Quotejohneato ....However I do like the idea of doing away with the aluminium. I don’t know if that is a good idea, I would be interested to hear other peoples opinion. John Tried printing PLA at 60 degrees bed temperature without the aluminum plate, I see no difference there Sanded the dents down with grain P400 that's why the surface of the kapton looks a bit dull The aluminum plate nowby ormerod168 - Ormerod
If the tube end is flat from cutting and feels tight around the filament, don't use a drill to open the ends Put a piece of filament inside the tube, put it on a table and carefully roll the tube under a ruler, it will expand to circle and stay that way PTFE don't seem to have any memory at all, it must be very happy Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteappjaws1 ...the feeder had problems pulling the filament all the way from the spool on the control board around the back of the vertical assembly and wiring and then into the extruder feed mechanism. As the filament was being fed it seems that the power of the motor is too low to overcome the friction and snagging... Paul Guide it through a PTFE tube all the way? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Matt, I looked at the small indentation and placed my bet, right on target, just a bit more tape ..but now I can't hear the fan vibrate when the nozzle homes the paper, so what I have saved on a new and better fan will have to be spend on reading glasses, there's always something ;-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
The fix: It’s a question of balance enjoy the silence Hat tip to The Moody Blues and Depeche Mode ;-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
also make sure your x-axis-plate is without any curve, any difference along the x-axis will influence the print head though the bearing running on the side of the rib This can happen because of forces between the x-axis-plate and x-rib and the smooth rod, make sure that the x-axis-plate and x-rib go together freely, and the x-axis when put together is "relaxed" when you mount the smooth rod alsoby ormerod168 - Ormerod
aluminum plade bend or dented?, see johneato's comment here (top): Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 My close-up eyesight isn't too good either, and I too use a strip of paper. If there is any PLA on the end of the nozzle, I heat it to 150C first. Still, it would be nice to put an LED or three on the hotend assembly, powered from the fan supply. How about making a usb-out embedded in the print-casing on the left side and use a usb powered flexible led lamp thingie? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteRadian ....clear any filament away from the tip using one edge of the paper sheet... I find a strip of leather between my finger and the nozzle works beautifully for this, with a light pressure it takes the form of the nozzle and wipe it squeaky clean tip: if you find it too hot, use another one's finger ..and tip of the hat to KimBrown that came up with the idea Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
about bed levelling, if your hearing is ok, I zero on a peace of paper and listen to the sound of the always vibrating fan, when it changes sound I know the nozzle has made contact about lamps, I was thinking of buying one of those clip-on book reading lamps Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuotePaulHam Suggestions from someone that doesn't really know much. Check to see if you have slic3r v1 not 0.9.9 Download dc42's slic3r ini's and try again. I think you will get better prints. Experience from one that knows even less Printing the z-gear with 0.9.9 gave hollow teeth, the new version printer a perfect gear, same ini's (dc42) My install is the RepRapPro-Printrun-Slic3r.zip onby ormerod168 - Ormerod
The problem with springs is that there are so many variables, you can exclude the length by using disc springs (don't know if that is the right engrish word), just ad as many as needed ..and don't think you can buy a long spring and just cut it into shorter parts, that will not work without special spacers, the spring have to be made to length from anew Mine was made of Ø1.2 spring wire, outby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotejohneato Erik The weight is about 320 grms against the original that came in at about 110grms. So its about 3 times the weight, but when you factor in the weight of the aluminum and glass the total weight increase as a percent is far less.... John ..and you got a more solid y-axis-rib for the belt to mount on, should be no problem to raise the current for the motors a bit I was wondering aby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Bravo! - do you know the weight of your new design? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I solved my z-screw wobble with the second replacement z-driven gear I printed..... Great, but this design is so mechanically wrong, there is no reason at all to put strain on the z-screw and make it wobble - z-gear, z-driven gear and bearing should of cause be in the same horizontal level Raise the bearing as needed, about 6mm as far as I remember, redesign the z-driven gear with a dby ormerod168 - Ormerod
