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Safety...
Solved by making some spools out of MDF - 1/11th the cost of printing them.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30551
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
nophead Wrote:
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> I think you are working it out wrong. Arctic white
> say is £24 for 100m x 3mm, which is 880g, so
> ~£27 per Kg. Expensive but not ridiculous.
My amounts are for the 1.75mm PLA. 100m = 300g according to their website.
Arctic White 1.75mm is £19 per 300g which is £63 per kg.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
JoeDaStudd Wrote:
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> Sure if they could drop the price and offer
> spools, bare in mind this would increase the
> postage cost by a fair bit, it would be amazing.
> However doing so would eat into their profits and
> run the risk of losing such a great supplier.
>
> I'd much rather spend £30 on 100m good quality
> wi
by
ajayre
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General
Yes, not supplying it on a spool is a big PITA. I sent them an email suggesting spools and I was ignored.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
Idolcrasher Wrote:
> Firmware Specific to your printers
> (ex. RepRapPro has a RepRapPro Specific Marlin
> Firmware RepRapPro Marlin Firmware)
I'm not sure this is all that great. If a new release of Marlin comes out you then have to either wait for RRP to release their version or you have to patch it yourself. That gets increasingly difficult the more changes RRP make that don't g
by
ajayre
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General
I'm looking for empty spools/reels that can hold 100m of 1.75mm PLA. Preferably the 16cm size, but bigger is OK. Must be in the UK. I want at least three and maybe more depending on price.
Please send me a PM if you are interested. Thanks.
Andy
by
ajayre
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Wanted
Faberdashery don't have spools. The cost of printing my own is 11.30 GBP each. Ouch.
I've posted in the "Wanted" section.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
Spools - 11 years ago
I rather like the spool holders which allow the spool to sit on four skate bearings, as this allows quick changing of the color being used.
However, I buy my filament from Faberdashery 100m at a time and it doesn't come with the type of spools I am talking about.
Where can I buy just the spools? (UK)
Thanks, Andy
by
ajayre
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General
Enlightx Wrote:
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> i use watered down PVA glue on the glass (apply
> when glass is hot) at 52C and print have the
> hotend at 185c
>
> print never lift and also have a nicer matching
> finish to the bottom.
Hello. I've now tried this and it works - kind of. I've put PVA diluted 1:6 on there and I don't get warping, however
by
ajayre
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General
What I don't understand is if you go to another 3DS website - alibre.com - and click on Printers you get three printers that are completely different to the Botmill ones. They look like the ones Ed Sells is/was involved with at Bits from Bytes?
It's all very confusing.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
Robert McLean Wrote:
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> The nonsense stated in the three previous posts
> here about 3d printing makes me laugh. The stupid
> and the lazy state such things like how something
> can't be done and why not. I am grateful that the
I'm not stupid or lazy - thank you.
I posted that I think the key limitation is complexity. I think
by
ajayre
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General
When people were first buying dot matrix printers they were more interested in their new ability to print rather than the quality, speed and size.
The key limitation I see is the complexity of operation.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
No, I do it when it is cold. However after adjusting when cold it prints fine the first few times then something changes. I'll double-check it when hot however.
If the far-end Z axis motor coupling is slipping could it cause the same effect as I described?
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
I have found a clue as to why I am struggling to get PLA to stick to my glass heatbed, but I have no idea what to do next!
I have a RepRapPro Mendel which has a thumbwheel on the X axis gantry. This has a bolt tensioned with a spring. The end of the bolt hits the Z axis endstop microswitch [1].
The heatbed is leveled with three spring tensioned bolts.
I have set up the microswitch position, th
by
ajayre
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General
I found FreeCAD to be full of bugs and Creo to be tedious to use. Blender works great but is better suited to "organic" designs rather than engineering parts.
I bought a $160 license for Alibre Design and it works great. I spend my time parametric designing and having fun instead of fighting the annoyances of free software. Sometimes you get what you pay for. YMMV.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
FatFreddie Wrote:
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> If you adjust any screw, it makes the bed pivot
> about about a line between the other two screws.
> So, in the case above, I would start by altering
> the bottom left screw.
