I think you should set the Z to 0.5mm/sec and see what happens. If it solves the problem you can try increasing the rate.by MCcarman - Printing
No expert but:- Which is the Z home rate? 100mm/sec is fast. Don't forget you just upped the steps per mm. Could be the the steps are now so fast the motor can't respond. This is Z so I would expect homing to be nearer 1mm/sec.by MCcarman - Printing
Since no one else replied:- I haven't seen this issue but have had some models sliced and noticed some gaps. I was slicing from Repetier and noticed in the communication box at the bottom there were error messages being reported from Slicer. I changed a few dimension on the model and it was OK. I suspect that there are occasions where dimensions dont add up for Slicer. Im talking fractions of mm.by MCcarman - Printing
Looks like your glass plate is resting on the bolt heads for the bed. This is causing an air gap to the hot bed so it wont do much when turned on. I suggest you get a smaller glass plate that fits between the fixings and rests on the bed. Then glue or clip them together. Others here can probably provide other solutions. You may also find it usefull to set the "lift on move" settings in the slicerby MCcarman - Printing
Not an expert but since no one has replied:- i can't see the code to change the old tool to new and vise-versa. So at the end of the change code it still uses the same tool.by MCcarman - General
What is the connection between the lead screw and the motor? looks a bit like something is winding up then suddenly releasing. If the bed is not free to slide in Z and the connector is of the flexible type it might be winding up the connector until the load is high enough to release. If you have the flexible spiral type connector I suggest making sure the motor is pulling the connector around wiby MCcarman - Printing
Check the max temperature limit set in the firmware?by MCcarman - Printing
As Dust implied - we don't know what your machine looks like so its not clear what "nut" you are talking about. We assume you are talking about the "nut" on the Z axis. Is that true? Are the "nuts" on the bottom of the X axis ? The top of the "threaded" Z rods should not be constrained. Yes its best to have a small gap between the end of the "threaded" Z rod and the motor shaft. Metal for Z "nutsby MCcarman - Printing
Any update Martin ? Its nice to know when people fix things and can share the solution and the cause. Incidently, I do agree it may be a software issue. I base this on the fact that the shift is not the same on the left and right of the image. That means the distance traveled is changing. But its not random. So i would disagree that its only doing it once. It does the left once but repeatedly onby MCcarman - Printing
I think you origin is wrong. Should be the offset you quoted for home so X = 13.5, Y = 31. The height difference between the home point and the bed is defined as a Z offset in the slicer. This is used to generate the Gcode for the print. Your start code doesn't afect the print unless you rezero any parameters. In your case this doesnt happen so your issues are probobly in the slicer settings. Wheby MCcarman - Printing
Normaly 0.1mm would be almost pointless - as MechaBits implies. If it gives that much difference in the print you probably have another issue. For example:- The extruder feed rate is not calibrated correctly (steps per mm) and you have compensated by changing the flow rate multiplier. Your 0.1mm retraction then gets converted by the calibration to a different value such as 1mm (factor of 10 out =by MCcarman - Printing
Assuming this is a direct extruder. Might be worth a good look at the extruder mounting. If the hot end throat is close to the gear maybe when the bed moves in Y the nozle catches, tilts the extruder and the throat hits the gear making it jamb and miss.by MCcarman - Printing
Any chance there are seperate flow rate modifiers for each extruder? If not in the firmware maybe in your slicer.by MCcarman - Printing
Seems your homing to max max. Normally 0,0 is front left. You can have the homing switches in the max, max position but you have to set the positions to the max values not zero. This may be why its getting confused.by MCcarman - General
Don't forget to check the screws are tight. Also have a close look for cracks in the printed components.by MCcarman - Printing
If it was the extruder i would have expected it to be in both directions. Does it change with print speed? Is the bed oscilating in the X direction while it moves in Y.by MCcarman - General
Don't know anything about these machines but i guess we all start from the basics. Home the z axis and check its zero. Concern will then be that the Z axis calibration is correct. Its supposed to be correct out the box. Might need to be clear on what the config file does. Might be called that on the screen but may not be the firmware configuration. Don't know how it drives the z axis but check tby MCcarman - Printing
