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Safety...
Quotedavetech
while using marlin 1.1.8 I get now and again something setting the bed and hot end to zero this is not detected by the printer, has anybody else had this problem or is there ayway to detect this while printing
I have just moved my Cartesian printer to 1.1.8 and am having a devil of a time getting the heating system to work reliably.
I often see my reported bed temperature drop to z
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dlc60
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif
I would not use Bed Limit Switching unless your Bed will work with a form a PWM
//#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING
* As described above, except for the bed (M140/M190/M303).
WATCH_TEMP_INCREASE should not be set below 2
#define WATCH_BED_TEMP_INCREASE 1 // Degrees Celsius
I think so. Many of these features don't have a bunch of explanation wrapped around them.
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteRoberts_Clif
You might also want to show your Configuration.h file
Not much of anything to show from configuration.h for the heater values, but here they are:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_4 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
// Dummy thermistor constant temperature readings, for use with 998 and 999
#define DUM
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quotechoochooboy123
Thanks for the info on pronterface! i never knew what software to use to interact and send gcode before this. I tried the M119 command and it said that the x and y endstops were open, but the z endstop was "TRIGGERED." None of the endstops are being pressed so I'm confused as to what to do in this case. The stops worked perfectly on it before i installed Marlin and unfortunate
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dlc60
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Reprappers
I have a weird problem. I have moved my printer from an ancient Marlin that didn't support the Full Graphic Smart Controller to Marlin 1.1.8.
I have everything set up as it was in the old version, and it all works except for an odd heater issue.
I have left my bed heater as "bang bang" because it is so massive that it takes quite a while to come up to temp.
I tried to use PWM, but that really to
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quoteellis83
Hi DLC,
Thanks for the comments. I'm only printing via SD card and have tried three different SD cards, two different SD card readers, fresh installs of the recommended version of Cura. I got the original firmware from the manufacturer and reinstalled the firmware completely but the problem persists. I attached a video of the behavior I'm describing:
Let me know if you have any t
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dlc60
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Printing
Either the thermistors are faulty, or (most likely) they are not the entry that you should use in Marlin.
Looking at configuration.h says that #5 is a Semitec 104GT-2, not a NTC3950, so that is probably your problem.
Numbers 11 and 13 in the sensor table specifically calls out the 3950, try those and see what you get.
DLC
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quoteobewan
Where is the z switch located ,top or bottom of ?
Make sure it is plugged into the corresponding monthly or max conector.
Adding to Obewan here:
If you don't have Pronterface, get it, it will make it easier to troubleshoot your system. Simplify3D is also easy to use when troubleshooting, but you have to buy that one..
In this case, your gcode tool is "M119". When you issue this cod
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quotechoochooboy123
Hi! I am very very new to printing, just got a printer a few days before posting this. I decided to install Marlin after watching a few videos and seeing some forums that recommend it over the stock firmware that comes with the printer. I had a few initial issues, like the stepper motors being inverted, but was easily able to fix those. Unfortunately, i cannot figure out a big
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dlc60
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Reprappers
I was looking through the manual. It loads the Arduino IDE and what looks like (from the LCD) an older Marlin firmware. It also loads a REALLY OLD version of CURA, which also makes me think that this is an old version of Marlin.
The printer looks like a Hypercube-type, those familiar with that design could tell you which flavor, I can't...
I got a K200 Kossel for my son a year or so ago. Look
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dlc60
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Printing
I wanted exactly what you wanted. So I started hacking...
Beginning with Makerbeam XL T-slot rails and frame parts from someone's Mini-Kossel design on Thingiverse, I came up with this:
The bed is a 100mm disk of 5mm thick acrylic. The hot end is a V6 clone on a custom end effector that gives the best Z height by putting all but the nozzle above the end effector plate. The corners are PLA,
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Anyone else get this excuse in their email? I offer this response with no comment...
Well, that's no good at all...
Good morning, well as you might know or might not know MakerGeeks.com is having a bit of a rough patch - we have grown and grown and grown over the last 24 months and we finally reached our breaking point over Black Friday and Cyber Monday 2018.
With our equipment issues and no
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteDancer
Yes, on a RAMPS 1.4
One of many how to's
The problem is (if I understood correct) that empty EEPROM has "FF" in every cell. So if you do not set back EEPROM to factory settings (M502, M500), it will load "FF" (--> Maximum) as current setting from EEPROM.
Thanks for the pointer - I never thought to do this type of a setup on a RAMPS board!
DLC
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteDancer
well dlc - thats not exactly correct :-)
You can use RAMPS with TMC2130 with serial Communication between those two. The Digi-Pot is in the TMC2130
But there may be another issue. If you enable TMC2130 serial communication, you have to reset EEPROM to factory settings! - Else current will be much to high.
On a RAMPS 1.4 board?
And that super high current could be causing heating i
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteMCcarman
As your description of the issue is based on the extrusion quality you should also think about the hot end.
Anything reducing the nozle tip temperature (distance from the heater cartridge), airflow around the nozle, may thicken the filament. Extrusion speed increases may reduce heating time. Loose thermister.
