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Safety...
I found the problem. I left USE_ZMIN_PLUG defined. For some reason that added an offset to the first layer.
Hmm. I'll look into the 1.1.9BF. I have not used 1.1.9 enough to see the bugs.
What does the BF release fix? I didn't see any release notes in github.
thanks,
DLC
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dlc60
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Firmware - Marlin
First off, I do not know if this is a Marlin issue or a CURA issue. It may be some interaction.
I just updated my delta printer from a VERY old version of Marlin to 1.1.9. I am using CURA 3.6 with both the older version of Marlin and the newer one.
After updating to Marlin 1.1.9 I used Pronterface to level the bed and check Z height (I manually level and have EEPROM disabled).
Everything looke
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dlc60
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Firmware - Marlin
As long as you get the coils right (1A and 2A together, etc.), then things will work, you just have to swap wires on one of the coils to get the stepper to go the right direction.
Yeah, you'll have to wrestle with the connectors, so do NOT buy a bag of 10 cables for $2! Get quality cables and save yourself the grief of dealing with marginal wire gauge for the current and bad crimps. I am big on
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dlc60
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
QuoteMKSA
QuoteVDX
... what's more sensitive or problematic -- dust on "perfect" hardened surfaces ... or "averaging" the joint position with a bunch of plastic rollers on aluminium
Indeed but hard plastic roller on Al may be enough for a hobbyist 3D printer.
Anyway far better than ball bearings on EMT conduit (galvanized) or soft steel tube, AL profile that generates their own metallic dust
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dlc60
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General
QuoteLoboCNC
Quotedlc60
QuoteLoboCNC
Kinda pricey - $40 for a 4 sided slide. Is a 2 or 3 sided assembly rigid enough to use stand-alone?
Not compared to a good linear slide. A 3-sided set would work fine it seems for deltas. I really hate the linear bearings for polished rods, they seem to gum up and go bad pretty often, so I am wondering if these could replace those as well.
Hmm
DLC
Plast
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dlc60
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General
QuoteSashap
Unbelievable! Out of 10 drivers...8 are dead. 3 so bad that they suck so much power that the board goes dim. So, I can at least calibrate my printer by moving the two I have on hand (turning off all power before moving them ). I guess I need to order more. Any value to ordering different kinds? These are a4988 knockoffs. Does anyone recommend a different kind? And can I mix an
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteSashap
hot end and bed both power up and heat up perfectly. Pronterface and lcd both show correct values.
lcd works with/without usb.
Then your stepper drivers are installed incorrectly or the wires from the stepper motors are plugged into the wrong spots. There are not a lot of other options but wiring and stepstick drivers if all of the rest of the board is operating correctly.
Does
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteSashap
HI,
I have MKS Gen V1.4 board brand new. Using a4988 steppers, 42SHDC3025-24B steppers. All wiring is correct and verified across sources and spec sheets. This same hardware all worked (but using different board) in the exact same configuration using Ramps board prior to the changeover. Zero movement or even a hint of movement from the motors. All else responds well in pronterfa
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteLoboCNC
Kinda pricey - $40 for a 4 sided slide. Is a 2 or 3 sided assembly rigid enough to use stand-alone?
Not compared to a good linear slide. A 3-sided set would work fine it seems for deltas. I really hate the linear bearings for polished rods, they seem to gum up and go bad pretty often, so I am wondering if these could replace those as well.
Hmm
DLC
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dlc60
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General
And sometimes on other printers as well. It seems related mostly to "low end" printer boards like the Sanguino board on the Anet A8.
Foosel is working on this problem since it seems omnipresent recently.
So if you are having issues with odd pauses and stuttering with your A8 on Octoprint, you are not alone and Gina is working on it (tip the author some more ).
This has been a public service a
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dlc60
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Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Try reducing the bed temperature if the stuff sticks too well.
I've been printing some TPU parts recently and found that my 60C bed temperature was sticking them to the PEI surface too well. I have since dropped the bed temperature to 45C, but may go lower yet. They still stick quite well but not quite as hard as they do with the bed set to 60C.
Normally that is what I
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dlc60
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Printing
It sounds like your Arduino could not compile the version of Marlin you used. (Your English is better than my French, no apology needed!)
First go here to get the latest Arduino IDE to install:
Get the Windows installer, not the app (I have heard a few problems with the Windows App).
Now go here to get the latest Marlin image:
It looks like 1.1.9 is the latest tested release
After you unzip
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dlc60
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Printing
Quotejefbed
What temperature, material, and speed are you using? To me it looks too cool or too fast. Also, make sure the "Slow down if print time is below" is high enough and the "Min print speed" setting is low enough in the filament cooling settings of slic3r. For example, I use 20 and 5 for PLA, respectively, and 15 and 1 for ABS.
This looks like a problem with excessive retracts or you h
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dlc60
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Printing
Quoteebubekirn
There is no problem about temratures. I solved that problem but still not working.
Is the extruder stepper even trying to move? Does the LCD display give any error message?
To confirm:
Your temperature for the hot end is going to the proper value? (180C to 240C or whatever you sent to it)
DLC
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dlc60
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General
Most of my printers have A4988 drivers. I now _have_ to try this mod to see if it takes the noise and jitter down a bit!
