Hey there I just switched my X and Y stepper motor drivers from A4988 to TMC2100. But now I experience layer shifting (only in Y direction). - I set the TMC drivers to spreadCycle Mode - I set the motor current first to 0.7 A which was what the A4988 were set to Then I got layer shifting and therefore set it to 1 A and reduced the Acceleration to 1000mm/s^2 (2000 max) and jerk to 10 The motor isby Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics
It worked 2 months with the new cables...by Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics
So i tried the second display: did not work properly either just flickering or resetting (but somehow I could heat up the nozzle to 180 degrees but when I inserted the SD card the printer resetted itself) Then I tried to run the printer from my laptop after disconnecting the display cables from the board: it started up but it did not respond to any command... So do I have to get a new board? Itsby Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics
I will try when I am home from work thanks This morning I tried it with the stock ribbon cables (I one needed longer ones so I ordered them in 26AWG instead of 28AWG in order to compensate for higher conductor resistance) but it made no difference so its not the cables. I have another display to which I will try in the evening. Quoteo_lampe The 5V regulator seems to pass out from overheating...by Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics
Hey there, I today switched the mount for my reprapdiscount smart controller display of my Flsun cube and after I did this and turned on the printer again it started behaving wierd: -on the first attempt the display just started flickering (on and off) and the printer did not start up (caselight did not turn on) -on the second attempt the display didnt do anything at all -then after some retrieby Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for the suggestions I will look which one fits best for me. I also heard of superseal plugs which a friend of me is using. Maybe I will use industrial standard micro round connectors for the x endstop, the z probe and the two thermistors which would need 9 pins in total And for the hotends and the fans the molex or superseal plugs which will need 5 pins (4 ground wires for the fans will beby Schild0r - General
Quotedc42The usual choice is Molex Microfit 3.0 series connectors. One disadvantage of these is that the pins are impossible to remove from the shells without a special tool. Exactly what I had in my mind I just did not know how the plug from a graphics card is called. With remove you mean disassembling the wires from the plug once they are connected? Do you need a special tool to connect the wby Schild0r - General
Hey guys, My printer has just destroyed its hotend now I have to change the heater cartrige which is quite annoying. So i thought of putting a plug between everything which is connected from hotend to the board. Has anyone of you done that or thought of doing that too? Which plugs would you use? I am thinking of a bigger one with 4 wires for the two hotends (which get about 3 amps) and a secondby Schild0r - General
Yes I loaded the part into S3D and sliced it again and loaded it on the sd card and left the sd card in for a minute to make sure I did not pull it out too quickby Schild0r - General
Hey there, My printer (FLsun Cube) does wierd stuff during prints since yesterday: It often just stops printing, moves away from the print to a random location and does nothing. One time the bed moved all the way down and the motors kept turning and turning. Another time it crashed the print into the nozzle without any reason. Everything happened after starting a printjob from SD card sometime aby Schild0r - General
Okay I just noticed that I do not need to disable the "Augumentation for auto-assigning RAMPS plugs" section if I set a MOSFET_D_PIN. I also noticed that the way it is done in the original firmware is not as smart as my way (by simply adding #define HEATER1_PIN 7 into the EFB configuration section) And I noticed that basically all you have to do to apply the settings as it is meant to be done isby Schild0r - Firmware - Marlin
Hey there, I've got a FLsun Cube and got it with a single extruder but I want to implement a second extruder. The printer uses the MKS GEN_L V1.0 Board which actually has two heater ports but uses the RAMPS 14 configuration. I normally like modifying my Marlin FW but I only adjust values and do not change the code itself untill now... So my question is the following: Does anyone know how the seby Schild0r - Firmware - Marlin
I do not own or have access to a cnc so making the parts out of alu would cost more than the printer. The design of zelogik was originally designed for metal but jand adapted it for printed parts. There are some people using this design with printed parts. And it also looks very stable (but also more bulky than hypercube). I ve heard a lot good things about petg and was just wondering wheather thby Schild0r - General
Hey there, I own an FLsun Cube which has a very large build platform (300*300) but I dont like it's kinematics because it has to move the x motor. So i want to build a CoreXY (design from Zelogik/jand) out of it which does not need so much parts and seems very feasable for me. So i used to print everything out of PLA and got good parameters for that. But i wanted to make the parts for the CoreXby Schild0r - General
