Show all posts by user

Bed not turning on, but fan does. Even switched pins - 6 years ago

I am having an odd problem rebuilding a printer in getting the bed to start. It has Marlin and a new RAMPS 1.4. I got an old SSR to control the bed as the RAMPS 1.4 I replaced started to smoke and go black around the contactors. I got the nozzle working and calibrated, but the bed does not seem to turn on with 0V going to the D8. The LED doesn't turn on. I tried a M106 S255 to turn on the D9 an

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Reprogramming Mega Ramps 1.4, hung up on Connecting... - 6 years ago

mjf55, Ha! I was running around and reading forums for a while. I was missing a zero on the baud rate! It was a case of I needed someone else to point it out. Thanks! Still stuck with M21 replying with 'echo: SD init fail'. I've been going through tutorials on how to get that to work, but no solid info when it doesn't run. I pulled the old SD card reader off of my Mendle, made sure the right o

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Reprogramming Mega Ramps 1.4, hung up on Connecting... - 6 years ago

Hello RepRap First, the problem. I am having a hangup after I uploaded the latest Marlin. When I try to connect via Pronterface, the Mega blinks 3 times, but all Pronterface shows is 'Connecting...' and does not budge. Or hasn't for the last 5 minutes. I also tried in Simply 3D's Machine Control Panel that tried plain text, binary, and alternative communication protocols that all didn't work. T

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Permanent Marker Coloured Filament - 9 years ago

I was reading the latest Make magazine and there was an odd idea that works on page 77. I am wondering if anyone else has done this. Take clear filament and paint it with a permanent marker to make different colours. They have some proof of concepts where they made rainbow coloured parts. I have also seen printers that state how long of each plastic and will cut the plastic to length, in more a c

by BlenderGuy - Developers

Re: Rafting and support not being generated as desired in Sli3er - 10 years ago

I found a semi-solution. I made Slicer force to support the first 300 layers. That makes everything supported, which is good, kinda.

by BlenderGuy - Printing

Re: Is there a way to keep the heatbed heated after printing? - 10 years ago

You can add some G-code (final tab in Sli3er) to make it stay hot. Look up what the G-code is, add it. That should do the trick. Or you could manually add it to your G-code file.

by BlenderGuy - Printing

Re: Rafting and support not being generated as desired in Sli3er - 10 years ago

TheReprapExperience, Thanks, I did try that. Pillars was one of my latter selections. I usually do Rectilinear. No significant change Also tried removing "Don't Support Bridgees". No change

by BlenderGuy - Printing

Rafting and support not being generated as desired in Sli3er - 10 years ago

Hello, I have had difficulty with getting support to work on this model and would like some suggestions on how to fix this. The key issue is that the support makes towers. These towers have a small footprint and break off of the glass after long print times due to their thin, tall, nature. I wanted to solve this problem with a potential of 2 solutions. One was to have rafting. This would fix the

by BlenderGuy - Printing

Re: Z Feed Rate Overriding Max Feed Rate at Start of Print - 10 years ago

found a slight solution. In Sli3er, the extra G commands in the end tell the system to move to Z5, extrude a bit, then start printing. I reduced this to 1mm, and I could increase the extrusion rate. It is a patch solution. Not the type of solution I wanted though.

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Short circuit fried my laptop! - 10 years ago

What happened on one power supply I had was we burned up 3 Arduino Megas. What occurred was, inside the power supply one of the power transistors was up against the side wall of the case. This was expected as it was being used as a heat sink, but there was also an electrically insulating material between the transistor and the wall. On this power supply there was a short. The ground pin on the p

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Z Feed Rate Overriding Max Feed Rate at Start of Print - 10 years ago

I found a solution, but I still don't know why it did what it did, and I don't like the solution. I decreased the max frequency to 12500 on one printer, and 22500 on another and that is working. I brought it to the maximum frequency the motors could handle in that post-home Z motion. This does cause issues with the extrusion feed rate: the extrusion feed rate is limited by this. However, it does

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Z Feed Rate Overriding Max Feed Rate at Start of Print - 10 years ago

Home retract distance is something different. It tells the system to touch the Z end stop, move up a distance (1mm), then touch the end stop again. That is not where the issue is occurring. What happens is the printer homes the X, the Y, then the Z. After that, the carriage is moved in the Z, a short amount of plastic is retracted by the nozzle, then the carriage is lowered to the first layer he

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Z Feed Rate Overriding Max Feed Rate at Start of Print - 10 years ago

So Sprinter works fine. Just Marlin. The crux of the problem is the guy who officially owns the printer wants to put a screen on the machine, so he wants Marlin. Anyone know what that last Up/Down that occurs after Home when a print starts is called? I don't know how to search for the term.

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Z Feed Rate Overriding Max Feed Rate at Start of Print - 10 years ago

In other news, I was working on another printer from the grave. I couldn't find the firmware, and all I needed to do was change the extruder constant (got a new extruder setup). So, unable to find the old firmware, I used a brand new Marlin. Same issue as above. I will be trying to use Sprinter instead of Marlin. I will report what I find.

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Z Feed Rate Overriding Max Feed Rate at Start of Print - 10 years ago

Alas, no. That was not the issue. Looking at it closer, this is what happens: 1. Home X 2. Home Y 3. Home Z (this is doing as is expected) 4. Move up in Z rapidly (And buzzing) 5. Move down Z to the first layer height rapidly (and buzzing) When it is doing the rapid motion, it moves quickly, then buzzes. This does not move consistently, so it sometimes slams into the table or prints in air. So

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Z Feed Rate Overriding Max Feed Rate at Start of Print - 10 years ago

Thank you! Changed! I will be able to get an update on the reprap tonight.

