Mine is bang bang glass with PETG.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Wow that reflective optical end stop seems perfect for glass beds. If I ever need to level my bed again (it seems to stay in place for weeks) I'll look into it.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't see any problem (shifting) in that picture.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
When infill gets near a corner, it starts bouncing back and forth because the perimeters get closer and closer. As it gets to the tip of the corner, it's really rattling. Does the Vibration Limit fix this? I've tried it in the past, and I think it works by inserting a pause after each print segment; this was strange because the nozzle would melt there for a bit. However the way I would think itby RRuser - Slic3r
Your X end stop triggered at the wrong point. Might be a failing switch, or electrical noise in the endstop wiring.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
For good PETG sticking, I do 110by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
This corresponds to Createc's video for the Z axis: Remember you are using the black steel X pieces; not the blue plastic ones in the video. Other than that, the main thing I can stress is to be prepared to spend some time positioning the X carriage onto the X smooth rods, and the brass nut in the X carriage, so that there is absolutely no binding of the threaded rods as the Z moves up and dowby RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
It has something to do with only being able to move the first "main" part, at least when making copies. So you have to position first, then copy. Also, select using the list on the right.by RRuser - Slic3r
Print a cube.by RRuser - Slic3r
Also un-check Detect Thin Walls. Doing this allows me to sometimes get an additional extrusion into a tight space.by RRuser - Slic3r
Remember that if a moving bed, like an i3, your speed is limited by the bed mass. I have an E3Dlite6, and through Slic3r 1.2.9 I can manage 5 mm3/s volumetric extrusion of PETG at 225C. Probably more at 245C but the 225 keeps stringing down. One thing about the Lite... the little black clip that hold the PTFE stopped working and the PTFE slipped. So I melted the wades pathway at the top, to keeby RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteI am thinking about having another go with a sprung one with a weaker spring I did that, on my similar i3 with wades. With 2 springs the PETG filament would flatten and get stuck in the PTFE. With 1 spring, it works great.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Even if bent, the smooth Z rods should hold the X axis from moving. Sounds like your bearings on your X are moving.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
My M5 rods from Createc were completely straight, so it is possible to get good ones. I think they are real cheap, so just get more on ebay.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Could be that the Hatchbox just has a higher heat capacity, and if you don't heat it enough it does not flow out enough. But if you do heat it enough it will stay melted longer and give a stronger bond on the lower layer. Or not.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Too fast of a speed won't let the heater melt the filament fast enough, so the filament gets stuck in the nozzle, and the motor can't push it anymore, so it clicks.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I prefer no ABL. Just put the glass sheet on, and print.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
It's possible.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I had to go all the way down to 1.0.something to get it to compile on my XP.by RRuser - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Did not know you could do series. That would indeed need a higher voltage from the stepper.by RRuser - Firmware - mainstream and related support
What gcode viewer did you use? I have been looking for one that shows the travel paths like your pictures (gcode.ws does not).by RRuser - Slic3r
"Can someone look at this and tell me why the lines by the holes look different? " My first guess is too much retraction when it gets to the hole. After the hole, not enough plastic comes back out, and you get a shinkage look.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks like it it tuned very well.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Yea at first my wades idler was too tight and it squashed the filament which caused it to get stuck in the tube. I took off one spring on the idler, and now it's great.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't even consider anything but glass and PETG.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I think the results are great. I'll be posting more here: Have you adjusted your stepper drivers?by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
// default settings #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,710} // default steps per unit for MINE #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {200, 200, 3, 45} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {3000,3000,50,5000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot. #define DEFAby RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
"adjust that offset (in turn, dial in the first layer via firmware" What firmware setting do you use for this?by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants