QuoteNeverdone has anyone here tried to print transparent ABS? I picked up a spool to try and see how it goes. With the RC parts I have been making I thought some of it would be pretty cool to run transparent. When I tried to print it though it turned out more white than clear and the parts were very fragile like I did not have good adhesion between layers. I think that it was probably becausby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewatlooazn Guys im getting really frustrated. (Noob builder here). Everything I do, I keep making silly mistakes which take so much time to fix. I accidentally put the 3d printed part in the picture into the holes on THE RIGHT, and now I cant unscrew the nyloc nuts as they are stuck. (pic here) Please tell me that this is okay and I can keep it in these holes. If that is the case, wouldby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteThe Sto Quoteanimoose QuoteThe Sto That's what I'm afraid of.. I'm pretty sure that I messed the bed up when I initially soldered it. I had my dad re-do it who is much better at soldering than I am, but it still won't heat. I'm going to have to order a new one, but I was hoping that I would be able to print without the heated bed... It could be either the bed heater or the thermistor. Withby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteThe Sto That's what I'm afraid of.. I'm pretty sure that I messed the bed up when I initially soldered it. I had my dad re-do it who is much better at soldering than I am, but it still won't heat. I'm going to have to order a new one, but I was hoping that I would be able to print without the heated bed... It could be either the bed heater or the thermistor. With the power turned off, try mby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteThe Sto Alrighty guys, I've got all my issues fixed, ALMOST... I got all the axis working, I got the bed levelled, I got the extruder to work... Now when I try to print using Repetier Host, it says it's printing and gives me an estimated time on finishing, but isn't printing. I have the extruder up to temp, but it is saying Heating Extruder. I"m trying to print at 210, and the temp is 210. Iby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Thought you might be interested in a recent print. This uses an unusual filament called Biofila Linen which is designed to have a nice surface texture, and was printed using Slic3r's spiral vase mode. You can't tell the scale from the picture - it's about 65mm tall.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Apart from the PLA temperature, they will work at least to get going. Reduce the PLA temperature to something like 185 or 190. You can also get better results if you specify a lower speed for the first later (say 30% or 50%) or increase the thickness of it. Also I recommend adding M400 to the end code or you may lose a little of the top layer. It waits for the commands to finish. There are many mby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I switched to a new extruder this weekend. It's the same MK9 extruder that comes as standard with the 2020 these days, as opposed the the MK7 which shipped with the original version. The difference is that the MK9 has a sprung lever to hold the groove bearing in place, while the MK7 used a fixed mount. I think this makes it a bit more tolerant of variations in the diameter of the filament. I needby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
We're now up to 68 pages on this thread, which makes finding things quite a challenge. I set up a Google Custom Search Engine which might make it easier. Try this link:by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
The built in search on the reprap forums is not very good: it's slow, and does not have good relevance ranking. One alternative is a Google Custom Search Engine (CSE). This is a Google feature which allows you to create your own search over a restricted range of sites. It doesn't give all the features of Google, for example there is no clustering of similar results, but it is fast and gives goodby animoose - General
Quotetjnamtiw QuoteSpam Got my kit last week and I'm in the midst of assembling this... been reading this thread for an hour now, but didn't find what I'm looking for, so I apologize if this has been asked: I am assembling the extruder carriage, and the bearings don't fit in the saddles. The instructions say press them in, but they're off by about .8mm. at this point I plan on grinding down oby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
It is GizmoDorks PETG. I've been buying small amount from Filabits as a way of trying things out, as well as getting samples from other places too. For the curious, the full range of filaments in this are: GizmoDorks PETG, Meltink orange, Meltink grey, JustPLA yellow, Quantum3D orange/yellow, ColorFabb PLA/PHA blue, Taulman t-glase clear and (not visible) Biome red. I was going to use Sainsmartby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I've also had problems with Slic3r 1.2.9 and have gone back to 1.1.7. One example: I was trying to print Emmett's cube gear at 50% size, and got messy prints, in particular over extrusion on the top points of the gear (the corners of the cube). I could not find any combination of settings in 1.2.9 that made this go away and also tried with several different filaments. Switched to 1.1.7 and it wasby animoose - General
