Quoteanvoice Your extruder looks like it would put a fair amount of torque on the rods at the center point. Perhaps one with the motor's mass over the rods rather than to the side torquing them would prove better. Sounds good, but all designs i see on thingiverse and myminifactory hang like this...plus have more to them like fan shrouds and larger gears and ect...more weight. Except Bowden desiby Badkitty - Reprappers
I'm beginning to see that is the problem. Remove the extruder and the problem disappears....so does my extruder lol. Any other advise? Better design? Something I can print to change the way it hangs or something?by Badkitty - Reprappers
I tried searching for this, but i'm not finding this exact problem. I have the folger tech prusa i3 (bought dec 2014 ) still runs great except this issue now So i started printing again. I had to re-level my printbed as my cats like to walk across it. I have an aluminum bed w\aluminum bearing brackets, rubber hose spacers between bed and Anodized Aluminum Heated Bed Build Plate. I leveled allby Badkitty - Reprappers
I had this once...is that motor hard\feel stuff to turn by hand when off? My belt drive gear was to close to motor housing and grinding and not moving freely. Loosened the screw...backed the gear away from housing a tiny bit and tightened. Idk how, but eventually it creeped towards the motor and started rubbing. Now the screw is super tight and doesn't move. Just thought i'd offer my solutioby Badkitty - Reprappers
Quoteslanwar Where you got the aluminum plates? They look way better than the acrylic.by Badkitty - Reprappers
thanks tadawson......that bearing is TOASTED !! wiggled like it wasn't even attached. Now i need to replace stepper on extruder. After only a minute of printing it's hotter than hell. Finger on it 2 seconds it way too long. I still want to upgrade to wade or bowden.by Badkitty - Reprappers
Iam wanting to upgrade to a wade as well...as mine is starting to skip on every print I try after 4 months of solid printing ..can u post which one u used? I also am still using stock folgertech as well. There are just soo many versions of it...not sure which to use. Would rather use what someone has already says works. Thanksby Badkitty - Reprappers
is the printer enclosed? or at least shielded by breezes? You may think ambient temp is nothing, but it's all relative. If it's 80f in your room....and the bed is 80c (200F)....if you walk by and create a slight breeze...you're moving air more than half it's temp across it. Cooling it a lot. Even just a quick breath over it u can see a temp drop. My bed was taking too long to heat to 80c....by Badkitty - Reprappers
Ok so i've been printing (mostly) great off my Foglertech I3 since february. Ocassional hicups here and there. Haven't done any real upgrades to printer, except aluminum Y carriage and print bed. Which made it WAY more rigid and accurate. Now i want to upgrade my extruder type to a bowden. I've seen many pictures of many different setups for many OTHER printers. Many different customized andby Badkitty - Reprappers
Torsional is not my concern.. its vertical movement (flex) . The two bearing side seems very rigid..I can push down on the corners and its still level. But the single being side doesnt always come back level. And it's easier to move up and down...since there is only one bearing (center pivot) as opposed to two bearing where there is no pivot. The point about the y end stop being in the way dby Badkitty - Reprappers
So my stupid curious cats got on my desk....and knocked my brand new filament spool off it's guide and smashed my build plate. I have an aluminum plate on my heated bed plus glass, but it snapped two corners off my plastic carriage mount. I'm on ebay and see some nice looking aluminum replacments My question is this... when i got my printer back in feb...i remember thinking i was missing aby Badkitty - Reprappers
Best thing to do get this and play with your settings for each print. You scale it down so print time is faster. I printed maybe 30 of these until i found the settings that worked for my printer. As floyd said, even just using SOME of someone else's settings may not work for your setup. Here are my main settings for .2mm layer height. Don't pay attention to first layer height, those are specby Badkitty - Printing
I use cura after slicer started taking 3x as long...even after defaulting all settings.by Badkitty - Reprappers
I posted in reprappers, as i've never reallly gone to any of these other sections, so i'll post it here. So i'm printing out a rotating V12 engine for fun. Now that i need more accurate parts i now need to actually figure out how to make the first layers the same width as the rest. What i mean is , i print a 10mm long 3mm wide conencting rod for the piston. The first approx 5 layers of the bottby Badkitty - Printing
