Certains stylos ont aussi des ressorts. J'en récupère souvent, il y en a de toutes les tailles.by Zavashier - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Une vraie vis trap, c'est pas non plus la ruine :by Zavashier - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
La résine épaissit aussi la pièce. Pour le PLA comme l'ABS et sans doute les autres plastiques durs, le mieux que j'ai trouvé de mon côté, c'est de passer la pièce au bol vibrant, puis d'appliquer un vernis. Il faut que je m'en fasse un à la maison d'ailleurs. Je vais peut-être essayer un baril, c'est plus simple mais il parait que ça bouffe un peu les angles.by Zavashier - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
I'm realy glad it works ! Have nice printsby Zavashier - Reprappers
True, but on larger print areas, for many reasons (described above) you can't stay as light as you wish. I asked for the rails size to have informations on its weight. The best technique is still to do calculations then select the best possible component in weight and function. But maybe it could make an useful for a X carriage in a CoreXY environment for example.by Zavashier - General
Hi. Thoughts galore, I whish this may help you. - Your Ramps quality is not good. Check any soldering problems on the underside. - Be sure the shield is properly connected to the arduino. - I can't see one of the negative 12v incoming power. Be sure the power comes at each terminal of the board with a multimeter. Once you have the multimeter in you hand, check the 5v and 12v everywhere on theby Zavashier - General
That Bosch/Rexroth linear rail system is a good component. It will be very useful for your build. Is it the 15 or 20mm rail size ? How many of them do you have ?by Zavashier - General
This is not usual. Do you have the specs of the motor ?by Zavashier - General
There's two rails on the ormerod, the funbot, the smartrap too, but on a single side. You maybe mean a bed within two rods ? If the buid is stiff enough, to have the two rods on a single side won't affect print quality. Obviously, you can drive the Z axis of any carthesian printer with a single motor on the Z axis. You just want to synchronize the two leadscrews with a belt and pulleys. Through,by Zavashier - Reprappers
The FolgerTech's support awnsered me 3 weeks after my messages, when I opened a dispute on paypal. Through, I asked for new Z rods to replace the bended ones, some broken parts of the frame, some bearings to replace the unusable ones, and they send it with a bonus LCD screen. The bearings was not better, the rods came bended too. Just the frame parts was useful. QuoteTheLostMake sure you hear fby Zavashier - Reprappers
To improve your hairspray efficiency, spray when the bed is cold, then allow it to dry, then you can heat it up. I don't have any bed adhesion or wrapping issue since I buit an enclosure. This can be realy basic one made out of styrofoam. That's what I did at the start, now I've built a cabinet for the printer and all the stuff needed around (filament stock, spray, tools...)by Zavashier - Reprappers
Le STL de toute manière c'est une modélisation par polygones. Donc c'est pas fait pour être manipulé ou alors par points de connexion, ce qui n'est pas envisageable dès qu'on sort des surfaces planes. Dans le paléolithique (d'où vient le STL !) on modélisait comme ça, face par face. Bonjour ! J'ai du mal à comprendre pourquoi les trancheurs n'acceptent que ce format qui pèse des tonnes, génère deby Zavashier - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Quotealan richard There have been similar posts about big printer builds before but most of the posters tend to disappear and never be heard from again after a short time. Yep; I also noticedby Zavashier - General
I own an acrylic frame. The frame bends like a piece of paper with the movement of the carriages. I could not print over 40mm without issues. I had to clamp reinforcement everywhere, and fix the whole frame to a heavy base. I will upgrade that frame as soon as possible ! Dibond is used on the new Ultimaker. It's ways better than acrylic indeed. IMHO, machine frames needs stiffness and mass at tby Zavashier - Prusa i3 and variants
Appreciate english is not my mother tongue. I appologize if what I wrote sounds harder to your ears than what I wanted to say. Please take what I wrote as some wise advices, even if it's not what you expected. Maybe this will help you to get me right. I note you have a long experience of prototyping. It's good obviously. The questions you asked let me know you still need to get some skills. That'by Zavashier - General
