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Safety...
Our Reprap machines are "open loop". The only certainty we have are the min stops (on a Prusa style) and if the correct thermistor is configured, the temperature.
It sounds like your "steps per mm" in your configuration.8 may not be correct for your printer. Also, your microstepping setting on your stepper drivers may not match your configuration.h and printer steppers.
Things to check: (The f
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dlc60
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Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist
I think you have some other problem, such as a partially blocked nozzle, that is coincidental to the change in retraction settings. For a direct extruder, retraction of about 1mm is normal and usually sufficient, but it depends on the nozzle diameter, extruder acceleration and retraction speed settings.
What are the rest of the extruder settings- acceleration, speed of
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dlc60
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Printing
Hmm. Solving a couple of issues with Delta machines.
Hmmm,
DLC
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dlc60
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Delta Machines
I use a 3mm retraction on my Chimera, and that works pretty well. When dual printing I also use the draft shield rather than the wipe tower, I get pretty decent results.
DLC
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dlc60
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Printing
Quoteatmark
Hi
I had a large print going on the other day, which I needed to print overnight. Fortunately I woke up and I was wondering why the printer isn't making any noise. The print had stopped after few hours leaving the still hot extruder on the print. The print itself was hot and badly melted. Several clocks in the house were resetted, so there must have been a short power outage. But it
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dlc60
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Safety & Best Practices
Quotefoul_owl
Ok, this gave me a good laugh. Perhaps I'm overthinking it.
I often wonder this. We have been told that our PLA is just colored corn starch, so we think "harmless" and go happily on our way.
BUT, you know, when grad students start looking for things to do, someone always rains on the parade!
To be fair, I have noticed that I get a sore throat when I hang out in a room with sev
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dlc60
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Safety & Best Practices
Quotefumo
Ok then, I slightly reduced the extrusion multiplier, cleaned and lubricated the x and y rails, and they run much smoother now. But....
after cleaning and lubricating I watched a print of a small cylinder (12mm diameter, 15mm high). At about 11 mm height I noticed an audible "clack", and the y-axis was offset by some 12mm . So I'm still after the reason for that error!!!
That isn't an
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dlc60
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Printing
Quotefoul_owl
Sometimes my heated bed reaches full temp very quickly, within 10 minutes or so, but other times it can take an hour or so. This is on the same day, back to back tests. Room temp did not change between tests.
What could cause this strange behavior? Brand new ramps 1.5 board.
What is your power supply rated at? It is possible that it is "crow-barring" and then recovering. If, for
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dlc60
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Printing
Quotefoul_owl
Send: M48 X150 Y150 P20
Recv: Mean: -0.693944 Min: -0.696 Max: -0.692 Range: 0.003Recv: Standard Deviation: 0.000719
0.7 micron stdev seems pretty good to me...
I feel your pain.
Have you tried locating the print in other sections of the bed? This would tell you if the problem is only at some locations on your bed.
I had an inductive autolevel probe that I discarded because it
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dlc60
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Printing
Bingo!
The glass plate is trying to look like a bowl. A .2mm deep bowl. Why didn't I think of that?
I built this printer from a box of parts and a step file that gave me all the parts that I had to print. Included in the box were four THICK glass plates.
It appears that these plates are of no particular pedigree and differ quite a bit from each other. The person I got the parts from had nev
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteTrakyan
Not the answer you're looking for, but try a different software. TinkerCAD may be easy to start with, but you'll quickly reach a point where it becomes really difficult to make what you want because tinkerCAD isn't made for complex or precise items.
Very true, TinkerCAD is not precision. However, neither are our hobby printers! You can make some really good parts with it though -
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dlc60
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3D Design tools
I'll see if I can gen up some traffic on this list...
I have found a few Robotis Bioloid biped parts and part files on Thingiverse, but not all of them. Does anyone know if such things can still be found?
If not, I suppose that I can just craft up some of my own for a unique look anyway... But if anyone has any pointers, it would save some time doing all of the measuring to get the right hole
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dlc60
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Robots!
Here is one for you.
I have a Cartesian bed 300mm printer with a 5mm thick glass plate on top of it that appears to be concave in shape with respect to the nozzle. Yup, all four corners are "higher" than the middle.
This is a traditional Cartesian, X and Y are on a gantry and the Z is moved up and down with ball screws.
So, the only thing that I can think of is that the gantry holding the 'X' ca
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dlc60
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Reprappers
I agree with MKSA on this one.
I had to put up breeze walls and 2/3 cover my printer with a black trash bag to keep a high enough temperature in my printer volume to print ABS objects of any decent size from warping and pulling off the bed - no matter what bed adhesion I used.
Now I use PETG, stronger, more stable than ABS and it doesn't stink...
DLC
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dlc60
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Printing
Well,
You might get lucky and actually get some customer support. Yeah, I know "what ARE you thinking?!". You might get lucky and they can help you.
