Yeah, thought about this a bit. I decided to move the Z motor to the bottom. I Redesigned Jerry's HD threaded Z axis to offset it vertically to clear everything. Hopefully it works. I'll print it out tomorrow.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
That's pretty cool Olaf... None of my pets seem to care...by madmike8 - Reprappers
I use bronze bushings on all axis. Cartesian style printer. No chatter, but the axis are light weight. I can't give you an answer on wear yet, it's only on it's 4th spool.by madmike8 - General
Test fit, it went together well. I'm going to mount the Z axis motor on top, and try to keep all the electronics up top. I think I need to rethink the motor placement though...by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I want to work with teacup, and the new config tool. I plan to try it on an Uno and a V3 Engraver board I have laying around. I ordered some Sevenswitch PCB's that I will try to make work for the hotend. No heatbed since I will use PLA only.by madmike8 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I'm in the U.S. so I used 3/8" rods and oilite bronze bushings. They can be purchased through Fastenal.com or Servocity.com for fairly cheap. Fastenal - Bronze Flanged Sleeve Bearings Servocity - bronze bushings And I made a remix where I made bronze bushings to LM10UU adapters. The open scad file can be found there and adjusted to your needs. Thingiverse Funbot U.S. 3/8" versionby madmike8 - Look what I made!
Well, if it prints right at 160 steps... just leave it there... no sense worrying over it... That sux on the build volume though...by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I use bronze bushings on Funbot #1, love them.by madmike8 - Look what I made!
Shouldn't this be in the for sale section?by madmike8 - Reprappers
Which stepper drivers are you using? 4988 or 8825? microstep settings in firmware vs jumper settings on board?by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Half scale could be because your RAMPS board has the stepper drivers set one way and your firmware set another. Make sure they are both the same.by madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
By chance, have you checked the baud rate for the firmware and RH to make sure they set the same?by madmike8 - Reprappers
Catching up on some progress here. I got Djinn's version parts printed. I'm using 5/16" rods and bronze bushings. I got the upper box assembled, think I might extend the X axis length some. I might use these for the lower box.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Can you please stay on topic... Slicers... There are plenty of other forums for this kind of debate...by madmike8 - Reprappers
The printer functions fine without an LCD, but must be connected to a computer/octopi for it to run. The LCD mainly just lets you print without a computer connected through the SD card.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Move the extruder to the center of the wall and shorten the Bowden tube as much as possible. Try to remove any un-needed twist. In Slic3r Check Avoid crossing perimeters. Check Only retract when Crossing Perimeters.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Huh? If your plastic skull plate is cracking, you might want to have that looked at...by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I really don't recommend the Cherry $60 printer as your first printer. It hasn't been tested, or the kinks worked out. Either of the Smartraps have, and they both work good. The Cherry $60 printer uses all the same hardware (RAMPS/Rods/Bearings/Belts/Pulleys/Stepper Drivers/Bowden Tube/Hotend) except for the steppers that the Smartrap uses. So, wouldn't you want to go ahead and get the right steby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
On the cheap stepper printer front, I saw this today. Cherry 3D Printer I don't think I'd try it till I saw a video of it printing though... Still requires a Nema 17 for the extruder...by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I think they would be way too weak except for something extremely small and light. Search $60 waste printer on instructables. You might find some good Nema17 steppers from older large printers and things.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I use Slic3r, and it took me a bit to get it tuned to my printer. I haven't really had an issue for what I print since then. I've tried Cura, but I'm lazy, and didn't want to put in the work to tune it to my printer since Slic3r already works well. The same with Kisslicer Pro which I paid for. Someday I'll make a effort to get them both working well... Till then, I'll waste my time printing thiby madmike8 - Reprappers
http://smartfriendz.com/en/3-3d-printers If your in Europe, you may be able to purchase parts directly from Smartfriends. If your in the US, maybe we can help you out.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
This will get you to RCJose's stuff https://smartrapbuild.wordpress.comby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
The only things that should change is the space for the wood and the rod size. Bigger machine just means longer rods and bigger box...by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I think, if you have the box building skills, the Core is probably the way to go. but both a pretty good.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Are you looking to build the Smartrap or the SmartrapCore? Look for post from RCJose, He does some excellent guides on either one... plus videos... Whichever control board (RAMPS,MKS,Azteeg,etc...) you get is capable of controlling the hotend temperature. It uses a thermister in the hotend to measure the temperature and regulate it to whatever the gcode tells it to. There is another thermisterby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
I'm not sure, but take a look at the encoder wiring Here (LINK) . It might be helpful.by madmike8 - Tantillus
You could wire them in series for NC, so that which ever endstop would hit would stop it. I'm not even sure if Marlin supports 2 min endstops anyways?by madmike8 - RAMPS Electronics