I desagree. You want a flat noze to squeeze the filament on the previous layer. I prefer the E3D style nozzle for the flat end, and also because the nut is larger, so you have more surface and more torque when you want to unmount it. The nut stays in better shape too.by Zavashier - Reprappers
Did you exchange your drivers from X to E ? Did it worked ? My MKSgen is not wired at this time, it's for my next printer. I tested it on my prusa i3 several weeks ago, when I recieved it and it worked fine. Here is the wiring scheme : Your problem can be a software issue, but we need to check up the hardware first.by Zavashier - Reprappers
Il faut que tu dégraisses bien ta plaque d'impression : nettoyage, puis acétone puis alcool. La colle ça marche peut-être avec le PLA, mais avec l'ABS ça n'a pas marché chez moi. J'imprime direct sur du verre avec de la laque Fructis Style Ultra Fort. C'est nickel, j'imprime 5 ou 6 plateaux entre chaque nettoyage sans problème. Je prépare à froid, je laisse sécher puis je met en chauffe, j'ai remby Zavashier - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Si tu n'es pas capable de garder la partie froide de ton extrudeur froide, de toute manière tu n'imprimes pas parce que ton filament fond avant l'heure. Mais il y a une grosse différence entre un petit flux d'air localisé sur le radiateur et un environnement général froid autour de la pièce. Je n'ai pas de compétences poussées en dynamique des fluides pour argumenter le bien fondé ou pas de cetteby Zavashier - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
The acrylic frame is cheap and easy to be cutted of. Otherhand, it don't weight a lot. So it has everything a company needs to save on building and shipping costs. It looks nice too, it's a good marketing point. Otherwise, it's maybe one of the worst material for any machine building. It's not stiff, it's fragile, it's not stable under heat... Some chinese kits propose 8mm acrylic frame. Which isby Zavashier - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotemabooH-belt printers are quite easy to be scaled up. Sorry maboo, it's just wrong. Even a horizontal belt transmission is not infinitely scalable. The stretch of the belt is a percentage of its own lenght. If not supported, the belt may bend under its own weight, even a GT2. And we're talking only about the belt itself, not about pulleys required precision and alignment. For any machine's cby Zavashier - General
Any SLA/DLP printer uses only one motor for the whole machineby Zavashier - Reprappers
Your picture does not looks like a Prusa i3, it's something else. Appreciate engineering is not scalable as wanted. If downscale makes no problem for well engineered machines, upscale is often a bad idea, except maybe if you stay around 5-10% of the original scale. The Prusa I3 Xcarriage flexes already a bit too much for a 200mm print bed with 8mm rods. You will need to overscale the rods anywayby Zavashier - General
I agree with AndrewBCN. Downscale is ok for any design. But upscale is generaly a bad idea. Physicaly, no design allow to upscale its bed size about 400% neither in the future. The prusa i3 is initialy designed for a 200x200mm bed. On the X and Y axis the 8mm rods are limit for that distance, because of their own weight. To me they flex already too much, especialy on Y. You can raise the Z withby Zavashier - General
Ok, We know the motor is OK. Now invert the drivers and give a try.by Zavashier - Reprappers
Si ! Ça c'est toujours, peu importe le plastique. Une buse il y a la partie hotend qui doit rester chaude, et la partie coldend qui doit rester froide. Donc il faut un système de refroidissement.by Zavashier - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
De rien, d'autres doivent aussi avoir des choses à dire sur la question, le dernier qui a parlé n'a pas forcément raison. Sinon tu devrais essayer avec des pièces plus modestes au départ, histoire de mieux maitriser le truc.by Zavashier - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Ben à la fois, on ne va pas te faire tes courses pour chaque article Il faut chercher un petit peu. Premier prix et très correct chez Aliexpress... Sinon, il y a les BOM de l'IRC avec des liens.by Zavashier - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Well, that's not as easy to know anything at a distance. Try to invert extruder's steppers and motors to a working axis, to check if something's wrong somewhere.by Zavashier - Reprappers
I would close both sides except the bottom, and install external fans to cool with fresh air. With your CoreXY design, it seems pretty easy to me : you can screw pannels with some hardware from your corner squares. Just use pannels that are tall enough to carry a lid a way above the bowden. You may externalize the LCD screen, make a hole for the Z motor and then a cover to enclose it.by Zavashier - Reprappers