I´ll try it. I trying to build a insulator for the 2 noozle heatsink aluminium block. But it is very tricky because the walls on the holes are so thin..... 2 tries.... 2 breaking boards....by muggi - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I've updated the Duet+X4 and 1/2 nozzle mount designs at . The Duet+X4 enclosure now has stronger mounting pillars and access holes for the X4 power terminal screws. The 1-or-2 nozzle mount now has a 'long' option to make it easier to get started with ABS printing, as described by Ludo91 here . Hi David, for the long noozle mount i think we need a lower "sensorpad-diff-led.stl". Canby muggi - Ormerod
Hi, i search for a better insulator for my hot end and think i will make a insulator from a 5mmm PTFE plate. Is PTFE a better insulator for mounting between the aluminium cooling block and the noozle mount? greetingsby muggi - Ormerod
Hi David, 1. What have you set the active and standby temperatures of the extruders to? Yes, i Have this in my custom start g-code section: ; layer_height = M563 S1 G10 P1 R150 G10 P2 R150 2. Are you sure you have the tpost1.g and tpost2.g files in the /sys directory of the SD card? Yes 3. If you connect via Pronterface (as well as the web interface, if that is what you normally use), doesby muggi - Ormerod
Hi David , can you please Upload a zipped Version of your Sys files? I will check my settings iat monday morning and want to compare my files with yours...by muggi - Ormerod
Hi to all, i now finished modding my printer to a dual-tall-merod.... a small test print with one noozle works fine.... all test without printing looks good. so i wanted to print the traffic cone, but on the tool change- the printer doesn´t wait until the printing temperature is reached. in my tpost1.g and tpost2.g i have added the wait command, but it dousnt wait.... ; tpost1.g ; Put Gby muggi - Ormerod
Hi dave, what about this parts as a aluminium version? y-axis-end-plate y-cross-rib y-rib So all my mdf parts are replaced......by muggi - Ormerod
hi i have a steel 10.9 rod.....the company i´m working sells them..... it´s very good. Think also a A2 maybe is good. But A2 is only the outside of the rod. in the rod it is only normal 8.8 steel.by muggi - Ormerod
Maybe your filament Nerds More temp. Actually i use inofill 3D pla. It is a high quality pla and it needs First 205 other layers 200 degrees. With this filament i also have Problems if i print it with lower tempsby muggi - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quotemuggi Hi dc42, feature sugestion: how about a funtion to download the actual config files via the web interface? greetings You can already do that - the config folder dropbox is on the righthand tab (not got the Ormerod browser available right now, I think the tab is marked "settings"?) Dave (#106) hi dmould, there is only a upload function. may question was about downloadby muggi - Ormerod
congrats appjaws1 what is this thing between deut enclosure and ze z-axis on your picture?by muggi - Ormerod
Cool Big thanks... Which Parts are competed designed ( to slowly Start printing)by muggi - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Quotecarlosgs Hi Muggi, sorry but I don't know european sellers (I bought the spindle from China through eBay). But the newer version will be using a Dremel 200 spindle, which is air-cooled and doesn't require an additional 48V power supply. Regards, Carlos cool dremel we can get everywhere..... where do i find the newer version?by muggi - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
hi maybe a broken gcode file?by muggi - Ormerod
Hi dc42, in the 078 firmware is ATX power on/off (M80 and M81 ATX power on/off commands are supported) supported. How can i use this? If i send M81 manually, the ormerod atx is till powered on. Greetingsby muggi - Ormerod
Hi dc42, feature sugestion: how about a funtion to download the actual config files via the web interface? greetingsby muggi - Ormerod
Hi, your extrution withs are very strange. I think you should try to use the defalt slicer settings (download over git) form reprappro.by muggi - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I considered mounting the X4 next to the Duet like that, but I didn't like the idea of having such a tall enclosure, or cables going to the top of it. So I've taken bobtidey's enclosure design here and adapted it to accommodate the Duet and X4 boards back-to-back. I will attach the cables to the X4 first, using the screw terminals to keep the profile low, then fit the X4 to the encloby muggi - Ormerod
Quoteappjaws1 Well I am well on my way to 2 nozzle printing. I have just finished assembling the hot-end. It was a bit fiddly because you can't follow the on-line instructions for the ormerod hot end because you can't rotate the heater blocks. So to fit, you have to fit the nozzle onto the block and screw it down so that you can screw the nozzle into the aluminium cooling block whilst keepingby muggi - Ormerod
Quoteappjaws1 I've just finished installing the boards into my new printed enclosure and was just about to put all the connections back when I realised that I didn't mark the connection for the blue and white sensor cables. I need to connect the white wire to the pin marked AD14 and the blue wire to AD12 on the X4 board, so I have connected a ribbon cable to the X4 board and intend to use the otby muggi - Ormerod
hi zombiepantslol, i can give it an try. but before i will try a few prints with a current setting of 1000 for the extruder. Maybe this are missing steps. A view prints before, i need to re-adjust my spring loaded extruder because the hobbed insert had to much pressure and transported no filament for 1 minute during the print. Because i need two of them, i printed the same peace with the samby muggi - Ormerod
Hi, After a few prints i See the thurd print wuth missing a Part of an Layer ... So now i have to find the Problem ... Nozzle , extruder, extruder missing Steps. I print the Part with 120% extrution (web interface). Using 078d and web 0.98. Any advice?by muggi - Ormerod
Hi, does someone know where to by a spindle for the cyclone cnc within europe? greetingsby muggi - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Hi, to build the Y-cable (from power supply to duet and duex4) i will use this: https://eshop.wago.com/JPBC/0_5StartPage.jsp;jsessionid=C3E455AE1073F1767D4DD952BD746726?zone=6by muggi - Ormerod
Hi Sardi, it is only a lacy-fast try of the new special plate. so i can easy roll back if i have any issues. Also i use dave´s triangle bed plate, and without the original heat spreader the pcb maybe isn´t plane. After 8 hours of printing: no problems...... the pla sticks well, after cooling down it "jumps" from the bed, and nothing to clean!by muggi - Ormerod
Quotejstck 2.5mm2 loudspeaker cable should do nicely. Only issue is they usually have such fine strands that it might be difficult to get them all inside the screw terminals. Stray strands = dangerous. i will coat it with tin with a solder iron to avoid this. thanks for the helpby muggi - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Quotejstck The cable to power the whole Duet board though, I would go with as thick a cable as you can fit in the screw terminals. That cable needs to carry a lot more current, and any voltage drops there will have more impact. Mostly it will just make the heated bed heat up slower, but the changes in voltage (which will happen when heaters turn on and off) might have some effect on theby muggi - Ormerod
Quotejstck 0.4mm is on the low side on what most people would recommend for a 40W heater. That equates to a bit over 3 amps in a 0.125mm2 cable. I don't think any voltage drop over the cable would be a problem (it is a short run of cable, and the hotend heater has plenty of power to do what it needs to) though, the critical point would be the connectors or solder joints. If those have a poor surfby muggi - Ormerod
So my cables at home with a 0.4mm diameter are ok to use with the motor / hotend / fan for extension the existing cables?by muggi - Ormerod