Check all your screws. A buddy just got a Creality Pro printer. The build quality was not all that great and he had to adjust a lot of screws until it was all solid and square.
DLC
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dlc60
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Printing
Quotenukes88
I searched all the common printing issues and didn't find a solution to this, I recently rebuilt my printer because it was all out of alignment and the frame was kinda wonky. Did 2 prints and both came like this I used cura and only tweaked the temps and slowed the appeal down a little. It is pri twd in and and infill 30% honeycomb.
Any help is appreciated
Thank you in advance
Inte
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dlc60
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Printing
Quotejjfromwa
Hello all,
I have an Ender 3 made by Sainsmart and I have recently upgraded the extruder and hotend to be a titan Aero v6, and flashed the firmware to vanilla Marlin with the Ender 3 preset. Upon installing the new firmware, I have been running into trouble with the printer not reading the temperature correctly. When I heat it to 100 C, it actually heats to around 70 c, and then rep
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dlc60
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Printing
Quoteimqqmi
Yeah it should heat quicker than that. Is the hot end heater led turned on or blinking when it's more than 10 degrees from the set point? If it's blinking, it's not using the full power of the power supply to heat up to within 10 degrees of the set point.
Did you save the pid settings after autotuning?
I coded them into the configuration.h file.
But, after what I have been reading
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteDancer
I once had a very similar looking problem.
It was the heatbreak not beeing secured in the cold end.
Nozzle, heatblock, and heatbreak were tight as they should, but heatbrake was loose in the cooling fins.
Mine is tight at both ends (I thought of this too, as I have seen it happen before). It just seems like the hot end cannot deal with any back pressure, setting it a little closer
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dlc60
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Printing
QuoteDancer
There is defenitly something in EEPROM if you did not initalize.
With MEGA2560 I know that EEPROM contains "FF" when fresh - so usually maximum (depending on data type)
Well, the problem appears to be resolved. No more heater failures.
I am not happy with the PID tune on the hot end though, it is REALLY slow to heat up, about 1 degree C per second, which is way slower than my others
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteDancer
With Marlin it is always a good Idea if you add or remove a feature to reset EEPROM - save-places seem to change when different features are enabled.
If you change Version it is absolutely neccesary to always reset EEPROM.
That is a really good point. I have never used the EEPROM specifically. That doesn't mean that nothing is in there...
DLC
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Quoteimqqmi
I also suspect it's the extruder slipping or a half blocked nozzle, motor skipping steps, filament being blocked, constricted, entangled and/or moisture in the filament, bubbles in the filament or inconsistent diameter. Maybe the hobbed bolt is crammed full of plastic and losing grip. Try swapping out the stepstick.
And seeing the bottom of the print there's quite a bit of backlash/c
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dlc60
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Printing
Quoteimqqmi
I had a similar if not the same issue with an old marlin 1.0 installation that I upgraded to 1.1.9. Bed PID would heat up to the set temperature and when the hotend kicked in, the heater for the bed turned off and got a failure.
I asked about this in the marlin github issue tracker. The solution is to reset the eeprom:
Use M502 (reset firmware to factory default) followed by M500 (s
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteSupraGuy
That looks a lot like what my I3 started doing before I scrapped it.
Mine had the additional complication just before then of forgetting how to print a circle, but that was a more simple matter that the belt holder on the Y axis was doing something weird, and I was able to fix that.
I would suspect some issues with the extruder for the blobbing and layer issues that your print sho
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dlc60
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Printing
I have had this printer for about a year now, and initially it printed fabulously. In the last two months that has all changed, without me changing a thing.
Really, I haven't so much as tightened a belt (they are all just fine, incidentally). I have been using 3D printers for almost two years now, and built several. This one has me stumped.
I use CURA 3.4 and Simplify3D 4.1.1 as my slicer/prin
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dlc60
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Printing
Quotechoochooboy123
Thank you guys so much for the help! After inverting the z-axis end stop logic in the configuration.h file as suggested it finally started to work properly. As of posting this i am doing some test prints to see its capabilities. Once again, thanks for all your help.
Good job, well done. 3D printer kits are at the same time, fun and frustrating. But, then you can make stuff
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dlc60
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Reprappers
Spoke too soon. The problem has been reduced, but not eliminated. I continue to search for the answer that will give me reliable heaters in Marlin 1.1.8.
I can always revert to the older 1.x firmware and live without the front panel display if I get too frustrated with it.
I will post when I find the final solution.
thanks,
DLC
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dlc60
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Reprappers
QuoteSacramento
Hi Gaz3 and Geball
I had the same problem and solved it by going to config adv and changed the following settings:
#define WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD 40 //seconds
#define WATCH_TEMP_INCREASE 4 //ºC
#define WATCH_BED_TEMP_PERIOD 90 //seconds
#define WATCH_BED_TEMP_INCREASE 2 //ºC
If you increase WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD by 50 or 60% your problem is fixed
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dlc60
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Firmware - Marlin