I think that this is the key. I am seeing this now on other printers. I
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dlc60
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Printing
Quoteimqqmi
Expansion of the heated bed? Uneven bed? Bed mounting screws loose?
Those would certainly _move_ the bed. But not cause a re-zero'd bed to not work at the same nozzle height as before.
I am missing something. I wonder if the behavior of the Z axis switch has changed. Hmm...
DLC
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dlc60
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Printing
Hey,
I am a bit late to this discussion, but I noted that you wrote this:
"I now have a RAMPS 1.4, on 24v, with A4988 drivers on Z and E, and TMC 2130 drivers on X and Y. It took some fiddling to get it all to work but now it does. But I have a layer shifting problem. I first checked all the mechanics, everything is still in perfect order. First flaw I noticed was the 2130's got really hot. I se
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dlc60
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Printing
Quoteretrosenator
I managed using a 0.3mm nozzle and 1mm line width. When the printer fills in alternating patterns, it makes a nice screen with 0.5mm holes rather than actually filling.
The issue is, now to combine this with other parts of the model that are not screens, since they do not print correctly anymore.
For example, I might print a funnel with a screen at the bottom.
I don't know
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteM_Xeno
As HP plotters are masterpieces of programmed obsolescence, their second-hand value is:
"We agree to take it over for free, as part of our environmental responsibility program, if you buy one of our new models!"
Without shame!
Without shame indeed.
However, someone out there is always looking for old equipment that works, to keep an old process running. I sold my old PowerPC Mac
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Bear with me, this is odd...
I used to set my A8 up to do the first layer at 105% flow and .18mm (90% line height). Worked great, good squish, good adhesion. Perfect.
Now, when I have changed nothing, this acts like the nozzle is too close to the bed and starves.
I have to set my first layer to 110% flow and .3mm to get a perfect first layer.
WTF?
Has anyone had a printer do this? What happene
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dlc60
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Printing
What does it mean when the Marlin F/W prints Z-Endstop on the display during a print?
The print keeps going and nothing special seems to happen.
What does this mean?
Thanks,
DLC
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteTmcall83
I am looking to build a 3d printer and i have a 60" hp designjet plotter i will be scrapping it does work but the ink cost around 1k and haven't been able to sell it, so i was wondering would it be worth salvaging all the useable parts from it to build a 3d printer or would it be easier to just buy a kit? Any help would be appreciated thanks
Sell it used and buy a kit. You just ha
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuotePDBeal
I've experienced some issues with 0.6 nozzles compared to 0.4 nozzles and it seems to miss some sections and creates gaps. I'm still working to figure out the exact cause, but I suspect neither Slic3r or Cura work well with anything beyond 0.4 nozzles. It's almost like the tooling paths are setup and designed for 0.4, and just increasing the nozzle size causes some "errors" to happe
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dlc60
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Printing
I have given up on them. It would be one thing if they just slow to refund, but after about 50 emails, not a SINGLE response.
Like a year of buying stuff from them is just dumped like I don't even exist anymore.
Like every other loudly self-announced "christian" operation I have dealt with, they turn out to be a ripoff. How do people like that sleep at night?
Gonna start shying away from the
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dlc60
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Printing
Subject line asks it all.
For those of you that use makergeeks.com, are they actually still there? I am getting advert blast-o-grams from them, so...?
I have tried repeatedly to contact their help line to modify an order and have gotten no responses back. This is not in line with my prior experiences with this company, so I wonder if their plant blew up, they went bankrupt or vanished into the
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dlc60
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Printing
Maybe it is just me, but...
I notice that you're using white filament. I have used three different, good quality manufacturers' filament and whenever I use a white filament my surfaces look like crap. Swap out the white for another color and all is perfect...
Has anyone else ever noticed that white PLA prints poorly? What is the secret for printing white PLA?
Thanks,
DLC
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dlc60
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Printing
This is pretty common if you are scratch building. There is no standard wiring of stepper motors, no standard colors, nothing. If you are first firing up a printer where you bought parts without a kit, then your wires are wrong.
Look on your RAMPS board at the stepper connectors. You should see "2B 2A 1A 1B" above the pins of the connectors on the board. These define the windings 1 and 2.
D
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteMartinpoles
Hi everyone.
I need some help regarding the homing of a 3d delta printer, and it's my first attempt to create a 3d printer by scrap.
My problem is regarding the homing, when I do the homing 2 out of 3 endstop work properly but 1(always one) doesn't work properly(see video).
While the support is hitting the endstop, it moves a little back like the others, but then move up again a
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quotegazza3535
it was going well untill it came loose from the bed, a bit more expermenting need with the bed temp it think
I am late to this discussion, but I can offer some experience that I have with CURA.
First off, get a newer version than 15.anything. CURA gets better and faster with the newer versions. I use 3.4.1 (3.5 bombed out on me right away, I'll wait for some supplemental releases
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteTrakyan
Not much point in using an all metal heatbreak if you'll wrap the threads with plumbers tape (teflon).
Nope. That one still used a PTFE core. Totally a Frankenstein's monster hot end in that printer. Built with "sorta fits" and "what I have in the junkbox" parts.
I have a full replacement for it when I rebuild the entire thing. At the moment it works for creating large test prot
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dlc60
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Reprappers