Pitch is 2mm. X and Y steppers I run at about .7 volts and Z at about .85.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
You need to get rid of the wavy problem before anything else. Do an extrusion calibration. I find pronterface easy. Mark 100mm of filament and then extrude 100mm and measure. It should be 100mm into the extruder. The extrusion should be smooth with the same thickness. What speed are you printing at? I fine 25 the best. I had a small banding problem at .2mm but went away at .3mm layer height. Hadby Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
Have a weird problem. Gradually the bed would go out of level. After changing the bad right x axis mount It still done the same thing. Measured the right axis mount vs the left, there were not the same. Set them the same by moving one of the axis acme screws. Leveled the bed and prints were good again.They gradually went out again. Notice when auto level, the value of the front left increased inby Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
You need all the files in one dir. Then open marlin.pde file using Arduino. At the top you will see the list of files. Click on the configuration.h file Then you can edit it. #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT line is what you want. There are four values separated by a comma. X,Y,Z and E. E is the value you want to change for stepping in the extruder. Printers vary so much I don't know the valueby Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
Put ohm meter on a lower range. 2k ohm range will not indicate headbed ohms. Is the ohm reading with the heatbed attached to the board or not? If not attached reading should be 1.5 to 2.5 ohms or so. Disconnect from board and measure resistance of heatbed output on board. This should tell you where the problem is. Too much heat will blow the mosfet. They should have good heatsinks but don't.by Putzer - General
I can't use Windows 8.1. Has to do with certificates. From what I read Windows 8.0 should work. 8.1 checks the drivers different than 8.0. There is a work around but am happy using Windows 7.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
I am attaching a configuration.H file. My problem is it won't let me go above 260. Probably in the boards.h file.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
I have the Migbot and my settings for E stepper extrusion value is only 100 . Was changed from 94.56 to calibrate for 100mm extrusion. Have to post a configuration.H file when I get to another computer. I know they send different parts as mine has a metal extruder head mount. One Migbot is not the same as another.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
You need to change the value of the extruder stepper in marlin using Arduino 1.0.1. It is the line that states the stepper values for X, Y, Z and E. Be sure your board is selected in Arduino. Open up the Marlin pde file. Click on the configuration.H at the top. Make your changes. Make sure your are connected to the board with correct baud rate through usb and then send. It will compile and if noby Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
an't get the print to the center of the bed. Always goes to the left front no matter what coordinates I change.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
Update to my Migbot. Linear bearings started to make noise. Lightly coated rods with lithium base white grease. No more noise. Extrusion parts soften. Replaced with an all metal upgrade. Fan on extruder needs to be replaced. Replacing bed leveling probe since it is made of plastic and can't tighten the screws without changing the settings. Still haven't replaced the warped right axis holder. Replby Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
jad51 I can confirm that the pnp will work with the resistor set up. the 10k resistor acts as a pull down also. Made up one but didn't connect to signal on board. It has no voltage when it is not near metal meaning no but voltage goes to 12 volts ( no load on 15k) when near metal (nc). Wise to use the 5 volt regulator. Firmware needs to be change in the logic settings.by Putzer - Reprappers
225-230 too hot for PLA? I print PLA at 195 at 30mm.by Putzer - Printing
Update to my Migbot. Frogtape works great instead of blue tape. Smoother surface, easier to put on and sticks better. I couldn't figure out why sometimes the layer is ok at on end but starts separating on the other. Since the acme screws were already installed on the Z stepper motors I assumed they were aligned . My mistake. I notice the Z stepper motors moving as the X axis moved across on the sby Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
@veaceonce Mine sat in HK for two weeks. Once it got to the states I had it the next day. Took over a month to receive it once it was ordered. Changed power supply and now my printer is working. Only 23.00 for a 30amp one. Only thing is I can't change the temperature settings on the extruder and bed. Starts at 205 on the extruder and 65 on the bed for the first layer.then drops to 200 extruder aby Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
I noticed in the original firmware file the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER for the LCD is enabled and states it has a white PCB. Mine PCB is green. Wonder if it has to do with losing my display.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
Ran into a new problem. Loaded configuration.h into Arduino. Uploaded. It seem to upload alright since I had blue lights flashing for a second and it reported upload complete. Now I have two lines of squares the screen and lost display control. Reflashed several times with no luck. All I wanted is to enable auto leveling. Should left it alone since SD card worked. Any help?by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
My Migbot update. On windows 8.1 I can make a gcode file from stl. Can't connect to printer because Windows 8.1 don't like the drivers furnished with the Migbot. On Windows 7 home I can install the drivers but slicer don't work in Cura. I still can't connect to the printer. Loading the gcode onto the sd card I can run a test print. I have to unplug and plug it in again for printer to recognizeby Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
@tkin My printer came with heavy wires. Am well aware of current draw working with electronics all the time. @ Invictus Take the screws that hold the bushing out. Make sure all rods are equal distance. look and see that the lead screws in the top are centered. You should see how much to shim bottom of bushing when you tighten up the screws holding the bushing. Had to file mount to make it flat.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
My experience with the Migbot. Thermistor in the hot end was shorted by the allen screw, Took it out, measured resistance and was ok. Put some thermal paste on it and watched the tightening of the screw. Right side Z axis mount was bad. Screw would bind. leveled the screw holder. X,Y and Z axis now run free. Heater bed would not heat up very fast. Voltage dropped to 9 volts when on leading to aby Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants