dropped to toggle between -4.8, -3.8 and -2.9 degrees. The dc42 probe's LED cycled through off, bright and dim, possibly in time with the temperature reading changes, until I recoby Crouchy - Ormerod
The thermistor pulled out of the socket on the green wire and bent back past your probe, perhaps it shorted on the probe? I have a print running now which looks like it will run most of the night. I will experiment with it tomorrow and let you know what happens.by Crouchy - Ormerod
QuoteTreito Strange, in my case the Extruder heating was turned off with an Error and this I saw already sometimes ago as I used the firmware from DC42. So what is the difference? Okay a shortcut would be one possibility. So the emergency shutdown could happen if the temperature changes quite fast to catch up a shortcut for example. What kind of wiring do you use? I'm using dc42 single nozzle prby Crouchy - Ormerod
I've had this a few times. it usually indicates that the head has caught on the print somewhere, maybe because a corner lifted when the head moved away.by Crouchy - Ormerod
I was just printing something and noticed that the thermistor #1 reading went from 200 degrees to 6 in an instant. Very quickly after that the printer started smoking. It turned out that the thermistor wire had come loose and snagged on the print which disconnected it. The printer was reading lower than desired temperature and just continued heating. If I wasn't in the room at the time this cby Crouchy - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Strange, that should work. Can you confirm the following: 1. When you try to home the Y axis, the bed initially moves to the left as seen from the front of the machine, but doesn't stop at the end? If it moves to the right, then most likely your endstop switch has become disconnected, or you are using the wrong homing file. 2. To verify that the M574 line has been seen and processed,by Crouchy - Ormerod
I have an ormerod 1. I've just upgraded from version 0.78v. config files are straight from your SD-Image folder. Everything appears to be working, except for homing the y axis. It hits the end but doesn't stop. my endstop config line is straight from your document M574 X0 Y2 Z0 S1 ; set endstop configuration (Y endstop only, at high end, active high) What am I doing wrong?by Crouchy - Ormerod
Its a good idea. I think on demand would be best.by Crouchy - Ormerod
No problem. Its here:by Crouchy - Ormerod
Dave, One slight bug in the web interface here: From the GCode file: ; filament used = 11887.6mm (28.6cm3) I uploaded this file and clicked the info button. this is what it told me: File information for gcodes/RFWS1214_fixed.gcode Object height 115.44mm Filament Needed 11887600mm Layer height 0.24mm Generated by Slic3r 1.1.7 on 2014-12-18 at 21:11:08 File size 1.345Mb I'm wondering where Iby Crouchy - Ormerod
I had a similar bulge on my prints which i attributed to the nozzle resting on the print while the extruder retracted between layers. Last night I changed a number of settings; - I turned on "wipe while retracting" - I set "seam position" to "random" and - turned off "retract on layer change". The next print was much better.by Crouchy - Ormerod
I'm interested in a fully soldered board if you still have one available.by Crouchy - Ormerod
QuoteMotoray Hi Crouchy, I would be interested in an Ormerod 1 arm & rib at AU$40 + post, let me know how to proceed. My rib is broken and I made an Aluminium angle to support the arm which helped, but it still wobbles a bit when printing, so not good! I am in Mudgee NSW (2850) Australia Ray I sent you a pm with some more info.by Crouchy - Ormerod
The problem with using this for the Z-axis would be the Z runner mount bearing. You need a perfectly smooth surface for the bearing to run along and that's not easy to achieve in a printed part. The bearing may also wear down the plastic over time. You might be able to get past these problems by adding a stainless steel strip. It's an interesting idea though. It would be nice to be able to pby Crouchy - Ormerod
I have some laser cut parts for the Ormerod v1. (see attached photo) These are straight off the dxf, not DaveK's improved ones. I'll sell them for $AU40 + Postage for 1 x X-arm and 1 x x-rib. I have no idea what the postage is, but will find out for someone who is interested. I have a couple of spare x-ribs as well though i don't know why you'd want one without the other.by Crouchy - Ormerod
i had the same problem. try tightening up the screws on both ends of the 12v power wires.by Crouchy - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown Also had it that it'll accept the homex, and homey fine, then the machine will hang when I want to homez, (I've removed the wait for temp line from the g file), then instead of lowering to the table to touch the glass, it goes up, then up again... I also had this happen. It turned out that my Z axis micro switch had triggered. My homez macro says go up, move into position, theby Crouchy - Ormerod
Click Pause then Reset...by Crouchy - Ormerod
I'm also in Australia. I got mine online from RS. It arrived in less than a week.by Crouchy - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts Crouchy, it's not the same issue. See: Ian RepRapPro tech support Ian, I went back and had a look at my recent stepped prints and they were all at the top of an arch. I had noticed that the prints do tend to curl up at this point, but in most cases the edge would melt back in to place when the nozzle came back around. I will try dropping the temperature a bit. I had some issby Crouchy - Ormerod
I'm also having problems with my Y-axis moving at random. I'm not seeing any "humping" of the drive belt, so I don't think its too loose. Can the belt being too tight have the same effect? This is happening in about one out of every four prints. Reprinting the same file will usually work perfectly.by Crouchy - Ormerod