As your description of the issue is based on the extrusion quality you should also think about the hot end. Anything reducing the nozle tip temperature (distance from the heater cartridge), airflow around the nozle, may thicken the filament. Extrusion speed increases may reduce heating time. Loose thermister.by MCcarman - Printing
I would double check the firmware. Probably do another compile and flash. Do an errase 1st. I can't envisage anything mechanical causing this. Since the GCODE is OK i would be looking for some thing in the firmware making it do this. I don't think its the buffer as that just holds the GCODE instruction which should be "go from perimeter to perimeter at speed X + Extrude Y amount at speed Z". Notby MCcarman - Printing
Haven't tried this but it might help. Slic3r allows you to pull in a model, overlay a sperate model and specify different parameters where they over lap. So you could try using a model of the funnel with the bottom 3mm as solid. Overlay a cylinder on the bottom 3mm bore where you want the screen and specify your 1mm line spacing. Also you can generate a similar screen just using the infill (aboutby MCcarman - Printing
I would check your Z steps per mm. And you may aswell check the extruder aswell. Check the Z offset for the 1st layer. You can have an error in the z offset that can caus a good squished 1st layer but the error causes issues on the 2nd layer, and possibly the 3rd. After that all the layers are the same. From the picture you have a very thin 1st layer then a large 2nd layer so i think the z calibrby MCcarman - Printing
Hi Mogul. Just wanted to be clear if you changed the extruder steper. The OP said you changed the stepers and then the problem started. But we tend to think of the X, Y, z stepers and forget the extruder. So i wanted to be clear if it changed. If it didn't change then that should not be the problem. I wanted to confirm if solid infill was an issue although I assume the solid (first layer) is OK aby MCcarman - Printing
Did you change the steper on the extruder? Its increadably consistant. Which direction is the head moving when it leaves gaps? (In picture, left to right or right to left, or both). Looks like some walls have the issue in the opposite direction but doesn't have a complete break. I assume the solid infill is OK. Is there any retraction going on. Have you reset the current seting on the drivers? Iby MCcarman - Printing
I had a slightly similar issue. Measured the filament and found it was 1.7mm instead of 1.75. Set the flow multiplier on the printer to 105% and the problem is gone. The correct fix is to change the filament size in the slicer but this is a good way to get a quick confirmation by reprinting an item with the same Gcode. Filament size can vary over the length so recheck when problems occur. Note, tby MCcarman - Printing
Note that the PSU shows the total available power across all outputs. The 12V lines are only rated to 19amps . 19 x 12 = 228watts. That sounds enough but if you run a hot bed at 130 watts plus 3 hot ends at 30watts thats 130 + 90 =220 so you are borderline given you still have to run the controller, motor, fans. Also you have a current limit on the control board so you need to check the driver iby MCcarman - Printing
Can you confirm this is infill and not designed in ribing. If infill what settings are you using. Rectilinear would be a continuouse extrusion from one edge to the other. if its designed ribing then the extusion would be between each rib so the issue may be at the start or end of a run. (Retraction, acceleration settings etc).by MCcarman - Printing
I see:- small spike at -12 which may be the start of the issue. At -9 the temp jumps up about 20C. This is wrong as temperature can't rise that fast. Can't be a loose thermister as temperature would drop. Can't be open circuit thermister as it would go to max temperature. 30secs later the temperature drops to the correct value. I think imqqmi's point is valid but unclear as the temperature dropby MCcarman - Printing
150 seems low even for PLA. If memory serves others are running between 180 and 205. M104 S150 is ok to start heating the extruder while you wait for the bed but M109 should be the extrusion temperature. (M109 S190) This is the start code only. What follows is the GCODE generated by the slicer so you need to make sure the temperatures are correct in those settings.by MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants
As you haven't said how you level the bed i assume its auto bed leveling. So in the firmware are the home switches set to physical stops? That will prevent the grinding if the bed is lower than the stops. If they are not physical stops then you can run the nozzle lower than the home switches. In this case we should check the auto level is saving to the firmware and that you have the correct offseby MCcarman - Prusa i3 and variants