From your "Computer Image" it could be that you are setting the bed temperature to 110°C? It indicates that it's currently at 66°C (Top line in your photograph). Usually the Start-Up G-Code is set such that it wait for all temperatures to be reached before starting to print. If you are using the filament supplied with the kit, 55°C is a good temperature for the bed. The printer should then startby auser - Ormerod
Full Kit soldered please.by auser - Ormerod
would it be possible to use the smd and modify the fan duct (or whichever part the board is mounted to) to act as a lightguide or diffusor? Sorry I'm on the run hard to check right now.by auser - Ormerod
I would like to pre-order one!by auser - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts Quoteauser18. Multi extruderS. Ian could you maybe try and get dc the required kit? I think he more than deserves it. We're organising it already, no donations needed! .... Great! That frees my 20£ for a 0.35 extruder kit. I found out that i really like printing smallish models and hope this helps details.by auser - Ormerod
Maybe better to have more solid tops layers? On 2nd tought: scrap that, looks like more than 20 layers from the topby auser - Ormerod
I must say the current webif is already great! A huge thank you to matt & dc42! My wishlist (in order of would be most usefullnto myself) 14. Upload other files (would prefer never to unplug sd) 5. Increase upload speed 19. Update FW from webif ;-) Not really needed but probably good ideas: 18. Multi extruderS. Ian could you maybe try and get dc the required kit? I think he more than deserveby auser - Ormerod
nice one! did you glue it in place? using which kind of glue? thanksby auser - Ormerod
Quoteraffybuffy I'm starting to think that you are Mr. RepRap sure are you are really human? i think you might be onto something my appologies, will remove immediatly in case anybody objects! could not resist... Quote... sure are you are really human probably super-human. Thanks, Thanks, Thanks & THANKS dc42!by auser - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quoteauser .. you could use the webif as you do pronterface: just connect it directly ... If I did that, I would not be able to use the PC on the Internet while I am printing! I actually often disconnect my laptop from the printer after I have seen that the first 1 or 2 layer(s) stick, return to the light (from the cellar) and work on the laptop (including internet). Re-Plugging the pby auser - Ormerod
dmould, to start you could use the webif as you do pronterface: just connect it directly with an ethernet lead modern day pc's generally do auto-x-over. This way you could leave th ormerod set to the company ip an use a direct cable @home setting the pc to a suitable ip. The webif is really much nicer plus unplugging never caused any trouble...by auser - Ormerod
great Idea! Unforteunately my dial indicator is too heavy to mount with double sided sticky stuff.by auser - Ormerod
Got myself a dial indicator but am a bit puzzeled how to fix it to the X-carriage. Is there anyboady who did design s mount for such a measurement device by chance? Ideas, sketches are welcome as wellby auser - Ormerod
It is really simple. Especially if the PC running the web-interface has internet connectivity (as well as connectivity to the ormerod). - Go to https://github.com/iamburny/OrmerodWebControl/tree/master - click on reprap.remote.htm - click on "Raw" -> save somewhere - rename to repra.htm - copy to sdcar i belive in the "sys" folder there is also info on the github page. hthby auser - Ormerod
when I had hangs a 99% they where caused by long lines at the end of the g-code. specifically older cura plugins did not remove the "profile" cura likes to put at the end of the g-code. Maybe you could check with a text editor if you have a long line a the end of your g-code. If it is the cura profile: simply remove it the ormerod does not read it.by auser - Ormerod
Quoteantlvk ... where I can buy a new board at reprappro there is a contact form https://reprappro.com/support-page/ select "Sales Enquiry" or @ but please be aware that they use different connectors! regarding RAMPS / Melzi: I'm no expert but I would think that it should work if you mount endstops on all axes (X, Z).by auser - Ormerod
QuotePaulHam Lower the z till you can feel it on the paper, then drop down 0.5mm 0.5mm? Seems a lot to me I would suggest 0.05mm. If you do 0.5 and your first layer is 0.24 then the printer will try to start at -0.26by auser - Ormerod
Hi dc42 which Version would you recommend currently? Quotedc42 I'd still like to rewrite the code to generate the steps for each motor independently, but I haven't time to do that as I need to get on with revenue-generating activities right now. If / When you return to this: I'm just wondering if this problem hasn't been solved before? From what I hear grbl is regarded to have good code for thby auser - Ormerod
QuoteRadianI wonder, do any other RepRap kits require soldering work? I would think so (at least form a quick check of the top threee results form https://www.google.com/search?q=skills%20reprap%20build (2 out of 3 mention soldering)by auser - Ormerod
Just my 0.02: I think soldering one wire should be ok for almost everybody operating a reprapby auser - Ormerod
Quotemoka ... first layer lines should be more flat rather than just thin lines To my eye it look ok in the right-hand lower corner, but not in the upper-left. This is why I think there could be some problem with the bed compensation. @Blitza what FW do you use? When did you last update?by auser - Ormerod
QuoteKP I had this problem recently. I'm not sure if this is the main problem. I think I can see in the picture that the first layer is not being "squished" correctly at the corner closest to the duet-box and more so to the corner wher the extruder currently is at -> this look to me like the bed compensation is not working as expected. I have / had similar problems see http://forums.reprap.orby auser - Ormerod
Just a question: do you have set the Z - home point equal to the first point for the automatic bed compensation? setting them equal by adjusting (either) your M557 P0 position or homez.g and homeall.gby auser - Ormerod
> I really want to avoid crossing perimeters I found that if I UNCHECK "External Perimeters first" I get a nice print quality even without "avoid crossing perimeters" ymmvby auser - Ormerod
Quotedc42 edit homex.g and homey.g not homez.g and homeall.g?by auser - Ormerod
maybe you could try to uncheck "avoid crossing perimeters" in slic3r? This made all the difference in my case also check https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues/1555by auser - Ormerod
hi antlvk do you print from sd card or directly from pronterface? Printing from pronterface only works correctly with dc42's firmwares and a modification to pronterface.by auser - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Of course i can, I send stuff everywhere I would guess it would be easily done for under your limit. Great! let's hope there will be enough interestby auser - Ormerod
I would like to join in but i'm not sure if you are willing to deal with international shipping (to switzerland in my case). I would have no clue how much shipping would be but in total i would be willing to pay up to 40 gbp max (incl. shipping).by auser - Ormerod
I'm currently in the market for a bed... Dibond, alu-cobond etc. seem to be hard to come by here if you don't want a picture on it...by auser - Ormerod