..but it sure looked pretty and sticked to the alu plate and glass like removable glue, and that was my cunning plan Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotealanbattersby ....Could someone also tell me what function the cardboard piece has. Is it thermal insulation or to absorb jolts etc. I ask because I am considering using some Silicone rubber I have, to cast a replacement mat for the cardboard. I thought it would be tougher but just as forgiving. Is this a good idea? Alan the cardboard piece is for thermal insulation, so silicone rubber wby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 My settings files were made for slic3r 1.0 RC2. If you load the standard Ormerod settings files in any slic3r 1.0, it warns you that the settings files are old and should be re-made from scratch. So there is some incompatibility between settings files for 1.0 and pre-1.0 slic3r, and I guess the settings files I provided may not work well with slic3r 0.9.9. I would think the safest wayby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 .....The real problem is that the back bearings are some distance from the back corner bed support points, and the MDF isn't stiff and stable enough, so it tends to sag in the back corners..... It don't have to be that way, turn the bearings mounts 180 degrees and put the rip on the other side - and the activator for the micro switch, print it as a part of the bearing mount, it so logby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Don't waste your time as so many others have done (me included) on that dammed SD card - get a new one! Att: Ian - bite the bullet (it's very crisp) and put a warning on front page! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
I have tried with strawberrie jam, was not part of my plan ..anyway, you can cross that one out from your list, only sticky on fingers :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotearnaud31 if it looks like Kapton and smells like Kapton, it usually is. Incidently I used to work in the space industry and Kapton was the only tape we used on spacecraft. It does not leave residues and withstand vacuum and radiations. Thank you, it sure smells like Kapton, spoilchokker alles kaput gewesen?, never mind, I'll take the chance and place an order Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown ...On the reset subject.... Does that clear Z0 settings? Yes no memory on wakeup, you will have to home ZXY again Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts ....I still haven't found anything better than Kapton for PLA, that is as low maintenance, long life, and sticks so well. But, by all means, try it! Ian RepRapPro tech support Agreed, Kapton tape works very well for me whilst searching for a wider format of the tape I found this sites info confusing - Kopton tape, is there such a thing? QuotePrint Bed Polyamide (Kopton) Tape (20by ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuotePaulHam Thanks ill have a go later, so I need to save the settings before exporting as gcode! I think "before exporting the gcode" would be a more correct way to put it The .ini file is what gives the program its special personality, tells it what You wan't it to do, btw, I do not know if it reads the ini on wakeup only or each time it export a gcode, for safety I do not touch any ini fileby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKimBrown I'm chuffed to bits here, as the printer has just printed the large gear sliced using DC42s settings and it's perfect.... The hex in the hole is nice and sharp, it's as good as the gear that came in the kit.... Kim Look like the cats meow, congrats! A tip to get the gear perpendicular to the screw, and to "set" the screw, it's imho important to "set" it right so the "drive thingiby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotearnaud31 ...Your printer does that because RepRap standard slic3r settings do not use relative E distance but in fact absolute E distance. Do I misunderstand something ? from:Ormerod-master.zip\Ormerod-master\Slic3r-settings\printer: bed_size = 200,200 end_gcode = G1 X2 Y190; park the machine\nM0; stop extruder_offset = 0x0 gcode_flavor = reprap layer_gcode = nozzle_diameter = 0.5 print_by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote3D-ES ...I am trying to search on the forum for the word 'fan' but it's probably too short for the search mechanism. I hope the part number of the fan is not a trade secret...? Try this thread - I think there is something in there and a link to a better one (at work, not much time, sorry) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteGregL Cannot see where G31 is explained in the Commisioning process. Greg Quote....Next send a G31 command. This fires the Z probe and reports the measurement it makes in the Serial Monitor window. The measurement should be about 950 or so. (What’s going on? The Z probe works by reflected IR light. The closer it gets to the aluminium the more light is reflected, and this sends back aby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotevictors 5) I still need to build something to help me level the bed. I got some longer screws. Will come up with something simple I hope. my bed rest on 3 points, have springs under two of them, fast and easy to adjust, shorter screws in the two front corners so not to drag in the holes in the mdf downunder <------ spring Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod