I print with glue stick, so not much help there... I just really wanted to thank you for your designs... Especially the capo... Thanks!by madmike8 - General
Honestly thinking about deep sixing this project. I'm not sure if it will be any better than the Smartrap I pulled the parts from. I like the Funbot so much, it's hard to build something less... If I was good enough at the CAD stuff to convert the Funbot to 8mm rods, I don't think I'd make anything else. Besides I still have the Smartrap Core and Rostock to complete.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Can you send files to the printer from the computer to print? Or are you using the SD card? The reason I ask is, if you can send files to the printer your usb is fine. I've seem sometimes that newbies forget to disconnect their host (Ponterface or Repetier) from the printer before trying to upload new firmware.by madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
SteveRoy is right. M119 is your friend, and the most overlooked part from the newcomers. Get your endstops configured correctly first. Then stepper direction in 1mm moves. Then home direction (be ready to stop it if it heads off in the wrong direction.) get your bed leveled, then get your Z endstop set accurately. Once it's mechanically where you want it to be, then test your heaters and thermisby madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
I printed the Benchy on Funbot #1 today. I used .3 layer height, .4 nozzle, and Esun PLA. It came out pretty good. It looks even better in person, crappy camera and poor office lighting.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Some light reading for you. Specifically Z Steps I'm not sure what your kit uses as on the Z axis? M8 threaded rod or some kind of lead screw? Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guideby madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks like your steps per mm is off on the Z axis. It's about half of what it needs to be (10mm versus the 20mm it should have printed). My guess is the micro steps for the driver is set wrong, remember to unplug all power before you verify that. Are you using 8825 stepper drivers by chance?by madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
I couldn't find your cones to print, but here's a benchy on a sub $200 printer. .4 nozzle .3 layer height. Actually looks better in person, but crappy old iPad camera in bad office lighting is the best I have at the moment. I don't own a microscope... Sorry... The Printer is a Funbot. With 4 point bed leveling (I agree 3 point is better, and what I used on the second one I built.). No autoby madmike8 - Reprappers
I think they started as a Ebay business... That's S.O.P. for most of them. Give them a Tracking Number, and let'em wait.by madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
Remember a lead acid car battery vents. You might want a sealed battery.by madmike8 - Reprappers
That's great and grand, but I've never have had a problem with your work or your goals... I applaud your efforts... The only issue I have is that you call everybody's stuff that is not up to your standards awful and horrible.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Lol, ok if your axis were homed then all your Min endstops should be triggered, but your Max should not, and they will need to be inverted or disabled.by madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
I drilled out the X and Y axis to accept 5/16" tubes. I used bronze bushings for those. I kept the 8mm rods for the Z axis, and used the rods and bearings from my old Smartrap. It goes together pretty quick. Only 18 printed parts for the stock MC2. I will have a few more since I'm using the bushings, and will make a custom holder for the Arduino Uno.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Ok shaol, your going to have to edit your configuration.h. You need to invert your endstop logic. It's not hard. Google it. You need to learn this stuff anyways, if you didn't want to learn how all this works you probably should have bought a Davinci or something instead of a kit. Your close, you just need to work out some kinks to get it printing. It might be a bit outside of your comfort zoneby madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
For PLA, I use ESun from the Hobbyking.com US Warehouse. It seems to work good around 175-180C. Just got 3 rolls shipped for $45 total.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
OK, first suggestions. Use M119 to check your endstops first. Make sure they are functioning as intended. Then check step direction by moving an axis 1mm, and see if it responds correctly. Next check home direction (be ready to power off if it heads off away from the endstop!), and see if it responds correctly. Once you have these sorted, your ready to move on. On your heatbed. First see if yourby madmike8 - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been using a 220W 18A 12V Dell USFF DA-2 Power Brick on one of my Funbot Printers. It uses a MK3 Heatbed and a 40W Hotend Cartridge. I only use it for PLA printing, so Bed isn't heated over 60C for extended times. I have heated it to 90C as a test though. I'm not sure how long it will hold up, but it's been running for a few months now. It is quiet though...by madmike8 - Reprappers
I had gotten my old Smartrap back from my brother when I gave him the updated Ordbot, so what to do with it? It needed a few repairs to get back running. I was about to start working on it when I ran across the MC2 3D Printer on Thingiverse. MC2 3D Printer Thingiverse Link So... I stripped down the old Smartrap to it bones to rebuild as a MC2. Anyone want some old Smartrap plastic? I sby madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Quotethe_digital_dentist I don't think it's OCD to want to be able to produce prints with high quality surface finish, to print precision parts that fit together with very close tolerances, and to do that without a lot of preparatory messing around. If you had an inkjet printer and its color registration wasn't perfect you'd consider it a piece of junk. Why accept any less quality in a 3D printby madmike8 - Reprappers
Geez dude... It's not awful... Maybe not as perfect as *You* like, but not bad either... I choose not to live my life in your OCD world. If it's the same mechanics, you just change the pins.h for your board so that the E1 uses the same pins as Z.by madmike8 - Reprappers
Thanks for your work!by madmike8 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
If it's at the beginning or end of the print, then simply put the GCode in the beginning/end GCode in your slicer. Easy enough to move and use the servo without anything special.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap
Maybe they make mirrored sets for dual extruder setups, and you got the mirrored half?by madmike8 - Mechanics
Do you have a heatbed? is the Thermistor configured in Marlin? Is it connected to the right pins? Also for your hotend thermistor. Do you have any other Thermistors configured in Marlin?by madmike8 - RAMPS Electronics
I have used a dremel with a cutoff wheel. clamp the dremel down and then rotate the rod on the cutting wheel.by madmike8 - General
Well, what's your problem? Is it the printer, the firmware, the connection? Give us an idea...by madmike8 - Reprappers
Bad MOSFET maybe? Have you checked D8 for 12v? Does the led light up?by madmike8 - General Mendel Topics
It would be worth it in my opinion, for SD card transfer. Face it, on a 3 hour print... What's an extra minute? So if I can have my printer in another room. Load the stl to the SD card on the printer and remotely start print... Yeah... I'll take a bit slow... Yeah I know there's octoprint and the likes... Or duets... But if a $5 card can do it... I'll do that.by madmike8 - Developers
I used a 8x10 picture frame glass on my original Smartrap. I'm not sure I would try much larger than that. You might could add an extra Y support bearing for it. Your just gonna just give it a go, and see how it works.by madmike8 - Smart_Rap