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Z Feed Rate Overriding Max Feed Rate at Start of Print - 10 years ago

RepRap Community, Working on a reprap that has been out of commission for around a year. People have poked it, tried to get it to run, but to no avail. The issue is when a print starts, the part homes then starts printing. I press the home button in Pronterface and there is no issue. When I start a print, however, the part homes X and Y, then does Z. When it touches the Z end stop, the Z motors

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Bouncing ideas for full colour 3D printer - 10 years ago

Matt Moses, Thanks for the notes. I am looking into them. In a side note, I did an experiment. I followed these instructions And I was absolutely amazed at what happened. The instructions are simple: Mix 1 tbs corn starch, 1.5 tbs water, 3 drops oil, mix, 30 seconds in the microwave. The stuff going into the microwave is milky water, what I expected. Out of the microwave is jelly, like mucus

by BlenderGuy - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)

Bouncing ideas for full colour 3D printer - 10 years ago

I have been bouncing ideas around for a full colour 3d printer. The design is based off of the recent patent expiring for 3d printers. The concept is as follows, and is purely ideas atm. - Corn starch, when mixed with an oil or protein will form a hard plastic. A protein I am suggesting is Pectin, but I am open to other easy to acquire protein. Corn starch does not have health hazards and is eas

by BlenderGuy - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)

Re: +-0.8mm Tolerance Issues - 11 years ago

I mostly fixed my issue I now have a 0.0-0.1 oversize when outside and 0.3-0.5 undersized when on the inside of a pocket. I replaced the entire X-axis with a new design, something looking like the single piece parts of the Perusa, but using the roller bearings from the Mendle. Is there a spot in the Sli3er code where I can reduce the perimeter of an object when making G-code? I could put toleran

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: +-0.8mm Tolerance Issues - 11 years ago

Actually, I was dreaming about this last night. I may reduce the fill ratio. I think it may have been caused by the nozzle putting down too much plastic so it spread outwards to the side. I will get back on this.

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: +-0.8mm Tolerance Issues - 11 years ago

We both use Sli3er. He helped me get mine up and running and I have copied everything software wise from him

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

+-0.8mm Tolerance Issues - 11 years ago

I was making some parts and wanted to put a square dato into a square dato hole. It didn't fit. I did some measuring and came up with some odd results. All are in mm and all were supposed to fit together. I made this small shape to test some things X-Axis Distances Square Square Hole Block 4.5 5.4 14.8 15.3 24.4 25.2 Y-Axis Distances Square Square Hole

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Printer Disconnects And Not Reconnect During Printing Issue - 11 years ago

I have been having an issue. It has cropped up in the last two days. The part will start printing, print for ~45 minutes, then just cut out. The printer head stops. Printer Interface says that the part is printing, but does not change. The table and head remain at temperature. This is really dangerous as the head could start a fire if it is left just sitting there. I have some models I would like

by BlenderGuy - Printing

Re: Sucess with printing ABS on Cold Glass with Glue - 11 years ago

Thanks for the info. I want to do an experiment on this topic, but I don't know when I will have the time. I was in a discussion about it and an odd idea is to test egg whites or some other protein. When I get to it, I will post the results

by BlenderGuy - Printing

Sucess with printing ABS on Cold Glass with Glue - 11 years ago

After a long battle, I have gotten a (not my) Rep Rap working 100%. It used to have a J-Head which I did not like, but I bought a new complete head from Mix Shop. Also, the person who owns the Rep Rap bought a CubeX as the RepRap was not working and he needed parts now. This also led to him to getting supper pissed when the $4k CubeX broke one of its heads off. It did that because there is no cal

by BlenderGuy - Printing

Re: Shreading 3.0mm ABS Filament - 11 years ago

I have been able to get some very very good results, but there was another key to getting it to work. There was an issue where it was extruding too fast causing the grinding. We compared the amount of material extruded from Pronterface to reality to the other 3mm-.32mm reprap. It was with that that the proper value was found. It was extruding a little too much. These are my values for Slic3r for

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Shreading 3.0mm ABS Filament - 11 years ago

Update for those in the same boat (for those in the future) I believe that Waitaki was correct. Leaving the hot end for an hour for the bed to heat up will change the plasticizers in ABS to become harder. To remove it, heat up the hot end, remove as much filament as possible, remove the hot end, then shove a 2-3mm shaft down the hole. ABS will bond to the cold metal and pull it out. Pull out unt

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Shreading 3.0mm ABS Filament - 11 years ago

No change. It is spinning/grinding the ABS still. It does not extrude. What occurs is I specify 5mm at 30mm/min. It will extrude a .32mm wire 10mm long over a period lasting 5 seconds longer than when the shaft was spinning. The filament will not go further in and stop. I am trying to find a solution. Any ideas? I have been trying for the last week or so to get this thing to work.

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers

Re: Shreading 3.0mm ABS Filament - 11 years ago

Found out something. The bolt that is the hob/gear was not aligned to the hole in the plastic. This offset the filament and caused a skew, potenially increasing the friction on the frame. I am getting a washer now.

by BlenderGuy - Reprappers