QuoteMendingThings So I have been using my F/T 2020 i3 for quite some time now and I don't know why I didn't think of this question before but here it is anyway. Since our height limit is the carriage contacting the motors, which by the way, I have upgraded to the motor extensions, why do we have the hot end mounted so far low below the carriage? If we were to raise it up to just below the carriby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRichOaks Hi Dan, and everyone else, This is my first foray into 3d printing, and have done a small amount of arduino tinkering in the past. I just bought a Folgertech 2020 Prusa i3 (w/out LCD) and finished putting it together last night. I set all the stepper motor board potentiometers to the corresponding voltage in the build guide (side note, I was within .05 mv on some, and just couldntby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJmiceli11 Hello, I'm getting a lot oozing prior to a print. This is leading to strings and drags in the first few layers. Others have recommended entering a retraction code at the end of the print. How do I do this? I'm using Repetier-Host and slic3r. Do I just insert the G-code line: G1 E-1.2000 F1800 After the final G92 E0 line in the G-code?Thanks, John That should work but youby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDynamiteHack I need to replace the control boards that came with my printer. Looking at your website, I see you are sold out of the 2650's and Ramps packages. Is that because the MKS combo board is replacing them? I have your 2020 i3. Will this board work?? I'd like to get an order going as soon as I can so any guidance would be appreciated!! Thanks, 'hack Unfortunately, this board has beby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Since no one is awake or this forum is dead, I'll give an update. I gave up on the Folger Tech Marlin and went to RC8, which is now working perfectly using the BLTOUCH. I have to say I'm disappointed that no one, save O_lampe, had any suggestions. I KNOW I've read MANY comments on many different machines using many different ABL sensing devices about the nozzle printing in mid air yet no oneby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteo_lampe Did you check the functionality of the BLTouch? To me it looks like the trigger signal is not stable or got misread ( ground-issues, noise or insufficient voltage level) Sidenote: why do you have to ABL your FT5 every time? It's not a delta and looks rock solid Thanks for the reply! I just did an M48 V4 on my machine and the Sigma is 0.008084 mm for 10 samples so I'd say that's prby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Since I'm not getting any comments, I'm assuming that my explanation sucked. I'm running a Folger Tech FT-5 now for about 3 months with no problems. I'm running their version of 1.1.0 RC6. I've been using a BLTOUCH since day one on this machine and on my FT 2020 i3 (for 1 1/2 years). My start GCode script is M140 S70 M280 P0 S160 G4 P5000 : wait for alarm reset to clear M280 P0 S90 ;pin upby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a Folger Tech FT5 that's been running for about 4 months now. Running a BLTOUCH just like on my FT 2020 i3. I don't know whether to scream, cry, or beat the dog (oh wait, I don't have a dog). I'm running an order on the FT5 running the 'FT modified version of 1.1.0 RC6'. After 8 consecutive successful prints, the ninth one is giving me the fits. After G28 and G29, the nozzle does not dby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quotemfisch No, I didn't tin them. Tinning the wires is considered to be a bad idea. See . The best approach is to crimp a ferrule on to the end. I've never had any problems with this myself, though I was fortunate to catch a bad connection by noticing a smell from the insulation (which was starting to melt) and a very hot connector. That's why I asked, animoose.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemfisch I have been leery about those green connectors. The strip 1/8" of wire is bs, at least 1 wire falls out weekly with maybe 6 prints. 3/16 to 1/4" seems to be much better. Did you tin the wires before inserting them into the green connectors?by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
The Folger Tech FT5 is a great kit for the money. It's been working great for me. I've had their 2020 i3 for about a year and it's been very reliable. The FT5 is huge in comparison yet just as reliable. I'm not thrilled with the melamine parts but they do the job if you retighten from time to time. You also need to ensure everything is square and flat too.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose > BTW, this thread is dying. Dying after 174 pages doesn't seem so bad. This must be one of the longest threads on the forum, and it's been amazingly helpful and constructive throughout. I can't speak for anyone else, but for me the FT 2020 was a stepping stone. I learned a ton about building, using and modifying 3D printers from it, and then eventually moved on to a new one (Eby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteianmcmill This has been fixed but maybe others come here and have the same problem. 1.) Check that the thermistor is not cooled be any fan. 2.) Check that the thermistor is not damaged. 3.) Check in the firmware the timers for thermal runaway. Like tjnamtiw said: up the time. Default is 20sec. 30-40 sec is also fine. In configuration.h, 'Residence time' is the time that the hot end has asby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecrumb4life Quotemfisch The mega would show under Devices and printers in control panel for windows.Since your manual control was via the computer, it is seeing the mega.Maybe your comm settings are off and you are dropping characters or commands. It seems like mine is dropping characters or commands. I will have to try using the sd card.The Pi came in so I have been trying to get that setupby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