It is one of these: But mine is blue. Its a SN04-n NPN NOby Schild0r - General
Hey there, I got the problem that everytime I do auto bed levelling I will have a slightley different detection range of my z probe (but within the leveling procedure it seems like it stays the same). It behaves like this: 1. I start the gcode from SD 2. the printer homes all axis and starts auto leveling (before heating either nozzle or bed) 3. the printer will return to X30 Y30 Z0 in order toby Schild0r - General
Quote2. Reduce the maximum SPI clock rate that your firmware uses. Isnt that what I did by uncommenting the line #define SPI_SPEED SPI_EIGHTH_SPEED? I will look for a 26awg 10 pin cable but those are wider aren't they? Or can I use the same connectors as with the 28awg flat cables? But thanks for the infoby Schild0r - General
I already tried wrapping aluminium foil around the cables but it did not help..by Schild0r - General
Hey there, I like to have my cables organized. But the wires from my board (mks gen L) to my controller (reprapdiscount smart controller) are very short so I bought longer ones. I have a big machine so the short wires were 60cm and the new long ones are 120cm. The problem: When I connect both long wires to the board and the lcd I will get a SD init fail means the lcd recognizes the inserted SDby Schild0r - General
I dont load them into Slic3r I load them into Repetier where I can position them as I want (even in z direction)by Schild0r - Printing
Update: I checked my Firmware and noticed that I have not defined any Offset for my second nozzle there. But it was defined in Slic3r and in Repetier. So I set it to zero in Repetier but the behaviour is just the same as before...by Schild0r - Printing
Thanks this is quite helpful Does that also apply for firmware, slicer and repetier (that the part may be shifted not only once but twice)? So I have to remove the offset settings out of repetier AND the firmware? By the way: does this also apply to the bed shape? (Because I set the bed shape in Repetier and in Slic3r) But I had two skirt Lines and both were of the same color and the "tool chanby Schild0r - Printing
Hey there, I just finished my project in which I added a second extruder to my printer. So now I wanted to do a print job, consisting of two parts. So I put the parts in Repetier Host, positioned them (one part has to be on top of the other part), sliced them with Slic3r with my settings and got a fine preview (see attached file). I then started the print and recognized a few "things" 1. Afterby Schild0r - Printing
Ich verstehe was du meinst Okay ich hab einen Weg vor Augen den ich gerne gehen würde. Ich würde gerne die erste Bewegung aus dem eigentlichen print gcode von cura in Slic3r implementieren, ich müsste also den gcode in Slic3r dahingehend modifizieren, dass er die Bewegung zum ersten Punkt vom Bauteil (wo er anfängt zu extrudieren) schon im Start gcode stehen hat, weil er dann die beiden ersten Zeby Schild0r - Software
First of all thanks for your answer. I know a bit about gcodes but this movement I am referring to is the first line of gcode of the actual print code (after the start gcode). I was just wondering if there are variables for the coordinates of the point where extruding begins so I would be able to move there already in my start gcode which would make the first two lines of the print gcode redundaby Schild0r - General
Hey there, I like Slic3r very much but there is one thing I want to change and I wanna know wheather this is possible: When I print a part sliced by Cura, the first movement (after heating is done) is a linear movement to the point on the platform, where the printer starts extruding (for example "G1 X50 Y40 Z0.2"). This movement is done by all three axis simultaniously. But when I print a partby Schild0r - General
Das was ich meine steht im start gcode nicht drin. Der start gcode ist bei mir zwei zeilen (G28; home all axis G1 Z15 F5000; lift nozzle)der geht also nur bis unmittelbar vorm Aufheizen der düse.by Schild0r - Software
Hallo zusammen, Ich bin ein großer Fan von Slic3r, da freeware und viele Einstellmöglichkeiten. Ich greife eher selten zu Cura (meist aus dem Grund, dass ich für Supports einstellen kann, dass diese nur auf dem Druckbett sind) Dennoch gefällt mir die erste Bewegung beim Druck bei Cura besser... Ich meine damit folgendes: In Slic3r: Nach dem Heizen fährt die Düse erst auf Z0.2 und dann auf Xb Ybby Schild0r - Software
Sorry für die verspätete Antwort war mit klausuren beschäftigt. Okay danke erstmal für die Antwort. Ich hatte noch die Vermutung, dass es mit der Spannung meines y-Riemens zusammen hängen könnte und habe diese jetzt mal verstärkt (vorher hat der u.U. schonmal "gezittert") morgen werde ich mal sehen ob das etwas verbessert hat. Trotzdem ne Frage: hat jemand schonmal festgestellt, dass er bei versby Schild0r - Mechanik
Glückauf! Ich hab heute bei einem Modell beobachten können, dass ich leichte "Überhöhungen" (siehe Foto unten links) an den Enden kurzer, rechtwinkliger Konturlinien habe. Ich habe mir gedacht, dass dies sicher an dem y-Beschleunigungswert liegen könnte (Beschleunigung der Plattform, auf welcher auch das Bauteil aufgebaut wird). Ich habe dann also den Wert von 3000 auf 1500 herabgesetzt und konnby Schild0r - Mechanik