Try this thread: . There is a huge amount to read through, but these issues have been reported and answered several times on it.by animoose - Printing
I made a similar change to the idler end for the motor, by adding a cylinder with a hole for a M3 screw. It makes adjusting the Z end position easier than moving the end stop. I did this by important the model into Blender, creating a new object for the cylinder with the M3 hole in it, and merging them with a Boolean union operator. However, I do have a little experience with Blender from thingsby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
@morrobotz: if your Z axis was working at 250 instead of 4000 you probably didn't attach the headers to the RAMPS board. The three headers (per motor) set it to 16x microstepping, and 250*16 = 4000.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quoteanimoose Here's a description of the X/Z rebuild: . Would you be so kind as to put your modified STL's on your thingiverse page? for the modified motor mount. for the end stop bracket.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Here's a description of the X/Z rebuild: .by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
The moosebot is back in operation after its X/Z axis transplant. Phew. No need to take up knitting. Still some adjustments to do. I'll probably write up what I did on my blog in a day or two.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesamaral Quoteanimoose I'm about to start rebuilding the X/Z axes using wderoxas's parts ( and , with one small change). If you don't hear me say any more about this, it means it all went wrong and I took up a different hobby, like knitting brightly colored socks for small dogs. @animoose: What material will you print these parts in (e.g., ABS, PLA, ... )? I printed in PLA, as that's the oby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm adapting the Z axis on my Folger 2020 to use 8mm lead screws. The design I have calls for 608zz bearings around the lead screws under the motor coupler. The bearing I have feel quite sticky. I have no experience with 608zz bearings, so I don't know if this is normal or whether the ones I have are not suitable. They move smoothly (no seizing or sudden jumps) but not freely. I don't know how toby animoose - General
I'm about to start rebuilding the X/Z axes using wderoxas's parts ( and , with one small change). If you don't hear me say any more about this, it means it all went wrong and I took up a different hobby, like knitting brightly colored socks for small dogs.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesamaral Quoteanimoose Quotesamaral Have any of you calibrated your folgertech using the thin wall test (e.g., )? If so how well did it come out and may I see pictures? Thanks, Early attempts: . This was before I had done much calibration and tuning of parameters in Silc3r. A later attempt while I was still working out some first layer issues . Here's a related test from the Makezine test sby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesamaral Have any of you calibrated your folgertech using the thin wall test (e.g., )? If so how well did it come out and may I see pictures? Thanks, Early attempts: . This was before I had done much calibration and tuning of parameters in Silc3r. A later attempt while I was still working out some first layer issues . Here's a related test from the Makezine test set .by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I also had a lot of Y axis noise. I was thinking of plastic bearings, and printed several designs, but all of them had high static friction. That is, when I applied a force to them they stuck then suddenly moved. I was doing this by hand with them on a spare piece of chrome rod, so it might not be an issue when driven by a motor. I started to take apart the Y assembly to replace the bearings witby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteejnelson Anyone tried printing any exotic filaments or know what the hot end can handle? It is the Mk7 right? I'm thinking about buying some taulman bridge, any experiences anybody? No experiences yet. I bought small samples of PETG and a PLA/PHA blend (supposed to be a bit less brittle than plain PLA), and I'm going to try them out next time I change filament.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
@samaral: yes you can connect the X end stop in the 6th position, where the one nearest the edge of the board is 1st and the one nearest the middle is 7th in the way Folger describe it. 6th position is for the X max endstop, 7th for X min. (Extra note: not important since you have it working. You can alternatively wire it up as the guide shows and change the firmware config by swapping the pin aby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebrian0 I'm having one helluva time getting my new machine to work properly, specifically getting everything set to home. Everything assembled relatively well. Where exactly is home on this machine? I would imagine the far back right corner, but I'm not sure. I've followed some of the steps previous in this thread, but I still can't figure out what's going on. My setup: -Standard buildby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecvanclev Hey all, really need some advice here. Pretty discouraged. I shorted my stepper driver in the initial build out and severely damaged the Arduino Mega. I ordered a new Mega, which I then installed and instantly smoked as well. Two Megas down. I then ordered an all new RAMPS/Mega combo, went to install today, checked EVERYTHING with a multimeter before powering on, even assembled wiby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I just added a reply in the comments for that video. Jason, can I also suggest you read the first couple of paragraphs of . It describes what I did to get it going. You have to have multiple things right - the physical connections, the firmware and the Repetier settings. If any one of them is wrong, or if they are not consistent with each other, then you can end up stick. Hope this helps (and mby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
My configuration.h (which is not from the latest version Marlin) says this, with the MAX lines commented out. #ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN #endif // The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch betweby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Mine too, and someone else early on this thread said the same. Once I had it all hooked up, it was much smoother and quieter than I expected. This is what mine sounded like at first . Maybe worse than it comes across on the video. Now it's quiet except on long slow moves.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16 Okay im confused, is there a certain distance for the sk8's? And is there an exact distance for the belt for the heated bed/y carriage? The relative position of these is set by the position where the bearing mounts and the belt mount attach to the aluminium bed. My suggestion is get them in roughly the right place until you attach the bed, and then fine tune them so that they areby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16 quick question i accidently bought a piece of glass 9.5" x 9.5" for the heated bed. Is that too big or could I make it work? The difficulty will be attaching it to the heated bed. It's about 8.5" x 8.5" so the glass will stick the edge by half an inch in each direction. It will be hard to clip in place.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
One thing I did the second time around was to stick kapton tape over all the pins on the stepper board except for the ground pin. I don't know if it helped, but it made me feel better.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry to hear about the blown electronics - it's really frustrating to be so close. One of my steppers didn't work, and I think it was the one that I was adjusting when I blew the board. However, it didn't seem to harm the replacement RAMPS or Mega. Once I found it wasn't working (because the extruder motor didn't run), I replaced it with the spare one in the kit and life was good.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I have that bounce as well. I assume it's deliberate (hypothesis: it does a fast move for the homing, then the bounce is to get a slower or shorter one with greater accuracy) and I decided not to worry about it.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecvanclev Huh. Might try just the Arduino as the budget is tight and the RAMPS board appears okay. Is there a better way to tune the drivers? Considering putting a dab of hot glue on the pins right next to it if they're that crazy close to a short. I was just really, really careful the second time, and didn't obsess about getting the voltages exactly right, just in the ballpark. You'll knowby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecvanclev Quoteanimoose Quotecvanclev Well, got all the hardware assembled and just finished configuration. Officially up and running! Well, sort of. Did the first manual tests in Repetier, and was able to move the X,Y, and extruder steppers. However, there is absolutely no response from the Z axis motors. I've noticed that the manual communication is glitchy at best, but I'm hesitant to starby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecvanclev Well, got all the hardware assembled and just finished configuration. Officially up and running! Well, sort of. Did the first manual tests in Repetier, and was able to move the X,Y, and extruder steppers. However, there is absolutely no response from the Z axis motors. I've noticed that the manual communication is glitchy at best, but I'm hesitant to start a full print without at leby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
40, 40, 90% for the first three and 150 for travel speed. I have tried cranking it up quite a way from these without hurting quality in most cases.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesk8 The prints I am getting are perfect other than the overhangs, is there a way to impove the quality without printing support material? This 3Dbenchy was printed at .2mm layer height. Cooling and slow printing are the only ways I know of improving the overhangs. My own Benchy and a bunch of other tricky tests are posted atby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants