on slic3r, there is a setting for first layer width. Try reducing that.by Qdeathstar - Printing
I feel like i have gotten both extruders to work well, one at a time, so the next logical step is to get them working together for one print. It aint that easy. I am having an issue setting the offsets. No matter what i put into slicer, repetier, or even using the G10 command, the print comes out the in the same exact position... Kinda printing as if both extruders were in the same spot. Any idby Qdeathstar - Printing
And stop being stubborn and post a video or at least pictures.by Qdeathstar - Printing
How is it better that slicer ?by Qdeathstar - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
It turns out that i had my parameters set to 90% and that led to under extrusion during the single wall test.by Qdeathstar - Printing
if you aren't willing to do the work, we can't help you. We can't imagine what your problem looks like.by Qdeathstar - Printing
I got the replikeo dual extruder and my experience has been positive. I paid for dhl shipping and the box came in good shape... Also, I skipped th Carbon plate and include heat bed and got a mk3 for 20 bucks on Amazon... Everything worked and I was able to get a good print within a week of delivery. The cons I had were: Misleading shipping speed (the say 5 days but it actually took 3 week, pluby Qdeathstar - General Mendel Topics
I haven't covered this hole and have printed right over if with no issues... I think it's small enough that the tension in the plastic keeps everything straightby Qdeathstar - Reprappers
Take a picture anyway. What you are describing could be different than what im imagining. How did you verify that your calibrations were correct?by Qdeathstar - Printing
Calibrate your z steps??? Can you take a pic Have tried hairspray??by Qdeathstar - Printing
I'm going to try to mess with the retraction settings.. I have it set to 4cm on a Boden drive, which I read somewhere else a while ago is way to high... Will report backby Qdeathstar - Printing
I have measured my filament at 1.73mm so I'm not sure your topic helpsby Qdeathstar - Printing
Oh, forgot the decimal .1mm Heh. Edit: Hey, I didn't forget the decimal About retraction, I am using it, but how do I calibrate it with regards to the test cube?by Qdeathstar - Printing
yeah, I know that. however, for the thin wall test my understanding was that the wall thickness should match your nozzle width.. eg here: .5mm wall for a .5mm nozzle,by Qdeathstar - Printing
after reading how you are supposed to print a single walled cube to calibrate the extrusion multiplier, I decided to give it a go... I made a quick cube that was 20mm square and .4mm thick, the same size as my nozzle. then I printed using .1mm level height... the result I got was a lot of gaps which looked like a clogged nozzle/under extrusion... but when I print a normal cube or anything eby Qdeathstar - Printing
fyi, Id recommend actually testing the tempatures you expect with a meter... they could have told you the wrong thermistor, for instance... I found my readings were off by 30cby Qdeathstar - Printing
where did you buy it from? I might would check the quality of the solder connections on the Arduino clone and controller board, as well as checking the voltage comming out of the power supply while the machine is running,by Qdeathstar - Printing
If your extruder is properly calibrated (a better option) you shouldn't have to mess with the multiplier..by Qdeathstar - Printing
maybe your stepper driver is set too low?by Qdeathstar - Printing
after you connect, press the reset button on your printerby Qdeathstar - Prusa i3 and variants
as far as the water cooling, I havnt had to go to tha extreme... maybe your fan is positioned backward? that happened to me.....by Qdeathstar - Printing
Quotekoenejet Never mind what I asked about it starting too high. I figured out why. I wasn't thinking about it right. yeah, it would affect all the layers because the next move would also be higher, you could still get good bed adhesion, depending on a number of factors... keep us updated so as to help the person who stumbles into this topic.by Qdeathstar - Printing
to me, it looks like your hot end is starting too high off the print bed (the waviness resulting from the filament falling back and forth), and your under extruding (gaps between shell/infill) You could also be printing too fast. (backlash)by Qdeathstar - Printing
a picture is worth more than three paragraphs.by Qdeathstar - Printing
you should design one with built in belt tensioners and if not a proximity sensor for the z-stop, maybe put the z-stop on the top, easier calibration, imo.by Qdeathstar - Prusa i3 and variants
you should download and install repetier host, connects it to your printer, and see if you can get the print to home. yes, the fan over the hot/cool end needs to be running continuously, otherwise your printer will jam this thread maybe of helpby Qdeathstar - Prusa i3 and variants
Some pics... I can't seem to get the dual extruders perfectly level.. I got the bed actually level, and in using auto leveling, but the second extruder still wants to dig in slightly to the plastic, resulting in a slight waviness to the print where the print herald rises and lowers over the bumps in the plastic... Any ideas?by Qdeathstar - Prusa i3 and variants
I have to say, i am happy with this printer, i feel it is a good choice for a beginner. The only immidiate upgrades i would recommend is the MK3 heatbed, and the proximity sensor on the z axis, not just for auto leveling, but because it helps put the extruder in exactly the right spot everytime without having to worry about a springy zstop switch. Most of the things i got as an "upgrade" ended uby Qdeathstar - Prusa i3 and variants