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Safety...
He wants to obtain the sensor, not be told how to install it.
I suggest you ask Ian or Jean-Marc on IRC. If the printer is open source then they shouldn't have an issue giving you the source and part number.
by
ajayre
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General
QuoteFilamomentous
Interesting. I based the prices off of Faberdashery's (with some adjustments for more expensive filaments) since that's a business people seem to like (at least the ones I've talked to about it).
I've ordered plenty of filament from them but largely stopped. The main reason: I became tired of spooling it myself. Also RepRapper filament seems just as good quality to me.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
At work I use my Mendel to create things like PCB board mounts, blanking plates for electrical connectors and cases for custom test wiring.
by
ajayre
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General
It depends on what you are doing. I produced a batch of 11 identical parts for work. All printed on the first attempt. They all do the job. Boss is happy. They all had the necessary accuracy. And my RepRap is certainly not highly tuned.
I think there is a difference between accuracy and repeatability.
by
ajayre
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General
In the UK we have the "Sale of Goods Act 1979" which states that a product must be fit for purpose. This lasts for six years, but there is a catch. Within the first six months the onus is on the supplier to prove the item was not defective when supplied. After the six months the onus is on the buyer to prove the item was defective when supplied.
For kits I would *guess* that this would only appl
by
ajayre
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General
Perhaps what is needed is a website which explains 3D printing and allows charities/non-profits to post specific requests. Then anyone with a 3D printer can "accept" a request and contact the charity to complete it.
Building such a site is technically easy. The difficult part is the networker/evangelist who can spend the considerable time needed to raise awareness among charities.
Also I think
by
ajayre
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General
If my local RSPCA office needed things designing and printing that could help them I would be more than happy to do it. That way they don't need the hassle of operating a 3D printer.
So, Sean, is there a discussion inside the RSPCA of the benefits of 3D printing to the organization? Is there a contact person who is driving this request? What specifically has your local branch already requested t
by
ajayre
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General
Quotebobc
I do have a Kraken, and would be happy to share experiences
What slicer are you using?
Does it generate a wipe tower automatically?
How are the nozzles primed before a print?
What does your tool change g-code look like?
How are the hotends leveled?
Are you using AMFs with the Slicer or only STLs? If STLs how are they aligned relative to each other?
Thanks, Andy
by
ajayre
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General
In the last three days alone there have been many new postings that interest me. A selection:
- bracket to attach a camera to a rearview mirror - fits nicely with my occasional hobby of creating timelapses
- set of mini storage drawers - nice gift idea for my wife for her craft room. Should be easy to customize it for her.
- printable omniwheel robot - never tried omniwheels, looks interes
by
ajayre
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General
QuoteCraigRK
Have you thought of offering a bounty? ( Reprap Bounties ) That way the whole community continues to benefit...
You would have thought that the companies selling repraps with multiple heads would have money to invest in slicer development to make sure their products are well supported... And yes, I have tried Cura but also had problems.
QuoteCraigRK
Sounds interesting, I'm not r
by
ajayre
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General
I have a RRP tricolor mendel and I've pretty much given up with multicolor printing for now. I've had three hotends on my machine for nearly a year now...
* The leveling of the three nozzles is a pain. Slightly different hotend construction means different Z adjustments and the RRP method of attaching the hotends seems hokey. In general the nozzles end up angled inwards for me. I asked RRP how t
by
ajayre
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General
The following pictures are from the chest and arms of this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:170730
Whenever a vertical edge is printed there is a ridge produced - kind of like the edge sticks out a bit further. Any hints on what Slic3r settings or printer adjustments I should make to fix this?
I have a Prusa Mendel (RRP tricolor), Slic3r 1.0.0RC1, 1.75mm PLA.
Thanks, Andy
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ajayre
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General
Quotepocketmoon
Quoteajayre
I'm interested to know who is supplying the RS filament:
Andy
at £100 a kilo it sounds a bit rich for me!
Yes, I am guessing it is Faberdashery.
by
ajayre
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Ormerod
I'm interested to know who is supplying the RS filament:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/3d-printer-filament/7933525/?origin=PSF_482329|acc
Andy
by
ajayre
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Ormerod
Use Kapton tape to attach the glass to the aluminium heat spreader.
by
ajayre
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Reprappers
For anyone in the UK, this is where I have twice bought Kapton/Polymide tape: http://themaskingshop.co.uk/detail.asp?catID=12a. Quick shipping and reliable.
I use the 20mm kind on my print bed. I change it only when it gets ripped by accident. I think the reel will last me at least a year if not longer.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
Set Slic3r to print a skirt the same height at the object with loops = extruders + 1. E.g. if you have three extruders use four loops on the skirt. The nozzles will be wiped when they pass over the skirt.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
After several hours of printing I see only one real difference between this PLA and Faberdashery PLA.
With this PLA I must clean the build surface with acetone after every print.
With Faberdashery PLA I can clean it after every five to 10 prints.
Not a big deal for me. It could be that this PLA needs a slightly different temperature to Faberdashery PLA, but I don't have the time to experiment
by
ajayre
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General
Have you tried printing a smooth hole then using a tap set to create the threads?
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
The 1.75mm PLA I received last week was not shrink wrapped.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
Please post back how well it prints.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
I've just placed an order for 1.75mm PLA with them. Faberdashery were out of stock with the color I wanted for the next two weeks(!) and they have raised their prices. I hope it works well as I'm tired of Faberdashery prices and having to spool it myself.
Andy
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ajayre
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General
tleneel Wrote:
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> I've tried quite a few printers, and $1300 US is
> cheap for a printer. If you want something that
> works every time you press print you need to spend
> at least $3,000 US.
My RRP Mendel kit cost $700 and after climbing the learning curve I now am confident it will work every time I start a print, and has done
by
ajayre
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General
Some people enjoy building and fiddling with 3D printers.
Some people enjoy download and printing other people's objects.
Some people enjoy designing their own objects.
Some people enjoy two or three of the above!
Everyone has their own idea of fun. Simple as that.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
Communication is entirely via the Marlin gcodes.
1. Switch to using pronsole.
2. Define the loud and quiet commands - see http://www.britishideas.com/2013/07/28/pronsole-tips-and-tricks/
3. Send the 'loud' command. Now you will see all the gcodes for everything you do.
4. For example send the 'ls' command and then then 'sdprint' command.
Also note the 'resetsd' command defined on the web pag
by
ajayre
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General
chris33 Wrote:
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> Nuts on threaded rod come loose on threaded rod
> frames
I've been running my RRP Mendel for almost a year and not a single nut has come loose. Did you put the M8 lock nuts on there?
Andy
by
ajayre
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Reprappers
The first design is mine. You can control the speed of the fan in Slic3r to get exactly the amount of airflow that you want. I find that it produces a nice breeze across the print area and run it at 100% all the time. You can see the tree frogs printed in the background which have a lot of overhangs. As it only costs a couple of quid to print it, why not give it a try?
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
I use pronsole, so it's:
- program SD card on PC
- insert SD card into Melzi
- in pronsole:
connect
M21
sdprint parts.g
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
My RepRapPro started doing this recently with the same message. The solution is to print from SD card and not over USB. The slave communications slow down the USB too much so it's no longer usable for sending gcode. Recent updates to the firmware from RRP seem to have made the issue worse.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
I never got Faberdashery to stick to cleaned glass despite many attempts. Watered-down PVA glue works but wears out after a while. Now trying Kapton tape which is what RepRapPro uses for their production machines running 24/7 printing PLA. So far so good.
Andy
by
ajayre
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Reprappers