I just use a switches wired right up to the ramps. No debouncing circuits. Seems to be working fine for 1.5 years now.by ejbantz - General
Can you post photos of the printer that shows locations of the motors and limit switches? I can help you get a configuration working.by ejbantz - Reprappers
Have you tried to "home" the x first? From the start, it will think it is at X0 location... so you should be able to move X+ but not X-. You might have a bad stepper driver board. Try swapping with a known working one. Installing a stepper driver backwards into the ramps board will damage the stepper driver. Hmm... what else.... are you using Marlin on the arduino? Maybe pull up/down seby ejbantz - Reprappers
Looks great! For printers I make with a home made hot end, using a block of aluminum, brass rod, and a brass nut cap, I can only run at like 15mm/sec. But with a premade jhead style hot end I can run at the default slic3r speeds.by ejbantz - Reprappers
Hi Papa, Pulleys could be loose, mark them to see if they are slipping. I've seen this happen and the result is similar to your prints... sort of random shifting usually in one direction. Looks like that is fishing line instead of a belt right, so the belts are probably not too tight. Otherwise, like others mentioned, stepper motors count need the current adjusted... either too much or too lby ejbantz - Reprappers
I use an XBox 360 power supply on mine. I never did get the auto power on/off to work on it though. The fan on it is very loud. I used it because I had one laying around and didn't want to spend money on a new one during all the other expenses with building a printer. I'd like to replace it with a more basic power supply like this one: But it does have some added risk in that the power coby ejbantz - Reprappers
There are two settings for layer height in slic3r. One for the first layer hight, and a second for all the rest. If you are getting no z movement after just the first layer, but are for the rest, maybe just the first layer height set very small. If you post the top of your gcode file here we can help troubleshoot it.by ejbantz - Reprappers
For the extruder... in pronterface, tell it to extrude 127mm of plastic. Then measure how much actually moved. Then adjust the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT setting in marlin, new value = old value * ( 127 / measured value) Here is a video to demonstrate.by ejbantz - General
you could take it all apart and then torch it to burn out the clog. do you happen to have a removable tip?by ejbantz - Mendel90
I've got experience building 20+ reprap printers... mostly Mendel90 style ones. I'd be happy to help get you started in one if you need parts... or more. I do group builds every few months. E. J. Bantz ejbantz@gmail.com --by ejbantz - SE Wisconsin - RepRap User Group
What part of the world are you in? E. J. --by ejbantz - Wanted
You can have this one if you want. It's not black, and is PLA, and has many changes to it. But maybe it will help you get up and running again.by ejbantz - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
For the motors, I don't think 47 vs 40 mm will matter. If you are buying wood, instead of a prefab base, then you can drill the holes where ever you want. The only variance for the motors will be the two z motors. The slots on the printed parts are pretty long and gives you lots of variance for motor height.by ejbantz - Mendel90