i was using Slic3r when i first started printing, then one day it slowed down considerably. I deleted the settings and reset them to default and it was still super slow. So i tried out Cura and after several prints got it workin great , WITH THE SAME SPEED SETTINGS as slicer. I never went back to slicer,by Badkitty - Printing
So i'm printing out a rotating V12 engine for fun. Now that i need more accurate parts i now need to actually figure out how to make the first layers the same width as the rest. What i mean is , i print a 10mm long 3mm wide conencting rod for the piston. The bottom of this rod is .3mm larger in diameter than the rest of the rod. What do i need to do to fix this? All searches i do keep cby Badkitty - Reprappers
ok updated with original post contents.by Badkitty - Reprappers
Problem...not solved, but side-stepped kind of. I was having a problem with repetier. I have 2 profiles, one with tape on bed non-heated and one without tape and heated bed. Quality settings in each profile ie; .2mm , .15mm , .1mm , all had corresponding first layer heights that worked great. Especially with tape adding .15mm to first layer height on each quality settings. So all these settingsby Badkitty - Reprappers
I finally got around to testing every method for pla on my heated bed. Got tired of peeling blue tape off everything. I clean my glass with pain water and paper towel. I set temp to 70c and have not had any problems ever. Even on tall prints @12hr print time.by Badkitty - Reprappers
My acrylic frame is just fine. I mounted to a piece of particle board, with zip ties holding down the frame to the board and zip ties holding the threaded rods of the build plate frame. I've had NO problems. My longest print is 13hours and no skips, misaligned layers or artifacts.by Badkitty - Prusa i3 and variants
i use NetFabb basic to split objects. Much faster and easier.by Badkitty - 3D Design tools
Then right click on objects to export to stl.... took awhile I to find a program to do that easily and was freeby Badkitty - Reprappers
So, i see a setting in Sli3er ONLY, "Complete Individual Objects", yet it never works. Is there any way to do this in any other slicer program? I mostly use Cura 15 now, but it doesn't have that function. I want to print many objects in ABS, but the first layer keeps picking up no matter what temp i use on the bed, glue stick or even blue painters tape. If i print one single item it works justby Badkitty - Reprappers
i was having the same issue. You may think the bed is completely flat and level with smaller prints, but i recently started doing large prints, max length, but narrow, and i was getting pissed that i would come back after 2hrs and it only printed the first layer, yet it finished and sat at park position. Small prints worked fine, but larger were failing. I realized it was my bed. Because in someby Badkitty - Reprappers
Never heard of them, but when I go to website..it's only showing 1kg for $19.99 = 2.2lb. If that's what you're talking about. I'd still rather pay the extra $4 and buy mine at frys. I have no problem with thier PLA . others may disagree. I have 5 spools..And no problemsby Badkitty - Reprappers
QuoteBadkitty i printed a 20mm calibration cube on mine today. All sides came in at 19.96 - 20.05 mm. my Hot end is loose and spins/wiggles a little when i touch it. Last night i took it apart to get my filament out (change color and it wouldn't feed) i tried to tighten the hot end, but it just kept spinning, so i left it. As i watch it print i don't see it wiggle at all, even when at max axis aby Badkitty - Prusa i3 and variants
im watching another print..my very first object i printed sucessfully which was fast. It's now just as slow on permeter and infill, yet when it hit layer 10,45, 51 of 60..., it went normal\fast speed on perimeter and infill, but next layer it went slow???? The object is just a round shape through those layers. nothing in the shape, density or infill changed I just sliced same object with curaby Badkitty - Reprappers
After all my initial problems settings up my printer, it's been running fine for the last week or so. I've gotten up to 4hour prints with no problems, no jams, no skips. I've gotten good results at .1mm layer as well. My problem now is this, i saw it do this once and i stopped it, unplugged and reconnected to computer and restarted print and it printed like normal. Now, on smallish objects andby Badkitty - Reprappers
actually after i had done that..i had no other problems related to this. I'm up to 3hr prints with no problems.by Badkitty - Reprappers
Want to update with new info...for those searching threads on solutions to problems. I tried another 2hr print today and halfway through, the X axis stopped moving AGAIN. I checked the plastic pulley and it moved freely. The stepper motor was really stuff. I decided to pull it apart and check the windings. When i removed the aluminum pulley from the motor, i noticed the shaft turns freely againby Badkitty - Reprappers