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Hey Blue, yes the new parts are working fine, although not without a quick fix for an unforeseen extruder holder issue.
The new mount I used was the Buderschnozzle version of the Gregs Wade reworked version here.
The one I got a friend to print out is the one shown in the last image, in black ABS this time. Unfortunately it's not quite Budaschnozzle compatible without a 9mm spacer between the mo
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mr.sneezy
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Prusa i3 and variants
Update on my Prusa i3.
The printed parts on my machine are made of PLA. Yesterday the shed where it's used was 40C ambient in a bit of Aussie hot weather. You'd think that would make for nice printing as the print would not cool so much between layers.
Well about 15 minutes into the print the Wade extruder assembly softened up and drooped by about 10mm, ruined the print of course, and the Wade
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mr.sneezy
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Prusa i3 and variants
I put the Y motor on the back to keep the wiring tidier and shorter, that's all. Yes the software doesn't care either way.
During my build I was not happy with the slop in the X carriage printed ends, when assembled the normal way I could see and feel the two X rods move in the ends. I tried thin brass shims under the rods, then when that was not good enough I carefully glued the rods in permane
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mr.sneezy
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Prusa i3 and variants
Mine was a collection of Prusa i3 parts from all over including Ebay. Used a Melzi 2.0 controller from Dealextreme, and a Budaschnozzle hot end bought locally (and converted to 1.75mm fillament).
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mr.sneezy
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Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for that reply.
You are right. I updated to the current development version 1.0.2 and the endless OK's are no more.
Thanks again, I spent a lot of time searching the WWW and forums and never found that info anywhere else.
Regards,
Martin
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mr.sneezy
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Printrun/Pronterface
This is one of the questions I've asked myself too.
I started with four corner springs, using a 6mm acrylic Y carriage, and had 5mm depron under the hot plate ( I fitted a sheet of 5mm depron under the heat bed to decrease heat loss and isolate the Y carriage from the heat above it, depron can take 125C).
The bed would sag as the bed heated up and I concluded that the acrylic Y carriage was warp
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mr.sneezy
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General Mendel Topics
If anybody can tell me where the magic tick box is to stop the Pronterface console pane from filling with OK's by the thousands, please let me know.
A screen capture is attached.
These happen by the bucket load after every code I send or the GUI sends to the Melzi 2.0 running Marlin.
It works fine, just is making it hard to find the real responses of interest....
Thanks,
Martin
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mr.sneezy
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Printrun/Pronterface
Do you mean the standard Prusa i3 Y carriage plate ?
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mr.sneezy
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Reprappers
Interesting thoughts. I have been looking at how to run an LCD (preferably a 128x64) with the Melzi 2.0. Info is a bit thin or a bit incomplete on how to do this with readily available display/controllers.
In the meantime I'm looking for the best functioning PC software solution...
So when you did have a LCD/SD/encoder setup working, what did you slice with that you were happiest with ?
Martin
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mr.sneezy
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Reprappers
Question to the giys who have tried the various host softwares and have a favourite. What would you recommend I try out on a DIY Prusa i3 with Marlin next ?
I used Pronterface and it works fairly well with Marlin and the Melzi 2.0 board on the i3, but print quality (using Slic3r) is only fair (not great). Feedback during printing is a bit hit or miss (temps etc).
I used Repetier and found it pri
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mr.sneezy
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Reprappers
I also recommend you repost to the right forum and I could help solve this. I have the same system more or less. Melzi 2.0 and Prusa i3.
Martin
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mr.sneezy
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Dutch User Group - Archive
Thanks, that's a useful description.
I guess if the G-code is being spooled from an SD card on the controler then the GUI like Pronterface or Repetier has no further input until the job is complete ?
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mr.sneezy
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
I see (I think).
I seem to have misinterpreted this Wiki info here that I thought pointed to Gen7.
It said it had some differences to the Sanguinololu.
I have been using Gen7 board setting in the Arduino IDE not Sanguinololu.
Thanks for the calculator link. I'm set to a resonator not crystal. Brownout is sort of set to a useless level too.
I'll change the fuses, thanks.
Martin
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mr.sneezy
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Sanguino(lolu)
Found and turned on Pronterface's G-code debug. Looks like Pronterface asks for info at connection, but my board can't interpret it.
Connecting...
SENT: M105
RECV: okokokokokokokokokokecho:Unknown command: ""
Printer is now online.
RECV: ok
I tried sending M105 manually and got...
>>>M105
SENT: M105
RECV: okokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokokoko
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mr.sneezy
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
I'm finding I get the report info fairly randomly on all firmware builds at connection, so I think it's Pronterface not requesting the report M codes for settings or asking too soon after connection.
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mr.sneezy
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
I found a bit of a clue here
Suggests that the firmware has final control of the feed and accel limits (not sure about Pronterface and slic3r).
If anyone has more info I'd like to know.
