I have a 80mm fan blowing my RAMPS board and my E3D V5 has a blowing fan on the heatsink also.by Floyd - General
QuoteChrisT88I'm located in the Florida. Good luck with the endeavor! Hiya from a fellow FL guy. (Pensacola here)by Floyd - General
Cant hurt to check. Im running Windows 10 and Cura 2.4 with no issues other than PLA growing pains. Ive ran nothing but ABS for years so PLA is another animal.by Floyd - Printing
I dont have this problem in Cura. I use the new 2.4 version.by Floyd - Printing
if you use .4mm layers with a .4mm nozzle then you are going to have horrible prints. If you have a .4mm nozzle try .2 or .3 layers.by Floyd - Reprappers
If you have 3mm filament make sure cura is set to that diameter in the settings. It defaults to 1.75mm Ive had this happen to me a few times with software updates.by Floyd - Firmware - Marlin
Id like to know also. I just loaded up my first roll of PLA ever after using ABS for years and im having the same issues. Using Esun PLA plus black. Genuine E3D V5 hot end at 210c bed at 60cby Floyd - Printing
Check the retract settings in Cura. Default is set fairly high from what I remember. Something like 5-7mm on retracts. I have a Wades extruder and my retract is .5mm if I remember right.by Floyd - Printing
QuoteGRAYWOLF Go Back to PLA, ABS is a pain. Just takes a good setup. I only print in ABS. Then again when I tried PLA a little last year it was easier by a noticeable amount. Still I like my strong ABS prints.by Floyd - Reprappers
No print fan on and make the ABS run hot. I print most of my ABS at 240c.by Floyd - Reprappers
Thats the only issue. Once you get that large and that fast you have to be able to properly heat the plastic that fast as its shooting out the tip.by Floyd - General
For what its worth I have a spool of white ABS on my printer right now that I print at 240c also like a dream without discoloring. I print it at 40mm/secby Floyd - Printing
Most people have issues with a 200x200 bed. Good luck for a first time build unless you have a mountain of money to back this up.by Floyd - Reprappers
QuoteDOYTSo, let me explain to you guys how I solved the first problem. I know that for many of you this is obvious but for many beginners this is a real issue. If you want to set the speed of a specific axes, first you should know that the speed you set in firmware is different from that one in your host(Repetier in my case) and it's different from the speed set in LCD. When you set the speed onby Floyd - Firmware - Marlin
I dont know there because I dont use repetier. Maybe try using Pronterface and see if its the same.by Floyd - Firmware - Marlin
Try another slicer like Cura and see. Sometimes Slic3r just doesnt work well with some files.by Floyd - Printing
What is the max temp setup for in your firmware? If its close to what your heating too it will trip it everytime. If you heating to 215c and the limit is 220c then you will fail everytime. I have my max setup to be about 50c more than my ABS temps of 240c. If the axis is slow then speed it up in the firmware. Too fast and the motors will stall and scream at you. Also keep the acceleration down oby Floyd - Firmware - Marlin
It looks like a bit of over thinking on this. The Z axis looks solid so test it out with some prints and go from there.by Floyd - CoreXY Machines
My bet is still the thermistor. When you start up the printer what temp does it read? It should be room temp ~25c?by Floyd - Reprappers
QuoteRoger123DAnd filament diameter 1.75 or 3 I use nothing but 3mm and I can tell you that none of them are 3mm. More like 2.85mm Measure the filament for the slicer.by Floyd - Printing
If your printing PLA it looks like a temp issue (matte to glossy)by Floyd - Printing
Change the infill % in the slicer settings. I normally print my ABS with about 20-60% infill because I print parts that are used.by Floyd - Reprappers
When it homes the Z axis it goes down right? Not sure why it would be advancing down instead of up. When you jog the machine manually with software does going Z+ make the nozzle rise?by Floyd - General
Take a look at the thermistor on the hot end. It sounds like the wires might be touching and tossing the reading out the door. They should not be touching each other or anything metal.by Floyd - Reprappers
Hate to say it but I dont think you will get much help. You get what you pay for. Its a cheap printer with a non-common board that no one really knows about.by Floyd - Reprappers
You need to get the latest firmware from the github page and use the arduino software to configure and upload it to your board.by Floyd - Printing
looks like your underextruding to me. Have you done a calibration on the extruder?by Floyd - Printing
Just for E (extruder) Again... Cura has NOTHING to do with firmware. Cura just slices the file you want to print. Firmware is what is loaded onto your controller board and that has all the parameters on how to behave.by Floyd - Printing
I bet he didnt look at the start Gcode in Cura. Agreed, post the first part of the gcode file with the setup info. I bet you have a move command in there. I believe Cura default is G28 X Y G28 Z G1 Z15 If you motor steps per mm are off then it might cause the Z axis to move very fast like that.by Floyd - Printing
Yes the limit switch is also called an endstop.by Floyd - General