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Safety...
Maybe I'm just lucky. I just tighten the nozzle against the heat break when the heater is at 250C and get no leaks.
I've successfully assembled (I think) 10 hot ends. One thing that helps perhaps is that I have a zero tolerance for problems. If I have any trouble whatsoever I replace the heat break. If possible, I replace it with an "all metal" one. I have one that ended up with an interesti
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dlc60
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Reprappers
I think that I may have found the problem.
White PLA.
I replaced the eSun white PLA with a spool of forest green eSun PLA+.
I got a typical, excellent print.
So, that spool of white PLA+ from eSun seriously inhaled. I was lamenting this to a cow orker today and he said it isn't eSun, it is the white. He had tried white from two other filament makers and they didn't work either. Same icky su
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dlc60
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Printing
I have an Anet A8 that has been a fantastic performer. And then I put a roll of eSun White PLA+ on it. Now it looks like this.
Total crap. Actually, to even get this good I had to increase flow to 110%.
I am about to embark upon a quest to look at filament diameter, desiccant bake, temperature hunting, extrusion rate, retract rate and distance, and...?
If anyone has seen this before I'd love
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dlc60
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Printing
Sounds like you are changing too many things at the same time.
If you are getting messy, goo'ey prints, you are printing too hot. Back it off 5C and try again.
If you have small parts you may not be waiting long enough between layers for a layer to cool off. Both Simplify3D and CURA have settings to address this.
If your hot end drops 20C when the fan comes on, don't turn it on so hard. I st
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quote11Master
I have an enclosure, glass with PEI on the bed and no problem with sticking. There only problem is what to choose direct or bowden.
I was wondering if that setup can do good job. I have on my mind sentence that if something is for all then it is for nothing. But You all have told that it should work; I will try on my own then.
I have tried BuildTac, and hated it. I have a couple
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Most of my hot ends have leaked initially if I didn't do a good job with the "heat tight" step. I got better with it over time. These parts are not all that robust, so I never used a spanner/wrench with a long handle. I also never went to 280C, even on my E3Dv6 heads. I went to 245 C, let it sit for 5 minutes or so, then tightened the system down with a pair of slip-lock pliers and a "thumb w
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quotedc42
Quotedlc60
Nice, I was wondering if gcode had the ability to have custom subroutines for special sequences. Good to know.
Yes, some firmware support Gcode macros stored on the SD card. Some macros are executed automatically when certain things happen, for example tool changes. Others are executed manual using the M98 command.
I am at a new level of learning now. If these macros are
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteVDX
Quotedlc60
I wonder how the script knows which head is active?
... you have to set a variable for the tool number.
With my own modifications for camera-teaching and tool changing it's an internal variable which is set by the "T" code -- "T0" selects the camera, "T1" or higher the respective tool.
Have a special routine and a visual "toolbox" too for changing the offset for every tool
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dlc60
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Reprappers
So, it looks like just about "anything goes" as far as the wiper is concerned. I just need to mount it in such a fashion that it works reliably, and then code up a tool change gcode script.
I wonder how the script knows which head is active? I'll have to examine the code sequences used, that'll tell.
Kind of excited with this concept, it will be the final step to perfect dual-head prints. I h
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quoteekaggrat
have a look at the bigbox by e3d.. they have a toolchange gcode which puts the head in a bucket and purges all the content on tool change. then when it selects the new hotend it primes it in the bucket and starts the print , zero drool what so ever. the down side is that the printer has to be big enough for the heads to go outside the bed.
Thanks, that is good info. I have a Tevo
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteRoberts_Clif
QuoteSrek
The fan will be a problem with most prints, cooling ABS during printing is not necessary and often problematic. It behaves very differently than PLA. For bigger parts try to prevent draught, depending on the shape of your printer try to enclose it. Often enough covering it with a mylar foil can improve prints hugely.
I understand though my printer is inside a heated c
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dlc60
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Printing
Quote11Master
But I'm still wondering what with retraction and how the prints looks. Before with direct I have around 2mm for PLA, ABS With teflon tube and prints look ok. Now with full metal the maximum is allmoust 1mm, everything above clogged the nozzle :/
I'm still setting all and PA and flex still waiting for me and I'm curious if someone did it and how the prints quality?
I use the "full
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dlc60
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Reprappers
I have gotten my dual-head Tarantula printer to do a pretty good job, but still have little nits that are deposited from time to time marring the surface.
It is time to add a wiper and gcode to use it. The first thing that I need to know is what rubber can be used as the wiper material? My two-color stuff is so far all PLA, so it needs to be heat tolerant of PLA level temperatures. What is eve
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe
Does simplify3D have a 'wipe tower' option? Or does it allow to print the skirt the same height than the part? ( prime tower and wipe tower combo )
If not, give slic3r a try.
S3D has priming tower and ooze shield. Both follow the height of the model. I have never used the priming tower since that has never been an issue.
I have been experimenting and found a combo of these three th
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dlc60
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Printing
Hey all,
I have been tinkering with a clone E3D Chimera on my Tevo Tarantula and am getting pretty close to "good".