I have not done a lot with PETG, though I want to use it more as I've had really precise, high quality prints. Last weekend I did some prints with my usual 0.2mm settings: 0.2mm layer height, first layer 115%; 30% infill; various speed settings but mostly around 45 mm/s, except the first layer which I do at 30% speed. I used 225 or 230C for all layers on a bed at 80C. I have a cooling fan attacheby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoodknack So I finally ran trough a whole 2.2lbs roll off black PLA. Im getting more comfortable with my printer. So I ordered a bunch of different colors of PLA on Amazon yesterday (should be here tomorrow). But I had the bug to keep printing. And I remembered I had a sample of green PLA from Folger tech. The heat setting said 219 on the package. I soon realized that was way to hot for my sby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
OK, this isn't specific to the Folger, but I thought it might be of interest. I was using Cura for the first time recently instead of Slic3r and was wondering why the print time is so much less. I have the speed set slightly higher in Cura than in Slic3r, but only by a small amount. The critical difference turned out to be the minimum layer time. In Slic3r, this is on the Filament Setting page, Cby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I did a very simple remix to try to avoid the problem of hitting the mount before the endstop: .by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotesrcga Went to put some lithium grease in the bearings on the Y carriage last night. I just loosened the rods and backed them out enough to get inside the bearings. Getting a bit of bearing noise now, hope I didn't bend the rods . Will try to see if I can get them aligned and quiet it down These LM8UU bearings are starting to get on my nerves. When replacing the y-carriageby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Quoteanimoose I would love to see some pictures of the new extruder drive front end, if someone could take a few and post them. What part do you mean by the front end? I meant the part with the spring, the MK7 and the grooved bearing. But then I just realized that the photos you linked to in a comment on my blog show it pretty well.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I would love to see some pictures of the new extruder drive front end, if someone could take a few and post them.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Quoteanimoose Interesting - looks like Folger have redesigned the extruder since the earlier version (I mean when the 2020 first came out). Originally, they didn't have a spring mechanism. Yours doesn't have a spring? I thought I just couldn't see it in the pictures. How do they keep pressure between the idle pulley and drive gear? It's a different design altogether, something likeby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Interesting - looks like Folger have redesigned the extruder since the earlier version (I mean when the 2020 first came out). Originally, they didn't have a spring mechanism.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMrfus I should be getting my printer tomorrow Monday! I tried to read as much as I was able but after page 23 of 58 started getting lost... what are the basic tips and pointers for the assembly? thanks! I agree that it's hard to get to grips with such a deluge of information. When I was building mine, I kept some notes in my blog (see the link below). It's not a how-to guide, just some dby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSpeedyDad1 animoose - Looks like you hit the nail on the head. It started doing the 10 degrees below thing again so I upped the PID_MAX (couldn't find MAX_PWM) to 256 and it now heats up fine. Thanks! Great! And I did mean PID_MAX not MAX_PWM.by animoose - Reprappers
I've ordered them from boltdepot.com. You pick what you want.by animoose - General
Quotemsaeger Anyone found or made a adjustable Z end stop switch holder that fits on this machine? I keep finding ones that are for the motors on the bottom. For my X/Z rebuild I used this with this . Not sure it's exactly what you wanted.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I think this is where the tensioner came from: . I printed it ages ago, so I am not certain. One thing to note is that you have to pick the length of the on the movable side carefully or else it gets in the way. I used a M3x12 with three washers to get it exactly right. Probably M3x10 would work, I just didn't have any to hand.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I didn't use lock washers and that's a good idea. I hold the bolt in place with an Allen key which I turn the adjuster. I'll swap them out when I can next face going through relevelling the bed.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Just finished a minor rebuild of the Y subsystem: replaced the bearings and lubricated them, which I didn't do the first time round, and replaced the belt block with one that has an adjustable tensioner: I also added washers to the adjustment screws for the heated bed, so now they go (from top to bottom): bolt, washer, heater, washer, spring, washer, aluminium base, washer, adjustment nut, likeby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for your suggestions. I really appreciate how people are willing to step in and advise on this forum. There is a fan attached to the extruder, but a very weak one, and I've been doing tests with it 30mm above the bed, so it's not likely to have much effect. I've been running some tests on the time to heat from cool (after leaving it for a long time) to 80C and have seen values of 7 minuteby animoose - Reprappers