3 seconds in google got me this.. not sure how well any of them work http://www.marlinfirmware.org/configurator/ http://marlinkimbra.it/ http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/by madmike8 - General
With the Cherry Printer your only saving the cost of 3 stepper motors. It uses the same controller, drivers, endstops, rods, and bearings as a bigger printer. My favorite cheap diy printer right now is the Funbot (link). Build it without display to save money. I've built 2.by madmike8 - General New Machines Topics
I've had good luck with Esun through Hobbykings USA warehouse.by madmike8 - General
What size build area? Cartesian? Funbotby madmike8 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
On build #1, My build area is set as 165X x 165Y x 130Z with v1 parts (it's actually a bit bigger, but that's what I have it set at.). On build #2 with v2 parts, I extended the Y by using the full rod length. I got 170X x 180Y x 140Z. Both builds use 12" rods. As long as you use a Bowden system, so there isn't a lot of weight hanging on the X axis. Use rods instead of the tubes I used. I think yoby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Probably should work something up where it sends the GCode to the SD card and then remotely starts the print from the SD card.by madmike8 - Developers
Oh, forgot to answer the stepper question. It uses 1 NEMA 17 per Axis plus one for the Extruder, so 4 Nema17 steppers in total.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
The first post in this thread has the Thingiverse links to all the STL's. On the first page is also a BOM. Cliff who designed the Funbot uses a Direct drive extruder. I prefer the Bowden setup, and my remix mainly is to that end along with Bronze bushing adapters. I definately recommend the bronze bushings. You can get them through Servocity.com, Fastenal.com, or EBay. I used 7x 12" length rodsby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Well, I finally got #2 up and printing. Feels good to get some of these back logged projects finished up. Everything is working well, but I don't like the PLA Bushings as well as I like the Bronze Bushings in #1. I might change those out in the future.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
There is a Safety section with some really good information. Fire is a real fear with these DIY printers, so be careful and watchful.by madmike8 - General
If layers are shifting, then maybe check to see if the thread is slipping.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Look at this. Mostly Printed CNC / Multitool Pretty much has what your asking.by madmike8 - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I'm not sure most of the problems are from the kits themselves, but rather from completely inexperienced people building them. Nothing wrong with that either, as I see them asking and learning as they go, and helping others along the way.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Would you mind taking a good picture of your ramps wiring? Maybe we can see an issue.by madmike8 - Reprappers
I saved his files as OpenSCAD, and adjusted them how I needed them.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Hope that helps It looks like on your old steppers Green/Yellow are a pair and Red/Grey are a pair. On you new Stepper Blue/Red are a pair and Black/Green are a pair.by madmike8 - Mechanics
Smartcore is a very similar machine. Some of the same kind of issues. Mandrav converted his to use two Z axis, which might help you to. mandrav's SmartCore build Link RCJose did too.. My SMartRapCore Build Linkby madmike8 - CoreXY Machines
Any prints with it yet, Yiannis?by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Based on this post, I changed the name from hotend to extruder. QuoteTraumflug Thanks. I think it's about time to add one or two of these Nano/Uno based setups to the distribution, so I looked into it. One thing I found is, you name the extruder "hotend", which requires adding a P0 to each M104 and gives a slightly different answer text on M105. Renaming this to "extruder" would fix this. "extrby madmike8 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
QuoteTraumflug Quotemadmike8 I'm working towards using an Uno with a CNC shield V3. Here's where I'm at right now. Still untested. you can download it and use it as a bases for yours. just copy it to the config folder. Thanks. I think it's about time to add one or two of these Nano/Uno based setups to the distribution, so I looked into it. One thing I found is, you name the extruder "hotend",by madmike8 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
http://lbmakersociety.org/2012/12/creating-hacking-a-reprap-power-supply-for-ramps/by madmike8 - Reprappers
Yeah, but you think dentist are digital... If you print a printer and then put in the time to get accurate prints, and then print another... You get another accurate printer. Last I checked .1mm is still .1mm...by madmike8 - General
I'm working towards using an Uno with a CNC shield V3. Here's where I'm at right now. Still untested. you can download it and use it as a bases for yours. just copy it to the config folder.by madmike8 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Very Cool. I'm liking the extrusions. Very nice job! I've been trying to figure out a clip over the beam Z axis from Jerry's file, but I haven't gotten it nailed down yet.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Thanks! I'm going to give it a try tonight.by madmike8 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Here's where I've gotten so far in the configtool. board.CNC_Shield_V3_UNO.h is attached at the bottom. I'm using AIO2 (UNO) / Resume (CNC Shield) for the Hotend Seven Switch Connection, and AIO3 (UNO) / Coolant En (CNC Shield) for the thermistor I had to manually set the CPU by editing the board file. It would be nice is all the CPU's were listed. Does the CPU part look right? /***by madmike8 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I use one. Works Good. We had a few USFF Dells that were being trashed at work, so I grabbed a few PS's.by madmike8 - Reprappers
I like the cheap LM8UU's over Printed bearings. I might have gotten lucky with my cheap LM8UU's, as they've held up pretty well. The printed bushings took a bit of break-in to get to slide smoothly, then got pretty loose pretty fast... I like bronze bushings over cheap LM8UU's.by madmike8 - Reprappers