I did find the solution. The problem was in the servo for the auto level sensor arm. The servo went on my. When I disconnected it, the problem went away. I now have a new servo and everything is working fine. Now my issue is getting Marlin to flash to the board. It was working after the correction, then it wouldn't flash although Arduino would say it had, and now Arduino just gives me errors whenby dtiger1138 - Prusa i3 and variants
I seem to be having temperature issues all of a sudden. I'd been printing the past couple of days without any problem. I have an He3d RepRap Prusa i3, with a E3d v6 hotend. I'm using Repiter to control the printer. The last print I tried to do, I noticed some oddities. The temperature of the hot end did not reach temperature. It was set to 175 and it reached 168, or something like that. I had theby dtiger1138 - Prusa i3 and variants
I ended up changing the G-code for start up to include a standard G28, and it homed all axis fine. I'll check those settings. Thank you o_lampe. I did a test print to calibrate my steppers for the axis. Then on the 2nd print, got a nozzel jam. Now they are sitting in the acetone. Deaconfrost, I tried to beat you too it. Marlin 1.1 zip is a little to big. 1.03 is the last official release, 1.1 iby dtiger1138 - General
Well, did a test print and it worked fine. only thing was I didn't make sure to extrude some filament before running, but it still came out fine. When I ran just a normal G28, it worked fine. everything moved to the center of the bed to 0 the Z. But when I got that error, it was right after 0ing the X and Y. Might that be the reason? This was all with marlin 1.0.2. Just gonna make sure this wby dtiger1138 - General
Quotedeaconfrost What happens if you click the home all button in repetier instead of individual homing? I actually tried that yesterday. One of the last things I did. It tried to home Z with out the servo and endstop, as if it was mounted on the rail without the auto leveling set up. Pushed the nozzel into the bed. Gonna give it a try again today, I'll update this with what happens Update: Weiby dtiger1138 - General
I'm about ready to bang my head against the wall. What's happening now is that I do a G29 or a G20 Z0 command, and nothing moves. I've recompiled marlin, and uploaded it. I even tried Marlin 1.1 and had the same result. Almost seriously considering going back to manually doing things. It worked once I had gotten it set up, as in it would do the commands, but now, it doesn't. Update: In Ponterfacby dtiger1138 - General
I've been using the most recent marlin or what I thought was the most recent from their github, 1.0.2. I've attached the configuration.h file. Now this gets annoying. I just turned it all on, and ran a G28 through ponterface, and it worked. Going to try another print, I use repiter for that and slic3r. Using the recent versions of those, 1.5.4 and 1.2.9 respectively. Thank youby dtiger1138 - General
Quotedeaconfrost is your hotend 0.1mm behind the nozzle, just make it 0, and if you get problem with x, make that 30, the decibel can be your problem, it was in my case, only on z it will accept decibel, mine is 0.7mm, I just made it 1 and all works well. also if you get problem with it printing in mid air, comment out #define Z_RAISE_AFTER_PROBING, in the slicer g-code, whichever you using, instby dtiger1138 - General
Quotethetazzbot There is no way your probe could be Y -.10 mm from your hot end. I suggest you revisit how you came by that number. it is the position of the probe in relation to the nozzle tip. So, usually you mount the probe to the side, and in front or back of the nozzle. I used E3D V6 Wowden mount with servo to mount my set up. That's where the switch ended up. I just got back from a vacaby dtiger1138 - General
I've just put an autoleveling rig on my printer. I had been following ZenmasterM's guides on youtube, Part 3 of Guide. Part 3 is where you figure out what the offset is for the switch and the nozzel, then enter it into Marlin's cofiguration.h file. I did this and got a "floating constant in preprossor expression" error. I followed all the directions in the guide, and I'm unsure of what to do nowby dtiger1138 - General
I plan on upgrading my generic hot end to an E3d v6. But the question is the 12v or 24v ones. I have a 24v power supply. I think that would mean I'd need the 24v one. I'm I correct with my logic? Thanksby dtiger1138 - General
I've just started having this problem with my prusa i3. Got all the other kinks worked out, and now the tube won't stay in. I like the idea of using the pneumatic connector, but i don't know the size or what I should be looking for. I'm new to all of this. Still have yet to actually print something. It uses 1.74mm filament. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Edit/Update:by dtiger1138 - Ormerod
Thank you gforce1. now i know exactly what i'm looking for. Just I don't need 500 of them, unless I plan on making a whole bunch of printers. And a pair of pliers won't work for the crimping?by dtiger1138 - General Mendel Topics
I've been working on my Prusa now for a while. 1st issue I had was that some of the smooth rods were the wrong size. The company sent new ones, but only 2, 3 were to big. Also, there were crimp on ends for the electrical that they did not have with the printer. They show them in pictures and such. I've been looking for them online but can't seem to find them. The company has offered to send them,by dtiger1138 - General Mendel Topics
Thanks guys. I did contact the seller, and they are sending out new rods. I did check the rods and they passed the roll test. It's just when I put any of the bearings on the "bad" rods, they basically don't move, and when I do, they are hard to move. But when I put them on the "good" rod, they move just fine. They actually slide freely. I did test all of the bearings this way. I did loose ballsby dtiger1138 - Reprappers
I purchased a He3D Prusa i3 recently, and the assembly has been a headache. The "detailed instructions" are a series of videos that leave and miss things, and the company's customer service can be a little touchy. Anyway, my current issue is with the smooth rods that it came with. the bearings don't freely slide on 3 of the rods. They feel like they bind up. If I just hold the rod verticle, the bby dtiger1138 - Reprappers