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Safety...
Next update.
I replaced the Y carriage bearings with drylin bearings. I could not make both sets align with no binding, so keeping in mind the aphorism "three points define a plane, four points define a potato chip", I left one out and installed the single in the center of that side's run. Works beautifully.
The cobwebbing was reduced to much finer and a little bit fewer, hairs, but not elimin
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Well, I bit the bullet and installed the drylin plastic bearings. These things are SUPER smooth. Time will tell how long they last.
My "gronching" and grumbling Y motion is gone. But not all was rainbows and unicorns! One side's pair lined up perfectly for an exceptionally smooth motion. The other side, not so much. No matter what I did, that other side would bind. The drylin bearings do n
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
Either it has worn a groove in that part of the filament or you don't have enough pressure on the pinch roller.
If the filament moves freely through the path, then you need to either increase the spring tension on the pinch roller or find out why the roller isn't contacting the filament to push it against the knurled gear. It should be a simple analysis.
DLC
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteorbitalair
Dumb question. Is it REALLY retracting?
Cause this is the problem I was having, but my bowden extruder is 3d printed and was flexing, so it wasn't really extruding.
E3Dv6 clones prefer small retracts too, like 1.5-2.5mm, so you have to run the temp as low as you can within those bounds to prevent dripping, and jams.
I get that. I have a direct mount system on my Anet A8. Sor
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteVatsal J Tanna
OK guxys, my layer has shifted despite homing after each layer. I'm at my wit's end in here.
If you are having a layer shift during a print it is typically one of a few things:
Your stepper is not strong enough to move and/or it has a "strike" on a printed section of your part.
* Your stepper current is not high enough
(but increasing it may just make your print head bash th
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteTrakyan
Does another spool of filament yield these same results on your printer? I would joke about the quality of chinese hotends but my printer runs one as well...
So this is an issue as of installing the new hotend? If so it is worth checking the nozzle bore and whether it is clean or has debris in there. Another thing is they could have sent you an odd sized nozzle like 0.6 or something
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quotepaulkoan
Hi, I just bought a couple of these to replace the existing motors on my printer (JK42HS40-1704):
I am driving these from a RAMPS 1.4 with A4988 drivers.
The existing motors turn fine, but these ones (once I figured out the coil pairs) vibrate heavily, but they do turn. The weird thing is that given the same command they might turn one way or turn the other way. Or turn a bit
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quotewarbunniex
Have you tried decreasing the extrusion multiplier? If enough pressure is built up in the nozzle coasting will not do much. Are you getting blobs were the filament is retracted?
If you are not getting blobs then I would say your filament is either getting printed too hot or it is possibly wet. Have you tried a different roll of pla? while i like esuns selection, i have had a littl
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Well, I have a pretty problem. I just installed a E3Dv6 clone on my A8, and it prints like crap. I am using eSun PLA, which has been a great filament for me for a long time.
It has an enormous amount of threading between parts of the model and nothing that I have tried has worked.
I have reduced the temperature until I don't get layer 1 adhesion.
I have increased the retraction amount until th
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuotePheneeny
Quotedlc60
QuotePheneeny
That's a cool looking setup. Do you have a source for the files? The carriage looks like my design but I've never seen the belted extruder before.
The computer I printed it from is in storage while the basement is being finished and I have searched and searched for the creator but been unable to find him/her. What is you your design like? Maybe it is your
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuotePheneeny
That's a cool looking setup. Do you have a source for the files? The carriage looks like my design but I've never seen the belted extruder before.
The computer I printed it from is in storage while the basement is being finished and I have searched and searched for the creator but been unable to find him/her. What is you your design like? Maybe it is yours! The extruder is the I
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Ok then.
I got my E3Dv6 and Itty bitty belted extgruder combo working with the A8 controller using Marlin 1.1.8! It is currently printing a quickie Benchy, or Benchy light, or whatever it is called using Hatchbox wood filament (a very finicky filament). Only the usual stepper, display and Z-height fiddles were needed. In contrast to the appearance of what looks like a much bulkier extruder, I
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuotePheneeny
I don't know about the digipots, but everything else is handled in Configuration.h and configuration_adv.h. Just make sure that you don't have a probe option enabled if you don't have a probe on the machine. You can also set your home position in the configuration.h file.
I get that. I was mostly worried about the z-probe. I don't use them, I prefer to manually level. I am looki
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dlc60
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Reprappers
All,
I have a Tevo Tarantula kit and Rumba board I will be using with it to do a Chimera printer. A good deal came my way and I am intrigued by the roller wheels instead of linear "glides" to move everything around - I suspect the rollers will be far smoother than the cheap linear bearings that usually come with these cheap printers...
Anyway.
So I decided to upgrade my A8 with a E3Dv6 and a "I
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
I have an Anet A8 and I am tired of Octoprint telling me about its fire-danger firmware AND I am putting an E3Dv6 and geared extruder on it, and the old F/W must go for a couple of reasons.
So.
I have pulled over the latest Marlin (1.1.8) and am using the A8 configuration files. But I have some questions before I replace the F/W in the controller.