DLC
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dlc60
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General
QuoteOhmarinus
Okay I've tried 3 different hotends (J-head, Merlin and E3D v6), 2 extruder motors (both new), rebuilt the extruder twice (no slippage, no filled up teeth, no loss of compression and consistent extrusion), completely changed the motherboard (replaced both Ramps 1.4 and the Arduino Mega), replaced the stepper driver 3 times on both Ramps, tried 3 versions of Marlin firmware (the fir
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dlc60
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Printing
Quotewildone
Thank you for your words of wisdom.
After I read your reply I thought about what all had been done and realized that initially I may have been running cura as root from the cli after installing cura from the ultimaker site.
When the printer problem started I removed the ultimaker version and installed the fedora version that can be run from the gui so it was then running as my user.
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dlc60
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Printing
Quotevegetable
I am having some trouble calibrating my printer. I have the correct steps/mm value that I need to send to my printer, but when I change the value in my arduino program, M205 does not report the value to have changed. I am using a ramps 1.4/arduino mega, with repetier host and firmware.
If you have the EEPROM enabled, that will overwrite any source code changes that you make.
You
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dlc60
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Reprappers
If you are using a RAMPS 1.4 and Mega controller then you should not be editing any of the pins. The only thing you need to do is in the configuration.h file, down in the LCD section to uncomment the graphics libraries you need to use, and to make sure that you do have those graphics libraries.
For example if you have the reprap graphics controller (not the full graphics one) then uncomment as b
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dlc60
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Reprappers
That would sound pretty odd anywhere else but on a 3D printing forum...
I have been applying and re-applying the usual Aquanet super hold on my borosilicate glass bed for many months now, just spot spraying locations where parts were removed.
Yesterday I printed a body for the "Itty Bitty Belted Extruder" in ABS. I have a fully enclosed Delta machine so the chamber keeps pretty warm. A minor go
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dlc60
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Printing
Quotepapergeek
I started another print this morning which was not covering a huge amount of area, and this time it got stuck on an X-axis movement and became skewed.
My strongest suspicion is that either the drivers or other regulator components on the RAMPS board are failing. I was not expecting a failure so did not have temperature measurement running but all of my motors were too hot to touch
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dlc60
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCristian03
Good to all the community a pleasure to greet you. I publish my problem waiting for some help to solve it, thanks.
I bought a 3D printer based on the Anet A8, made all the relevant connections and some basic Marlin firmware configurations. The problem is as follows, I preheat to 160 degrees extruder and 60 degrees bed, after this I select the file to print, so the printer begins t
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteMikejn1
I realize this post has a bit of age to it, but I am experiencing the same issue.. The Z-height is spot on but X and Y are a little larger than they should be, dimension wise.. The post above said to adjust the DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD in the firmware.. I have an Anycubic Kossel with Marlin firmware 1.1.0... Where do I find these settings?
I am a beginner when it comes to 3D printers but
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteWillbill
I recently replaced the heating cartridge in my Tevo Tornado with a 24v heating cartridge and now when i try heating it the temperature jumps to at least 40 degrees above what I set it. Then throughout the print the temperature will fluctuate at least ten degrees any ideas?
The stock Tornado is a 12C system. You need to use a 12V heater unless you have converted over to a 24V syst
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteStealthNinja1O1
I already resoldered the end stops so they are all the same mode, and working. But when I try to home, it just halts instantly without any movement happening. Moving the axises without homing doesn't do anything as well, but no error then.
I'm currently trying to install klipper on it to see if it's the firmware, but had no succes making that work so far.
More details please
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quotebenjamin_le
Sorry for the lack of reply. Here was our finished product! Mechanically sound but lacking in intelligence. We did the most we could with our timetable using a deterministic algorithm (not my expertise).
That is a very credible first attempt!
Good job,
DLC
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dlc60
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Mechanics
QuoteStealthNinja1O1
Hello
I am looking for someone who can figure out why my custom kossel won't home.
Every time I try to move a axis (extruder does work btw and min-temp is set to 0 for testing) it just halts. It says, Homing failed, Printer halted, Please reset.
I am using a bigtreetech SKR V1.3, and am compiling it with vscode and PIO Home.
2 of my endstops are in No, and the other one in N
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quotegunnd14
Hi,
I am building my own reprap Prusa I3. I recently caused a short on my ramps 1.4. It fried my aruidno, so I replaced it. The problem is that my stepper drivers are still putting out a really muddy stepper signal (see picture). I do not know if it is the ramps or the stepper drivers or both. I have uploaded some testing code to the arduino, and I know that it is working. Any help w
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dlc60
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General
Quotefumo
Latest (not so good) news:
I fixed (i.e. glued) the cracks in the x-ends, did a complete alignment of rods, belts, etc. and made sure everything is running as desired. The calibration cube came out fine (it finished before a layer shift occured).
Unfortunately, the layer shifts are still there. So I sat beside the printer watching what happens. This is what I found:
At first, printi
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteAdam.m.Nelson
@Dust, Thanks for the reply!
I'll give that firmware a try, and I used to use Pronterface so that is nice and convenient.
I'm surprised to hear about the 3mm going obsolete! Can you recommend a 1.75 extruder?
I have found (surprisingly) that most of the hotends work most of the time. Slightly better than the rest, at a reasonable price is the E3Dv6 hotend. However, on a M
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dlc60
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General Mendel Topics