Ah - yes, of course - now I can picture it in my head what an adjustment to one screw will do. Thanks!
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
Thanks for the suggestions. I understand that four screws could warp the bed, but perhaps it is already warped and I need to apply the opposite warp to get it back into shape? I'll try adjusting the two screws as suggested by Cameron.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
4t1fy Wrote:
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> I recommend reading this. Mostly, just print (or
> otherwise acquire) the thumb screws. I have them
That method involves four screws, but my question is how to use the three screw system.
by
ajayre
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General
To answer the questions - I don't know why aluminium and three screws. It's a kit from RepRapPro aka Adrian Bowyer and I assumed there is a good reason it is why it is.
It's not a large variation towards the problem corner, just enough to make adhesion poor on the first layer.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
The diagram shows a top view of the heatbed on my Prusa Mendel. S = the position of three adjustment screws for leveling the bed. The spots are the test results with green = good and red = poor.
My heatbed is glass then aluminimum then PCB then lasercut wood.
I don't see a way to correct the problem using just the screws. Any suggestions on how I can get it level? Shims under the glass perhaps?
by
ajayre
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General
NewPerfection Wrote:
> Sounds like a bug. With that set to zero it
> should be doing the same width for the first layer
> as all subsequent layers.
For my 0.5mm nozzle setting default extrusion width to zero gives 0.7mm and setting first layer extrusion width to zero gives 0.8mm. Setting them both to 200% gives 0.6mm which matches what my machine outputs.
Andy
by
ajayre
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Slic3r
NewPerfection Wrote:
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> It doesn't do infill parallel to the outline.
> What you are seeing is a result of the first layer
> width being higher. You can adjust that under
> Print Settings/Advanced/First Layer. Set it to 0
> to have the first layer match the successive
> layers.
In Slice3r 0.9.1 I have that already set to
by
ajayre
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Slic3r
Slic3r says:
; single wall width = 0.70mm
; first layer single wall width = 0.80mm
I increased my object's wall thickness to 2.1mm and it is still not filling in between the outer and inner shell. Any ideas what I need to change?
Thanks, Andy
by
ajayre
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Slic3r
nophead Wrote:
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> Odd, I wonder if the additives in meths have
> changed over the years. My bottle is more than 20
> years old!
For the record I have a new bottle from Wickes. It doesn't list the ingredients...
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
I am using a 0.5mm nozzle and the extrusion width as measured by my calipers is 0.6mm, I've read due to die swell.
When I slice a part with 2mm thick walls Slic3r produces the outside shell and inside shell, both with one filament thickness, but no infill.
2mm / 0.6mm = 3.33
Why isn't there some kind of zig-zag infill in the 0.8mm gap? How do I solve the problem?
Do I need to design my part w
by
ajayre
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Slic3r
I'm using Faberdashery Arctic White, same as Dr. Bowyer.
I've found out that even though Methylated Spirits are recommended by some people and it makes the glass squeaky clean, PLA hates it and won't stick at all.
Don't use Methylated Spirits with PLA on glass!
I switched back to the cheapo supermarket glass cleaner with Vinegar that I was using before and there was an instant improvement. I'v
by
ajayre
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General
I've cleaned the glass with methylated spirits. I've tried a heatbed temperature of 55C, 60C and 90C. I've tried a hotend temperature of 185C and 195C (too much drooling).
Now the PLA won't stick at all - even on small parts that previously printed fine! The problem starts on the perimeters of the first layer.
I've checked the nozzle is clean and doesn't appear to be dragging. I've checked the
by
ajayre
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General
If the brown-out detection was not configured properly by the supplier and resulted in damage then I think the supplier should repair/replace the circuit board at their expense. My machine behaves the same way nophead described. If other RepRap designs allow the motors to be moved without damage, and there are no warnings that this design is different, then I don't think it is reasonable to expec
by
ajayre
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General
rob Wrote:
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> 2- As it turned out the motors were turned by hand
> and the current produced frizzed your firmware. We
Can this happen if you click on "Motors off" in pronterface and then turn the extruder motor by hand, when using the StepStick drivers?
Andy
by
ajayre
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General
With a kit you should get technical support and a warranty, both of which have value.
Andy
by
ajayre
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General