I have attached a series of pictures of a Thingiverse dual head Moai print. Note that front, back and left side look decent. But, the right side gets ext0's drool mixed in with Ext1's filament during the print. It is probably just drooling.
My question is this. What will do t
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dlc60
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Printing
Go for the Octoprint system. A full setup with the RPi 3B+ is about US$45 on Amazon. Then add your micro SD card for its OS.
Once you do this you will wonder why you didn't do it sooner!
DLC
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dlc60
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Reprappers
I use Marlin for my printers, I have gotten used to hacking and using it.
My two slicer/printer programs are CURA (Free) and Simplify3D ($150).
There are things that CURA does great, that S3D, not so much (dealing with oddball meshes).
There are things that S3D does great, that CURA, not so much (dual head prints, supports).
I have never used repetier, nor slic3r, so I have no opinions there. (I
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dlc60
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Printing
I agree with the general consensus about E3Dv6 quality (it is spotty). I have had this kind of clogging issue and every time it seems to be something different. I have three genuine E3Dv6 1.75mm hotends and one genuine E3Dv6 3mm. Both have had this issue. There are two things I have done that have corrected this "blockage" problem:
Replace the nozzle. Twice I exchanged the $12 E3D nozzle wit
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dlc60
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Printing
I find that I need to slow a PETG print down a little from PLA. Also, I sometimes need to up the flow rate. I always run a on the hotter side of the range as well.
PETG likes to get the "smoosh" from more volume, not a closer squeeze like PLA.
DLC
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dlc60
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Printing
I put springs between each pair of rods on my deltas. It makes them vibrate less and really tightens up the action. The longer the rods, the worse it gets...
DLC
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dlc60
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Printing
I just solved this problem on a printer than never gave me trouble before.
Reduce your retract distance. Try to dry out your filament.
The former is a must, the latter is a guess.
What is happening is that you are having lots of retracts when moving from one small zone to another. Note that your section that was solid looks great, the part where the head has to cross open space (typically cau
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteSupraGuy
No pictures to support, but PETg is making me crazy.
I had high hopes for it, and my first attempt seemed to be going well. Unfortunately my gcode file was truncated, so it just stopped printing after about 7mm, but up to there, it looked perfect.
Then I tried again, and I got about 2 layers, then it jammed. I had to disassemble the extruder, since the filament bent and wouldn't g
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dlc60
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Printing
I have hundreds of hours of PETG on hair-spray covered glass, Blue tape and Kapton with hair spray.
I get the best results with plain glass with hair spray. I let the surface cool and the part just pops off.
I have used MakerGeek PETG, eSun PETG and Sunlu PETG, all with the same results. No glass chipping.
Same with ABS prints, I have less time with ABS, but still quite a few prints. Both smal
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dlc60
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Printing
Did you do this all in TinkerCAD? I use this all the time for fast projects, but never for something this elaborate!
Nice work.
DLC
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Suspicion confirmed.
I tried a few variations upon a theme, but one variation hit the nail on the head. Retraction distance.
This combination of hot end and extruder was most unhappy with a 5.5mm retraction. After doing some research I discovered that the E3Dv6 prefers short retractions, 2-3mm max, even with a Bowden. I have other Bowdens that are using 5mm just fine - But this is my first use
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dlc60
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Reprappers
No such luck. Tightened up the extruder quite a bit and still, same crap, same place. However the z resonance test clearly shows it is NOT about the layer. I still think it is something about the extruder. I can't tell what though...
Any ideas? I'll fiddle with the fan, but because this is already both starving and gushing, I don't think that it is the fan...
Thanks,
DLC
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteBjoern
I'm with Stephen6309 on this.
What material is it ?
it looks a bit hot, but maybe that's just me.
I have a highly aggressive parts fan. This looked a WHOLE LOT worse before I turned it down.
I am using eSUN PLA, BTW. I know this brand of PLA very well and have the correct temperature on it.
I sat and watched the whole print a couple of times. I think that before I was looking at
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dlc60
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Reprappers
A recently rebuilt delta printer of mine is showing a unique (to me) problem with its prints. They mess up in the middle, no matter where I put the model on the bed, this is what it ends up as:
I rebuilt my troublesome linear rail bearings. Same problem. Replaced my belts Same problem. I actually FOUND problems with both of these, but replacing them has not gotten my mechanical problem solved.
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quotedlc60
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Are you using steel core belts? How big are the pulleys?
I have seen people report weird behavior when the steel cables inside the belt break due to excessive flexing on too small pulleys. The belt is then free to stretch and cause all sorts of odd print defects.
I had a kit come with those belts - Bletch! They ran rough, I replaced them with the typical on
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Are you using steel core belts? How big are the pulleys?
I have seen people report weird behavior when the steel cables inside the belt break due to excessive flexing on too small pulleys. The belt is then free to stretch and cause all sorts of odd print defects.
I had a kit come with those belts - Bletch! They ran rough, I replaced them with the typical ones. I am s
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dlc60
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Reprappers