Quoteddutch i updated to the new marlin from github with the autobed leveling and changed it like the website said thats where i get the endstops inverting this is then config .hfile Ok, so when you were using your printer before you started doing anything with auto bed leveling, which configuration.h were you using? Were you using the one from the zip file you posted earlier with no changes mby brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
QuoteAbuMaia That's the firmware Colin offers for the MakerFarm i3v. I don't think he's used any of the updated Marlin code since he started making the i3 kits. Ok, well ddutch, you aren't going to be able to use auto bed leveling with that firmware.by brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
Quoteddutch here is the prusa i3v file from makerfarm Ok, again, where is this firmware coming from and is this what you are using? Because this firmware has no support for auto bed levelling.by brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
Ok, I'm a little confused. The two configuation.h files are very different, not just the auto bed level part. What marlin were you using before and where did you get the version you are trying to use now? Since the name is Marlin_RAMPS_EPCOS_i38v, that doesn't look like it came from the main Marlin git repository. The configuration.h does not even have any of the ABL stuff in it, so it looksby brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
Quoteddutch i did that it works fine but i entered all the stuff from videos and instructions then i verified it and i getthe error endstops inverted Can you the before and after copies of your Configuration.h so we can see the difference. Maybe we can pinpoint what the issue is. I think you may have just entered something wrong causing the compile error.by brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
Quoteddutch its in arduino i havent uploaded to the board yes ive printed without the autoleveling i just want to see if a good file goes thru arduino verification or if i get the same error Thanks Don If you downloaded a fresh copy of Marlin, can you verify that in the Aruduino program before you make any changes for auto bed leveling? Which version of Arduino do you have? You probably shoby brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
If you are using Marlin, then it's this line: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,796.26} // 660 was 760 * 1.1 calibrate extruder per slicer values are X, Y, Z, and E Bruceby brucehvn - Reprappers
Thanks for the info. I was seriously considering the EZ3D back in March when I was out to buy my first 3d printer. There were times I was just about to hit the "Buy" button, but in the end, the long lead time and the fact that there really was no info available, no forums, no support area on their website, and really not any info here, caused me to go elsewhere. I ended up buying an I3 Alpha kby brucehvn - General
QuoteSarge OK. I had a .4mm nozzle and it kept clogging so I went to the .8mm. I've been having a lot of problems with clogging no matter what filament I've been using. That's probably nothing to do with the size of the nozzle. Something else is going on to cause the constant clogs. What kind of hotend and extruder are you using? Has the bed levelling been calibrated? E-steps calibrated prby brucehvn - Printing
QuoteDraob I would like to see an "Probe bed level" menu item in the marlin menu which does G29. Also with the "clasic" endstop situation I had, choosing "Auto home" homed all my axis and put the nozzle in the home position. Because I have auto bed leveling now and safe z homing, it stays in the middle of the bed. I would like it to go to the home position with the auto home command in the menu.by brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
I used hairspray at first and actually liked it. But when I went to print my first sort of large item, I had an issue with warping. I did a combination of things to fix that including switching to the glue sticks. I can't say for sure that the hairspray was a problem, but haven't gone back to it. It's true the glue stick tends to be more uneven but I think it actually helps the first layer toby brucehvn - General
So, now that I realize I assembled my wheels incorrectly, what's the best way to get one of the bearings back out? They are stuffed pretty tight in there. There's a lip between them so I can't just push them out from one side.by brucehvn - Reprappers
I put another quick coat where the last print was stuck before printing the next thing. When it seems like it's built up too much, then I use a putty knife to scrape it mostly off the glass then start over. It washes off very easily too under water if you want to completely clean the plate. But I kind of like leaving a little bit of residue there after scraping before applying a new coat. I hby brucehvn - General
What are some of the ill effects of printing ABS at too low of a temperature? Could one thing be the printed piece will be weaker at the layer lines and more easily broken there? If the temperature is higher, does that form a better bond between the current layer and the previous layer?by brucehvn - Printing
