Show all posts by user
Quotedougal1957
That's because your not connected to the printer try changing the Baud rate (Near the Top centre) from 115200 to 250000 I bet they have left the FW at the default of 250000.
If you look at his config he posted its set the same as the firmware.
Just hit the connect button and from there you should be able to home and move the axis.
by
Floyd
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Reprappers
Try using Pronterface to interface with your printer.
by
Floyd
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Reprappers
Thats a TON of warp. Make sure you have no fans on in the room anywhere near the printer.
I print on glass with purple glue stick and rarely have a print pop off unless it has a small contour. And if it does I change from skirt to brim ~3-4mm off the part
by
Floyd
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Printing
How tall was the print though.
I find anything above 2" on my open i3 warps and cracks. Im hoping to switch to a coreXY setup that is enclosed to print ABS better.
by
Floyd
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Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist
"$40 per month"
"We have 290 members"
$11,600 a month in dues is not bad at all.
Wish there was a makerspace near me.
by
Floyd
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CoreXY Machines
I tried to download the new RC and just using the stock version from the github page I cannot verify it out of the gate.
It gives me this message:
Arduino: 1.6.13 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"
Exception 0xc0000090 0x0 0x0 0x10282a
PC=0x10282a
syscall.Syscall12(0x7770e320, 0xa, 0x12e3fef0, 0x12e5aa00, 0x0, 0x0, 0x1, 0x400, 0x12fec000, 0x0, ...)
by
Floyd
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteDennis Mc
I wish. Cannot get metric all thread locally & individual hardware pieces are at least twice the cost. D.
Where are you shopping?!
Anywho yes there is a SAE version thats been posted already. Its going to be a little harder getting support for anything on it because everyone runs metric hardware.
by
Floyd
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Reprappers
Why not just use metric? Its just as easy to get and its about the same price.
by
Floyd
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Reprappers
Mine does the same. I have to add material after a retract otherwise it runs about 20mm before it starts extruding after a retract. Its a setting in most slicers
by
Floyd
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Printing
Most people have it hooked to constant 12v.
by
Floyd
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Printing
I run ONLY ABS and I run most of mine around 240c FYI...
by
Floyd
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General
Try slowing down to 40mm/sec also.
I print .2mm layers with my .4mm tip.
by
Floyd
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Printing
Agreed. I tried to use the dev_UBL and found it to be too cumbersome so I gave it up.
I just use G29 leveling and it works good enough and its simple with one command.
by
Floyd
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General
Little issues like this are what keep me on Cura and away from Slic3r
by
Floyd
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Slic3r
I just keep custom gcode on the SD card and run from there.
by
Floyd
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Firmware - Marlin
Ive had the same issue on my printer before and it was retraction not working right because it was set too high and the motor was skipping.
by
Floyd
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Printing
I also have a Uprint SE plus at work and ive had the whole thing tore down to replace a bad Z motor and there were no filters.
I print in just ABS at home and have never smelled it. Its in my home office, if my wife can sit in the same room and not complain then its not bad at all! haha.
by
Floyd
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Reprappers
Oh yea and I have a phone mount on my motorcycle that I made and it looks and works great still after a few months.
by
Floyd
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General
Have you done any calibration to the extruder yet?
Thats STEP ONE!
by
Floyd
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Printing
Ive had ABS shift bushings that I made on my car be in under hood temps in FL for the better part of 3 years before failing.
by
Floyd
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General
Quotedc42
so your issue is likely to be that the Y pulley has a different number of teeth from the X pulley.
That would really only matter to the motion. If he has it set as 80 steps in the firmware then the display shouldnt be rounding like it is.
by
Floyd
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General
Did you configure the firmware. I hope you didnt just download it and try to run it stock.
Sounds like the Z axis is trying to move too fast.
by
Floyd
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General
Thingiverse for me also if im looking for something to play with.
I normally design a bunch of things that I never upload though.
by
Floyd
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General
Personally id grab a fresh copy of the firmware and start from there.
Marlin RC7 is what ive been using without issues.
by
Floyd
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General
Homing feedrate in your firmware is too high by the sounds of it.
by
Floyd
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General
Most of the time its not actually 200x200.
Zero the axis and then manually jog till you reach the end. I bet you hit something under 200 before you reach the end.
Do this for the X, Y and Z axis.
Yes finding out how tall the Z axis "actually" is takes time because its the slowest but once you have the actual height you wont ever have to do it again.
by
Floyd
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General
Doesnt look too bad for ABS honestly.
Try printing two at once and I bet it will improve the top.
How fast are you printing? in mm/sec. I normally go from 40-60 mm/sec for most of my ABS
by
Floyd
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Printing
Might be a setting for how many steps per turn of the encoder
by
Floyd
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General
Start a print with no filament in the extruder?
by
Floyd
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General