Sure. Most reprap printers have flat connectors but there are some that come with the keyed connectors. Just make sure you have no power going to the printer when you flip it.by Floyd - General
Easy way is just to flip the connector 180 and plug it back in if you can (WITHOUT POWER ON!) Otherwise you have to flip the direction in the firmware.by Floyd - General
Try running an auto PID tune on the hot end Make sure you dont have a fan pointed at the bottom of the hot end directly cooling the block.by Floyd - Printing
Zsteps are way off if you told it to move 20mm and it moved 125mmby Floyd - Printing
razor blade is what id use.by Floyd - Printing
In Cura there was maybe 4-6 speed settings that I had to set to 1mm/sec. Also you could just manually edit the code to drop the feedrate then run it.by Floyd - General
Yea it was odd seeing the printer going that slow.by Floyd - General
Not sure what slicer software your using but it was real easy to set to 1mm/sec in Cura. From there I used the LCD knob to lower the speed even more.by Floyd - General
Results. I just got my i3 to a PAINFULLY slow .25mm/sec So yes its possible to get that slow. It was so slow in fact that I had to look very close to see any movement in the belts.by Floyd - General
Looks like the tension is too tight on the extruder wheel.by Floyd - Printing
I can try tonight to see how slow I can run my i3 with Marlin RC8. Ill try for 1mm/sec and see if it works.by Floyd - General
Honestly im not sure. Most people would cringe moving at those speeds. What material are you trying to print? I cant think of a single material that would need speeds that low.by Floyd - General
Id toss a TRUE E3D V6 lite on there.by Floyd - Printing
Why would you want to go slower than ~3mm/sec? Thats insanely slow.by Floyd - General
Mine works fine in RC8by Floyd - General
Lets see some testing results! Also .4mm layers with a .4mm nozzle is insane! General rule of thumb is never go more than 80% the nozzle diameter for layer height. With my .4mm nozzle .3mm is my fast and dirty mode and .1mm and .2mm layers are for better models.by Floyd - Firmware - Marlin
Straight from the article... "At this point in time the practical answer to the “will I get better/faster prints from a 0.9 degree stepper” is no." Most people run 1.8deg without issue.by Floyd - Reprappers
Check print speed in the slicer. Most people run from 30-60mm/sec anything lower than 30 is fairly lowby Floyd - General
After a print I retract 1mm and let it cool down to room temp. This is with ABS but ive done the same with PLA before. Retracting 20mm is probably whats screwing you up and making jams.by Floyd - Printing
Quoteoap70 running Solidworks since 2000 (still using!!!) Oh please no! Im a designer and there are LOADS of new better stuff in 2016 and 2017 versions! Personally just about any i3 should fit the bill.by Floyd - General
With a .4 nozzle you should be printing more like .2mm layers for better quality. Also 230c is really hot for most PLA. Thats ABS temps. Try 200-210 and see if it improves. Do you also have a part cooling fan for your PLA?by Floyd - Firmware - Marlin
Turn one at a time to level them. If they are going out of level over time then your motors must be missing steps.by Floyd - Reprappers
You get what you pay for. Cheap 200-300 dollars printers wont last and might someday get you a so-so print. Save up and get a good quality printer, the market is FLOODED with cheap printers praying on people with tight budgets.by Floyd - General
I have the front left as 0,0 on my i3by Floyd - Firmware - Marlin
The hex might be there to hold the heater in the hot end. The nozzle just unscrews from the bottom.by Floyd - General
Good luck. Not sure why someone would want a printer like this? Buy a big printer if you need it.by Floyd - General
Just add it into the slicer start gcode and flash to your hearts content and it wont matter. This is normally how people do it.by Floyd - Firmware - Marlin
Ive always had issues with auto level and offset with every print. I just ran the probe repeat and got this: SENDING:M48 P4 X100 Y100 V4 M48 Z-Probe Repeatability Test Positioning the probe... Bed X: 100.000 Y: 100.000 Z: 5.692 1 of 4: z: 5.693 mean: 5.6926 sigma: 0.000000 min: 5.693 max: 5.693 range: 0.000 2 of 4: z: 5.693 mean: 5.6926 sigma: 0.000000 min: 5.693 max: 5.693 range: 0.000 3 of 4:by Floyd - Firmware - Marlin
Looks like your printing too high for the first layers and maybe the rest of the layers. What is your nozzle size? What is your layer height?by Floyd - Printing
I know in Pronterface you hit home x and the axis moves towards the endstop and stops when it hits. This also zeros the axis for printing. If its not moving when you home then something else must be messed up.by Floyd - Reprappers