QuoteBert3D Speaking in general, and not specifically about proximity sensors, the reason some kinds of sensors don't absolutely require the drop down, is that they use a "pull down" approach to the output. They allow the pull-up resistors on the Arduino (or whatever else they are plugged into) to provide the voltage to bring the input to a "1" or "on" status, with the output from the sensor "flby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
This one of threads I was going byby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you have a link to the sensor you bought? LJ18A3-8-Z/BY is blue and is a pnp sensor that would need a voltage divider, the BX version is orange and is NPN which does not need a voltage divider. EDIT: Actually i see a blue version of the BX too. lol i dont know anymoreby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejhitesma Quotethebabymaker I use this same sensor (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX DC 6-36V NPN 3-wire 8mm Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch Detector) and did not need to use a voltage divider. I have it plugged into my 12V power supply with my extruder fan and LEDs (as you have done), signal and ground into Z-stop input. From what I have been told, NPN sensors do not need a voltage divider - and it works aby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
I use this same sensor (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX DC 6-36V NPN 3-wire 8mm Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch Detector) and did not need to use a voltage divider. I have it plugged into my 12V power supply with my extruder fan and LEDs (as you have done), signal and ground into Z-stop input. From what I have been told, NPN sensors do not need a voltage divider - and it works as intended for me with this setuby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
I had something like this happen that i fixed by disabling the wipe nozzle feature that i had checked off in S3D.. this was on thin walls and small details so it may not be your issue, worth a shot i guess. Also, check your retraction settings, when i had those set too high i was getting breaks in the extrusion.by thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes, 255by thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach Quotethebabymaker Quotebmays Quotethebabymaker So I replaced my pcb bed with a new one because it was very slow heating up. But the new bed is just the same. Resistance measured 1.6 on his new board and 1.8 on the old one. Could voltage be the issue? I'm seeing 11.25v when I measure the bed, shouldn't it be 12? 11.25v under load? I.e. when bed is heating? If so, thats fine. Are yoby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebmays Quotethebabymaker So I replaced my pcb bed with a new one because it was very slow heating up. But the new bed is just the same. Resistance measured 1.6 on his new board and 1.8 on the old one. Could voltage be the issue? I'm seeing 11.25v when I measure the bed, shouldn't it be 12? 11.25v under load? I.e. when bed is heating? If so, thats fine. Are you placing the "lines" (coppeby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
So I replaced my pcb bed with a new one because it was very slow heating up. But the new bed is just the same. Resistance measured 1.6 on his new board and 1.8 on the old one. Could voltage be the issue? I'm seeing 11.25v when I measure the bed, shouldn't it be 12?by thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
So this is a bit of a silly question - my ramps board does not have any pins on the 12v aux. How do i connect to these pins? Do i need to solder in some pins or should I just solder the wire to the pad? Reason I am asking is because I am current using the D9 +12v to power my induction sensor, but I want to install a cooling fan to D9 for PLA so I need to move it. Would I fry my board if I coby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteiamquestar QuoteUltiFix Printing from sd card is fantastic! I agree! It's great not to worry about messing up a print when using your computer. I do miss the feed back seen in Repitier, but I think the trade-off is worth it. Have you looked into octoprint? It essentially makes the printer wireless. I have a raspberry pi set up with octoprint with the camera module. There is a web interby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Quotethebabymaker Silicone Heating pads - does anyone use one for their folgertech 2020 and do you have any recommendations/links for the pad that you are using? I've been reading up a lot on these, and most are recommending an external solid state relay. I found one from 3D LEAP on ebay that is rated at ~17amps - i feel like this would melt my board. I've also see some rated at 1by thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
Silicone Heating pads - does anyone use one for their folgertech 2020 and do you have any recommendations/links for the pad that you are using? I've been reading up a lot on these, and most are recommending an external solid state relay. I found one from 3D LEAP on ebay that is rated at ~17amps - i feel like this would melt my board. I've also see some rated at 11.5a. I'm trying to find someby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetnm Quotethebabymaker Quotetnm Just for an update, it's been a couple of weeks since I last posted. I've gotten my printer built, programmed and printing I want to say thanks to you all for posting your tricks and tips on this thread, and for therippa's firmware update. Surprisingly, my first print came out as an identifiable ultimaker robot. No complaints yet, except for the printed pby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetnm Just for an update, it's been a couple of weeks since I last posted. I've gotten my printer built, programmed and printing I want to say thanks to you all for posting your tricks and tips on this thread, and for therippa's firmware update. Surprisingly, my first print came out as an identifiable ultimaker robot. No complaints yet, except for the printed parts that came in the kitby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
I've had a lot of clogs lately - mostly because the nozzle has been scraping on my aluminum bed and clogging it up with aluminum shavings! I have been using a steel acoustic guitar E string to clear it.. i just stick it on, floss it a little then press down the level on the extruder and push the filament through. It's actually been working extremely well. As for the scraping, for some reason mby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry, reviving this! I have an NPN sensor. LJ18A3-8-Z/BX. Do I not need to wire a voltage divider?by thebabymaker - RAMPS Electronics
Lookong for any recommendations on hardware (screws, bolts,etc) kits that I can buy to have a good stock of hardware for upgrades. Or, which sizes should I get to cover 90% of my needs? Nothing worse than realizing you are missing something in the middle of a project!by thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you all use octoprint for this printer? I plugged in my printer to my raspberry pi and the LCD on the printer went white, then smoke started coming out of the MEGA and now its dead. I took the mega off and noticed a bent pin on the board, do you think thats what caused the short? Thanks everyone for all the help BTW - this forum has been so helpful in setting up my printer. Another questby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
So, the nut that goes on the threaded rod keeps falling out of one the 3d printed pieces on the x carriage when z is homing.. anyone else have this issue before? If so, what did you find was the best solution? thinking about gluing it at this point.. or maybe a get slightly larger nut?by thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants
I searched around a bit, and saw some (couldn't find many posts) also had some questions with the y carriage assembly. I guess my question is pretty simple, is the bed supposed to glide smoothly without resistance along the rails or should there be a little bit of friction? i just finished putting the frame and bed on, but there is some resistance when sliding the bed back and fourth - its sounby thebabymaker - Prusa i3 and variants