IIRC the shock you can get from TVs is them getting statically charged, used to happen to me with old CRTs but I haven't noticed it much with LCD/LED monitors. Anyways, it sounds like your frame isn't grounded, and a wire somewhere is making it live. 8V is normal-ish I guess, from capacitive coupling and the likes. 30V is pushing it. Are the motors connected to the part of the frame that gets elby Trakyan - General
Out of curiosity, what's the advantage over just jogging the cable between two axles like in the original design? It just seems like this would be harder to string.by Trakyan - Mechanics
How did you test the driver? Also, does the stepper work when it's not under load (mounted in the extruder)? It sounds like a stalled stepper skipping steps to me. You can also do some continuity testing with a multimeter to check for open circuits, and then check the winding resistance to check for shorts.by Trakyan - General
I can't explain why it's happening only on the first pass, I can speculate but it would mostly be crazy scenarios leading to inconsistent results, which do happen but are usually "never would have guessed" type scenarios. Also, can you describe in some more detail how it is failing? Is it pausing in the middle of the bed leveling sequence when it hits a troublesome spot? Is it crashing into theby Trakyan - General
Bigger pulleys lower your torque, meaning you'll need to lower your acceleration and go slower. The rotor inertia is typically fairly small compared to the mass of your gantry and carriages. They also lower your resolution. May I ask how fast you are going that the toolhead's speed in XY is your limiting factor? Belt driven systems are already pretty fast. Want to go really fast? Use servos andby Trakyan - General
The picture you posted earlier in the thread shows a flat on the motor shaft (for a grub screw). Out of curiosity, any idea why the aluminium would be making black dust? I'd expect it to make a grey dust, and the black to be from the coating. That being said if the hole is noticeably out of round there must be aluminium in there somewhere. Have you considered drilling out the hole a little and pby Trakyan - General
No worries, glad to hear the problem is (hopefully) resolved!by Trakyan - General
So the first pass always fails but subsequent passes work? Could it be the default state of the z end stop is wrong and it's being reset to what it should be after it fails or something of that nature? This sounds a bit too specific and consistent to me for a hardware bug (if that makes sense?). Have you tried changing the surface (i.e. not a glass plate?). I know glass is opaque to IR and allby Trakyan - General
It's not always all to do with the mass of the moving parts necessarily. Another issue is to do with the print itself moving. Shaking the print around can cause it to oscillate like a tuning fork, this is worse with taller or skinnier prints as the print will wobble on the bed and give ringing artifacts even if the bed itself is rock solid and doesn't wobble. I suggest you do a CNC router next,by Trakyan - Reprappers
The black dust, if it is aluminium, would be the stuff off the surface. The parts didn't look anodized though so I don't know what it's coated with. Is bare aluminium showing through anywhere? Perhaps the flats on the stepper shaft are slowly shaving away at the inside of the hole in the aluminium part. I've always been a bit of a skeptic of using the motor shaft directly as an idler. Even if theby Trakyan - General
Use your calipers to measure the distance between the threads, that should tell you the pitch, multiply by the number of starts to get the lead. If a metric nut fits I'd wager it's metric. That thread looks trapezoidal to me from the pictures, and if memory serves metric and imperial trapezoidal threads use a different included angle on the trapezoids (not to mention different pitch) so I doubtby Trakyan - Mechanics
Out of curiosity, why not set it up with a z axis bed? If you take a prusa and rotate it by 90 degrees about the x axis, and again rotate the bed by 90 degrees about the x axis, that's basically what you'd get. You'd just need to build up the frame in certain areas. Ordinarily you'd end up with a funky drive system with y axis leadscrews and a belt driven Z axis, but since yours is entirely leadsby Trakyan - Reprappers
If your printer reads 130 but the actual temperature (how did you measure it?) is 200, then that's a really big problem and you should sort that out first. Check your thermistor table in firmware matches the actual thermistor you're using.by Trakyan - General
Do you let the bed cool down before removing prints? If not, then try that. Otherwise check your slicer settings to see if its overextruding the first layer deliberately to get better adhesion. If all else fails, give your print bed a quick spray with some PTFE grease, that'll solve your (current) bed adhesion problems.by Trakyan - Reprappers
I can't say I've seen that board before, and I don't really understand what that interface board does and what it interfaces with. That's a really weird board though, the Z and Y endstops are on the main board but the X axis isn't. As far as spare pins go, I'm guessing the EXT pins aren't used as there isn't a connector there, so you could use those. That being said if the manufacturer offers toby Trakyan - General