1) Will the default F/W config do something odd/
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dlc60
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Reprappers
I have an Anet A8 and I am tired of Octoprint telling me about its fire-danger firmware AND I am putting an E3Dv6 and geared extruder on it, so the old F/W must go.
So.
I have pulled over the latest Marlin (1.1.8) and am using the A8 configuration files. But I have some questions.
1) Will the default F/W config do something odd/bad/destructive if I don't have any bed leveling sensor on my printe
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dlc60
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Firmware - Marlin
When I had this problem, nothing fixed it until I changed the nozzle.
Try this experiment.
Manually place your head about 20mm above your print surface.
Manually extrude some filament (I do this at 5-10 mm/s - This isn't a retraction, you can't usually burn it out at 50mm/s!
Do the extrude at least 10mm at a shot.
Does the filament come out kind of thin and curl up around the nozzle instead of
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenumber40fan
My bed made the same noise. I pulled one rod at a time and added lube into the bearings. She runs smooth now. Can't remember what I did with the belt, but I do know what you are talking about.
Tried that. When I put the frame stiffeners on the base I pulled both rods and oiled them. If anything, now it may actually feel worse... Nothing is binding, the rods are parallel an
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
I recently built an Anet A8, and it works pretty well right off the bat, but it can be better, and so, in the great spirit of "reprap-ing", I am hacking it to improve it.
So far I have...
Put on a Z-axis end-stop enhancement
Got a single-piece bed plate and put on a three-point leveling system.
Put tower stabilizers on the top of my Z-axis towers
Added front and back "stiffeners"
Added a better
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the info.
Hopefully, even if closed, I can re-purpose it to another printer that is minimally endowed.
It looks like a Rumba or GT2560 is going into this machine
Thanks,
DLC
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
I have printed out a Chimera hotend mount for my A8 but then realized I didn’t even know if it’s board or firmware would supports such a thing.
Will it? Or will I be replacing everything but the frame to do this?
Thanks,
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRossos
This could be off-topic.
I have made a comparison table of the mainboards here.
If anything, it's a list of mainboards that in existence.
In my opinion RAMBo board is rather old, and there are a few variations of it, both in names and manufactures.
While gathering the information and making the comparison table to me it seems that GT2560 is the successor of the RAMBo.
*Confused RAMB
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteDust
Except MKS is a scum sucking company that takes from the opens source community and gives nothing back.
They don't support their products or even document them.
I didn't know that! I assumed because it was on the reprap wiki it was reprap. Someone should remove their entry. I just tried the links on that board and found all of them non-functional. I have bought my last MKS board. I w
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteDr_aia
I have ramps 1.4 with marlin installed on my home built printer, I have an endstop for the top and bottom of each axis and have them configured correctly to the correct pins, I have checked each one with pronterface. My printer works as far as I can tell through sending moves through pronterface however my lcd shows total gibberish on the screen. It is a reprap discount full graphic s
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteTrakyan
First thing to look out for, I'd say, is not to use ramps/mega. But yes, the rest is just a matter of tweaking the firmware.
EDIT: What firmware are you wanting to use? Marlin has good documentation if you look up their website and then the heading for what you're after (i.e. limit switches, z probes)
I'd agree. Get an MKS gen 1.4 board. It is about the same price (sometimes chea
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteDTolbert
Hey everybody, long time reader first-time poster and I love how insightful everybody is. I have a very custom Prusa i3 built on a P3 Steel frame, using Ramps 1.4 controller on a Mega 2560. I've been having layer shifts for a long time now specifically on my y-axis. I've been searching for months and have been unsuccessful in coming up with a solution. I originally used Marlin with
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteRossos
You mean to tell us that your Z-axis Lead Screws operate dry?
In my thingie I used Marine White Grease on the Lead Screws just after the first dry run resulted in a screech of a dying alien bug symphony.
That is a great description of the sound.
I "assumed" that the lead screws came properly ready to roll. Which, you know, may not be so... Gosh, it didn't say anything about that
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
Well, I set my A8 up as shown where the center of the coupler has nothing in it. No change, still "grinds". So, the question remains, which is the most likely candidate: the bearings or the screws? I thing that it is affecting my print quality, so there _will_ be a rebuild. I'd rather not just "shotgun", if there are any troubleshooting suggestions then I'm all ears.
So, first on my shotgun t
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
When I first built my A8 it ran smoothly and quietly. I then followed somone's suggestion and adjusted the connection of the jack screw's flex coupler to the stepper and screws so that there was several mm between the two. From that point on I had noise issues that I have been unable to solve. The gantry rises silently and smoothly, but when Z direction is towards the bed, it "gronches", is th
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
I have a FolgerTech Kossel 2020 that uses the typical MEGA2564/RAMPS 1.4 board combo and a ReprapDiscount graphics controller. For a year it has been just fine, then suddenly the display scrambles about 10 minutes into a print. A reset brings it back, but it always scrambles now. I got another one, and it does the same thing.
Does anyone know what causes this? How to fix it? Is something o
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dlc60
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Reprappers