So I recently put an SKR v1.3 and TMC2225 steppers on my printer. I started getting a TMC Connection Error when starting up the printer. When I did a M122, I got an "ALL LOW" error on Z2. I swapped the driver with E0 and now I am getting ALL LOW on E0 and Z2. So I swapped again to Z1 and now all three say ALL LOW. My guess is I have a fried driver that has now fried my board but I want to coby heatvent - Reprappers
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!! Thanks for all the help ... ruling out things that were working helped me get to a good place on this. I was starting to think the bed was crap and was thinking if I need to order a different one probably just due to my pessimism on dealing with cheap items off of AliExpress. The printer is currently printing a test cube and is holding a solid temp on the bed. I manually fluxby heatvent - Reprappers
Cables are cold and I am getting 23.5v at the mosfet terminals (power and bed side) and 23.3v where the wires are soldered to the bed. I would assume the small loss in voltage is OK. I did some more testing and instead of trying to get to 60C I set the bed to 100C and it got to 60, then 70 and so on. I think this has to do with my PID settings. I had turned on PID for the bed and when I wentby heatvent - Reprappers
Hi, so this has been sitting on the back burner a while. I finally rebuilt my printer and the bed is struggling to get to 50 C with nothing else running. The bed is connected directly to the power supply with 14AWG wire through a standard external mosfet that you see everyone using (I believe these are rated up to 50V). The power supply is a cheap Chinese one with model number S-400-24. It iby heatvent - Reprappers
Very nice, I will check it out. Thanksby heatvent - General
Just one of these cheap standard power supplies.... Linkby heatvent - General
Oops ... caulked it up last night. I will keep that in mind for the future. The link for the silicone product that you posted was about 1/2 the price of the power supply, so I would probably just have used the stuff I had on hand anyway. Thanks though, good information to know.by heatvent - General
Good news, I was able to get the wires extended just enough to solder back in the holes after removing the solder with a solder sucker. I have the supply back together and tested it out. No white smoke and 24.18V coming out the other end! Only step left is to secure the inductor back down to the board. I have some 100% Silicone Caulk (like this ). Just want to double check to make sure thiby heatvent - General
I agree, it's half the fun. I also couldn't see just throwing this in the trash. Although most of my 3D printing hobby seems to be working on the printer and printing stuff for it rather than anything else QuoteRoberts_Clif This style power supplies are not to complex as far as switching power supplies go. An Input A Switching circuit An Output Shown below in this super simple switching suby heatvent - General
Thanks, that's kinda what I figured. We'll see if I can get these back in their respective holes on the mainboard.by heatvent - General
Thanks for the info. I think I will try the desolder and get it to reach approach first. Maybe I will get lucky. Just checking on this but it's not a good idea to unwind one loop rather than extend the end. I am not too knowledgeable of electronics and I am sure this would weaken what the inductor does but I am thinking it may still function well enough ... or is this a no-no?by heatvent - General
Here you go. The pictures are from both sides. You can see the broken wire and the hole it should go into. It's a bit tight of a fit so I may need to unsolder the whole inductor, extend the leads and then resolder? I have liquid electrical tape that I could use to seal when done and silicone caulk to hold in place.by heatvent - General
I have a 24V power supply that seems to have taken a hit in shipping and the inductor has come loose off the board. The legs have broken at the bottom in two spots. Is there an easy way to repair this possibly. I could possibly solder to the same holes in the board that still have part of the leg. I could desolder and maybe unwind a bit of wire and make longer legs which should be easier to rby heatvent - General
Thanks, when you say proper protections, I use an MKS board, external mosfet and Marlin (thermal runaway protection). Is there something else that should be added? Thank youby heatvent - Reprappers
So my multimeter is reading 2.2 ohms of resistance. So using your formula(s): (24 * 24)/2 = ~260W Does this make sense for a 24V bed?by heatvent - Reprappers
Thanks for the information, I will get out the multimeter and give it a try. Re: the LED's any specific type will work. I assume these are some type of onboard PCB type but not sure of what I am looking for. Thanksby heatvent - Reprappers
I ordered a MK2A 300mm bed off of Aliexpress and came up with a few questions after receiving. They sold both 12 and 24V, I asked for a 24V and I am wondering if I can verify it is actually 24V somehow (there are no markings indicating this). Or did I get scammed and these are 12V and you can run 24V through them although not rated for that? There are also no markings on the solder pads. Doesby heatvent - Reprappers
Any luck getting this to work?by heatvent - Controllers
So I disabled and enabled a bunch of stuff in my firmware to get an idea of memory cost. I used marlin 1.1.9 and arduino 1.8.4 on an Anet v1.0 board with optiboot flashed Total available memory 130048 Base FW with no LCD, chitchat disabled, SD card disabled, bilinear enabled and probe enabled. 75844 Cost of items / features Enabling Basic LCD 20344 Enabling SD card 1by heatvent - Firmware - Marlin
So here is where I landed... I have the orange version of the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX sensor. The 5V seems to power it just fine wiring black to signal, brown to 5V power, and blue to ground. When signal is tripped I get about 3V on signal which is about perfect. Mine needed to be adjusted for sensitivity and apparently turning the POT screw on the top of the sensor counterclockwise increases the sensby heatvent - General
Thanks for the reply. FYI no dim light for me it's just off and on when triggered. Can you give me an idea how the sensitivity adjustment screw works. I turned it about 11 times and it doesn't seem to stop anywhere and also doesn't seem to affect the sensitivity. There are no indicators on the top to show how this should work. For example turning right is more sensitive or less sensitive… Noby heatvent - General
Thanks for the reply. I will likely go this route. Out of curiosity, the guy who develops the skynet software for the Anet A8 seems to sell these same sensors but wired to connect directly to the z-stop connector (listing on ebay...). Any idea how he is able to achieve this? I realize the sensor is rated a 6-36V and the 5V is low, but I thought that it just brought down the range. However, sinby heatvent - General
OK, I read this thread and I am confused on the path to go. I recently purchased a LJC18A3-H-Z/BX NPN sensor. If I wire blue to ground, brown to 12v there is about 9V coming out of black when not triggered. When triggered it drops to 0V. I see a couple of posts with different wiring options: Option 1: Wire BLACK -> GROUND, and BROWN -> 12V, and BLUE -> SIGNAL on the Anet Z-Stop (seeby heatvent - General