From a price perspective, it makes next to no sense. Unless you're going to be building a really niche machine (i.e. super small, super big, or with some very unique feature set), you won't get a cheaper price on components than you will on a complete chinese kit. That being said, some people find the process of building, designing and modifying a printer fun. Others just want it to work. It's sby Trakyan - General
Well then I guess we should all focus our efforts into a new 6 axis slicer since it seems thats what all the big (control)boards on the block are after I would sure love to help but I didn't pay much attention in my computer algorithms paper, I swear I learnt more during the exam trying to figure out the concepts and algorithms on the fly than I did from any of the lectures.by Trakyan - General
I wasn't so much referring to the ability to drive more than 3 axis. I was talking more about the kinematics for a 5 axis machine. For instance slicers output cartesian co-ordinates, the firmware then processes those into the appropriate step/dir signals for whatever kinematics the printer uses (cartesian, corexy, delta). Does the RRF inherently support XYZ+2 rotary axis, or a 5 axis robot arm'sby Trakyan - General
Since the endstops are confirmed working, and the result is the same with no endstop plugged in at all, I'd have to guess the connector on the board is broken. If you switch the firmware from NC to NO (or vice versa, I don't know what your current setup is) and you get the same result (except now it never triggers), I'd be almost sure it's the board having a short or open circuit between the tracby Trakyan - General
That clears up/gives a bit more info on the end stop issue (I had a bit of trouble understanding some things in the first post). Sounds like a failure of the end stop, possibly due to wire fatigue. First check to see if the endstop works correctly with a continuity tester (i.e. check that connection is established and broken as the switch gets pressed and released), then measure continuity rightby Trakyan - General
No firmware I know has support for any machine type with 5 axis kinematics, and no slicer I know supports it either. I suspect 5 axis 3D printing will make the CAM process much more similar to what CNC router currently require, where the operator will need to choose and select different toolpaths (or in this case an angle of attack for the nozzle) manualy.by Trakyan - General
Seems like your endstop might be wired NC when your controller expects NO or vice versa. Either that or a possible short/open circuit (i.e. try some continuity testing), Extruder issue seems like a faulty thermistor or a mismatched thermistor to thermistor table in firmware. 210 degrees is odd, I usually get 0 or some negative/300+ degrees from a short or open circuit on the theristor. You can tby Trakyan - General
Ahh, I see, thanks for the clarification. I think this is similar to how some lathes have their ways setup. One rail is a "fixed" or "rigid" rail, with some sort of profile for the making slide/bushing to lock onto. The second rail is a "floating" rail which has a flat surface for the other bushing/slide to rest on is just there to prevent rotation about the axis of the first rail, but the secondby Trakyan - General
Don't worry, no ones gonna get pissy about you posting to the coreXY forum. Simple mistake of chosing the wrong subforum, everyone does it. Also, on second glance, is that an H-bot? The belts don't seem to cross anywhere. Either way, cool machine. What electronics is it running? I haven't heard of trigorrila which was listed in the thingiverse description.by Trakyan - General New Machines Topics
Neat project, I'm a big fan of these sorts of machines. What exactly is the bed riding on? I see one roller bearing in one of the pictures, but if it were just pinched between two roller beari'ngs wouldn't it be prone to twisti'ng a'nd skewing?by Trakyan - General
Wouldn't that change the temperature response? Since regular resistors aren't made to work like thermistors, you'll get innacurate temperature readings which could be dangerous.by Trakyan - Reprappers
That's a real sleek looking machine, love the stealth black look. Try posting this on the corexy subforum, you might get more comments and feedback as it's a bit more active.by Trakyan - General New Machines Topics
100 prints is a pretty short lifespan for something like the wiring on the Z axis, especially since it only really moves up and down once per print. I3 style machines with a heatbed stress the cables several orders of magnitude more than a Z axis bed would and they print more than 100 prints usually. I've been intrigued by lifting the gantry rather than the bed, but it always seems a bit sloppieby Trakyan - CoreXY Machines
By burn in I just meant put it to use, not with abrasive paste. Let any bumps/high spots wear in. That being said I doubt it would be a good idea if there is a defect to the point you can see it with the naked eye. Not sure if that's recoverable.by Trakyan - Mechanics
Try doing a burn in, run the carriages over the guides for a while and they might end up running more smoothly after the first few hours.by Trakyan - Mechanics