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mr.sneezy
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thanks for the ideas.
Following that I looked at Pronterface and Marlin settings for feed rate. One was in mm/sec and the other in mm/min. Pronterface was effectively set to a slower value than the firmware, hence it didn't jump on manual moves.
What helped a lot was finding this thread below
The info in it was useful to test the Z feed at increasing rates, until it un-synced, which was at 280
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mr.sneezy
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Printing
I nearly blew up my Melzi 2.0 board accidentally the other day while probing around with my multimeter investigating a problem when I mistakenly thought it was powered down. It wasn't, and I didn't realize that fact until I caused an MCU reset and the fan twitched a few times.
That got me wondering what the Status LED does on boards running Marlin, as I have not noticed it doing anything yet on
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mr.sneezy
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
A fundamental question I have not found an easy answer for. As a newbie in 3D Reprap I assumed that the firmware settings were absolute in the limiting of maximum motor speed and acceleration, but now I'm not sure that was a good assumption.
Can anybody tell me (without guessing like I did). What is the hierarchy of motion control in a Reprap 3D printer in relation to movement limits like motor
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mr.sneezy
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
The Melzi 2.0 I have has three solder pad links marked MS1, MS2 & MS3 from each stepper driver.
To get a my printer running do I need to do anything with these or just leave them as is (all open) ?
Thanks,
Martin
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mr.sneezy
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Sanguino(lolu)
Hmm, my fuses are set to Low: D6, High: DA and E fuse to FD. A bit different to what you suggest it should be.
I have changed the bootloader, it seemed logical to me to put a known bootloader on the board, as I have no idea what it came with. It came I suspect with a Repetier FW on it as well.
Martin
PS. Thanks I'll stick with the main Marlin branch then.
Edit: Actually you headed off another
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mr.sneezy
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Sanguino(lolu)
I have a show stopper problem on the Z axis of a Prusa i3 with NEMA-17 motors (wired in series, not parallel).
I can run the Z axis up and down all day manually through Pronterface and never loose sync between the two Z axis motors. However about 3 seconds into a test printing run (after the bed and extruder reaches working temp), the Z axis rises slightly from the home position, shakes rapidly m
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mr.sneezy
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Printing
Hi all,
I'm trying out Marlin on a Melzi V2.0 board. I've tried a few brews of Marlin that have been allegedly tweaked for Melzi boards. Still trying to find the best, but that's another story...
In trying a few Marlin firmwares and configs (editing therm to suit my Prusa i3) I noted that when connecting on Pronterface that some firmwares send back a nice list of statuses and settings, and othe
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mr.sneezy
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
This is the Melzi 2.0 I have, seems to be a Heacent version (if that matters here).
I have read conflicting info about fuses settings for this style board regarding if it has a 16Mhz resonator or a 16Mhz crystal.
I think it's a crystal on mine as the part is a miniature (0805 size perhaps) SMD metal can with what looks like about six pads.
A couple of questions.
Is anyone here using this board
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mr.sneezy
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Sanguino(lolu)
I found a method that I could reheat the nuts and get them straighter, by heating the end of spare 5mm threaded rod first, then screw it in and wait till the heat transferred into the nut. It took a couple of goes to work out how much to heat the threaded rod to make the nut loosen slightly.
My control card arrived today
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mr.sneezy
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Reprappers
I did tighten the X-axis lead screw nuts too, but did it by 'heat setting' them in with a heat gun (while on a 5mm thread off-cut). In fact I had to heat the nuts to fit them at all anyway, that part was too tight to press fit !
I used regular 30 minute epoxy in the X rod guides, it sets very well. 5 minute would not give me enough time to check alignments.
I think I'll have the control board
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mr.sneezy
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Reprappers
I've completed the epoxy addition to the rod tubes in the X-ends. I did it over two nights so I could check alignment one side at the time, with the X carriage set close to the end being glued to set the rod spacing perfectly as possible. I'd only recommend doing the epoxy addition if you can be sure about getting the rods and ends in good alignment while the epoxy goes hard (parallel and with no
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mr.sneezy
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Reprappers
The printed plastic parts for my Pursa i3 Einstein variant came from a local guy (Morellitech) and are printed in PLA not ABS. ABS printed parts were not on offer in Oz when I wanted to buy the set, at least not anywhere I looked.
I didn't buy a complete kit, I bought bits from all over to keep cost low as practical. Complete kits seem to cost about $100-150 more than what can be done with caref
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mr.sneezy
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Reprappers
Hi all, I'm new here.
I'm building a Prusa i3, I've just completed the mechanical build and about ready to start wiring. Before I do that though I'm not sure about the amount of play in the X axis smooth rods and axis ends that I have, and I'd like some advice.
The 8mm smooth rods were a sloppy fit in the two holes in both X axis ends from the start, so I put thin brass shims under the rods ins
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mr.sneezy
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Reprappers
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