Is your bed level also? The first pic looks like the infill is more normal on one side, but thicker on the other. Remember your first few layers will be a bit uneven due to the over extrusion on the first layer. Does it look the same after 10 layers as it did on the first couple? If you haven't checked your e-steps, then definitely do that as KingRahl pointed out.by brucehvn - Printing
Try printing something smaller and less time consuming first with your current settings and see if you can duplicate the problem. Maybe a 20mm calibration cube or something, then you can test a lot of different settings without waiting 5 hours every timeby brucehvn - Printing
I agree with KingRahl. I had an instance where I thought my print only finished about half and I was completely baffled looking at the gcode, etc. Then I firgured out that it actually had gone through the motions all the way to the end, just the filament stopped extruding due to a clog.by brucehvn - Reprappers
I've just started my 2nd roll of ABS filament. I wanted to once again try and do some calibration on it. I've found in the past, I've had a hard time figuring out what the lowest temperature I can print at should be. I've gone through Triffid Hunter's calibration guide. It says to print an object where you can clearly see the infill and start lowering the temperature during printing until youby brucehvn - Printing
It almost sounds like there's a z offset set in EEPROM, which is usually used for auto bed levelling. I take it these printers don't come with a z probe for ABL, right? Is auto bed levelling enabled in your Configuration.h? If not, then maybe try and reset the EEPROM to clear out any bad settings. Manually run an M502 command to restore to the settings in the Configuration.h. Then run M500 tby brucehvn - Printing
Sounds like you need to configure your e-steps. Triffid Hunter's calibration guide is a good place to start.by brucehvn - Reprappers
What software are you using (Repetier Host, Pronterface, etc.)? The software usually has printer settings where you configure the build area size. The slicer program might also have these params. I know Slic3r and Cura do.by brucehvn - General
QuoteTRoager My filament is 1.749 and i just raised the temperature to 265 and 270 an i finalt Got good layer Bonding. But it seems Strange. I use a 100k epcos with the e3d and using the first setting in marlin. (1) E3Dv5 is supposed to be number 5 thermistor in Marlin. At least that's what my instructions that came with it said and it made a big difference as I was running #1 also for awhile.by brucehvn - Printing
You may need to comment this line in Configuration.h to get the extruder stepper to run: #define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE Don't forget to uncomment it when you actually put your unit together. Bruceby brucehvn - General
Quotevegasloki The thing about Cura I don't like in particular is that the hot end heats prior to the bed. I haven't found a good way to change that except by editing the Gcode directly. If you put in your own commands for heating the bed and hotend in the start gcode setting in Cura, it will work like you want it to.by brucehvn - General
Look in the cooling settings in slic3r under filament. Enable auto cooling. Don't worry about the fan options, but you'll see some that say if a layer takes less than xx seconds, slow down the printing.by brucehvn - Reprappers
QuoteColdstone That code was written using Repetier Host and Skeinforge for the slicer, I have tried Slicer in Repetier but it errors out and is unusable. I'm not familiar with this type of slicing, before this I have only used Makerware for my other Flashforge Replicator Clone. Is there a Stand alone copy of Slicer that I can use to prep the model? One would think that this would be a commonby brucehvn - Printing
Yeah, I see no extrusion in your g-code. What slicer are you using?by brucehvn - Printing
Quotetobig11 How do you go about calibrating your e-steps, I,ve have never done that. And if the calibration has to be changed how do you do that? also when it goes over one layer to start anotherlayer it drags over that layer as if it's to low. Sounds like you are overextruding. Triffid Hunter's guide for calibration goes into e-step calibration and is a good guide to follow. Bruceby brucehvn - Printing
The speeds in the Configuration.h you posted don't look unreasonable. When you are testing printing, is the hotend heated up? The extruder won't turn unless you have reached a safe temperature. Of course that would mean you had it heated up for manual extrude and not heated for test printing, which I don't think is the case. But as you said, the motion is very slow as well. Have you adjustedby brucehvn - Printing
Quotenicholas.seward @brucehvn: I have hacked together a Marlin branch for my machine. I don't claim that it is a general solution but I would be glad to share it. I would spend more time on making the firmware handle generic transformations but ARM chips seem to be the future and Smootieware is good at that already. Thanks Nicholas. I'd like to take a look at your branch. So, are you usingby brucehvn - Developers