With Octopi, you WILL see a command prompt on the Pi. You then go to your PC and call up the command for your router > 192.168.1.??? (depends on router. Usually .1 or .254). Look down the list of devices for Octopi and see what its address is. That's what you type in the address bar to start Octoprint. As for using a PC hooked to the FT5, it might have something to do with the drivers forby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemfisch You said it works manually - was that using the LCD controller or Repetier/Pronterface? Does your computer show the MEGA as a device? It works the machine manually using Pronterface or Repetier. Everything works until you go to run a .gco. I don't know about the MEGA. Where would you be looking for that. Under 'devices'? The three marlins I ran all had different 'motherboards'by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemfisch I had lots of the line number errors along with unknown command errors.I was printing a filament holder side/end. Sl3cr was looking ok but I think the filament bound up ad caused missed steps shifting layers bay about .25". Cura didn't even put holes in the print. Don't want to deal with it during the weekl, I only ge 5.5 hrs sleep as it is. Mine never even starts. The bed heats upby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw Is anyone else having problems getting the latest version of Repetier to work with the FT-5? Manually, it all works but when I slice and try to print, the bed heats up SLOWLY OF COURSE, and then alarms out. On the advice of a friend, I'm going to try Pronterface and Cura. I might also try an older version of Repetier. I've used Cura, Repetier, Slc3r, and Pronterface as slicers anby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Is anyone else having problems getting the latest version of Repetier to work with the FT-5? Manually, it all works but when I slice and try to print, the bed heats up SLOWLY OF COURSE, and then alarms out. On the advice of a friend, I'm going to try Pronterface and Cura. I might also try an older version of Repetier.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
In your firmware, there's a place where you can put in a delay before it checks to see if the temperature moved enough in that length of time. Up that time and you won't have problems anymore. I'm not where I can tell you the actual spot but you should be able to find it. Essentially you are giving it more time to be sure the temp is changing.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecrumb4life QuoteMach Make sure your X axis endstop is plugged in one spot over from the right on your ramps board. Manually press the X axis endstop, and type m119 into the gcode bar under manual controls. What does to command log say when you do this? Can you copy and paste your config.h file in pastbin and give a link to it. Also, can you take a screen snippet of you printer shape settingby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts Sounds like fun. . Got a link to the Facebook group?by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Why all the crickets? Were did everyone go? Over to FaceBook. 1500 people registered but it's getting as convoluted as this string! AND it has its favorites, its experts, and its trolls.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesethmo I am trying to setup BLTouch with Marlin 1.1.0 RC7 and am having some issues. My setup has the X endstop on the right side. The issue is when I do a G28, it moves the Z-axis up 10mm then homes X and Y, then moves X & Y to the safe home position(No issues so far). When it starts to home the Z axis it is moving up away from the bed. If I invert the Z axis, it homes down, but iby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Pottery glazes FYI get fired to over 2000 F so that's out. Don't forget a mild bath in Clorox will sterilize. I'm a potter and make beer.by tjnamtiw - General
Well then you don't have auto bed leveling and I'm wondering why you are using Z offset. That's NOT how you set your first layer Z height.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you talking a microswitch mounted on the print head or the microswitch mounted on the vertical rod?by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejabu32 Quotetjnamtiw Quotejabu32 Yeah still stock. I do have an all metal one I bought. Is there any cautions running the all-metal head? Just replace the two parts I mentioned. If you change heads then you'll never know what caused your problem. I meant all metal heat break. Can't help you with that!by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejabu32 Yeah still stock. I do have an all metal one I bought. Is there any cautions running the all-metal head? Just replace the two parts I mentioned. If you change heads then you'll never know what caused your problem.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
What auto bed leveling system do you have?by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants