I thought I had read they liscened the product from direct3drive (or something, there was an argument over ethics on the kickstarter page but mutley3D never addressed it) and its not like flexible drive shafts are particularly special. It does have an outer jacket. However I do agree they should be more open about the specs, particularly in the measurements department... they won't release any ofby Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
I am building this with a drill press. It's still a work in progress. I use higher quality digital calipers and a starret center punch to lay everything out, then I drill the holes. You need high quality drill bits and taps. When I made my measurements I made them from an uncut side so they would be the most accurate. I spent $60 on some taps and $90 on some drill bits for this project and they hby Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
A should have printed the endstop mounts and got a real hotend (e3d) and good electronics (duet).by Qdeathstar - Delta Machines
They are pretty similar, however the price difference is not that much,by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
I am starting to get to the point where i need to plan how to to mount my bed to the printer. The easiest way seems to use screws and springs at three points like a prusa i3. However, that isn't the path many have chose. I see little balls placed under the bed. What are they? How do you secur the bed to the round balls? How to you machine the aluminum plate so that the bottom of it is round? Woulby Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
Part Daddy from seemeCNC uses pellets in a hopper to feed its extrusion system. No filament.by Qdeathstar - Bounties
i pronounce it headscalf. The J is silent.by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
Have you considered putting them on the backside of the printer in a mini cabinet?by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
Some minor updates I managed to mock up a cable carrier. I'm not sure if this one will have enough room to carry all the cables i need, but i bought multiple sizes so once i move into the wiring phase i'll make my decision. One of the biggest changes is that i decided to go with 3" L bracket for a more roomier feel. It doesn't cost me any y space, but it might cost me some x space. I'm notby Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
I think that anyone is enough volume for a printer like this to be appealing would much rather buy machines meant to thisby Qdeathstar - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
skookum as frig ^_^ If you had to put a price on that sculpture, what would it be? Gotta machine some aluminum pieces to enclose the electronics though. That plastic bin sticks out like a sore thumb!by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
I think the problem with that is that they will fail gradually, and your printer will require recalibration as the plastic fails.by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
Actually, the could want to do it for looks. A parallelogram printer would look pretty sweet if done correctly. Plus, I imagine the print movement would look pretty cool....by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
In the context we are talking about, a core xy printer must have it's belts parallel AND at 90 degrees since it seems unreasonable to expect the OP to write his own firmware. I mean, it's possible, sure, but I think the probability range lies somewhere between me winning the powerball jackpot and becoming president tomorrow. Although, if everything is at right angles it will be constrained andby Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
The Digital Dentist, I saw you were HTD 3M steel reinforced belt to lift the z axis. My question is, is all HTD 3M belt steel reinforced or do i have too look for that? Also, how wide is your belt? It looks like it is around 10mm.. I also saw how you got 36t pulleys to drive the z axis. Are GT2 pulleys the same as HTD pulleys? Did you use the toothed pulleys for the top and bottom of the z drby Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
No particular reason. I had them for my delta printer as at one point I was considering installing them as an upgrade on the delta. Never got around to it (working in the delta was kind of pain because the electronics are in a small compartment on the bottom), so in they go. I got two more but I think I am going to use an inductive sensor for the z endstop. Worked well on my i3..by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
Nothing to write home about, but it should protect the Hall effect sensors... just clips onto the protoboard... I put little holes on the top so I can see the end stop status.... didn't really show up in the picture.by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
i don't have a panel due, the web interface is soooo nice i don't miss it On the printer i am building now i definately will be getting a panel due though, just because. I've used ramps, then rambo, and now duet and duet is definately worth the money. Many people use the single motor/multiple leadscrews for the z axis. You can tight up the belts with a pulley and a screw that pulls on the puby Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
Just a small update today. I got the endstops for x and y going. I am using hall effect sensors. I am planning to print a small cover to cover the sensors The wiring routes underneath the extrusion so that you don't have to see itby Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
Also, There is another annoying issue. When i home, i have my max build size set to 360mm x and y in both simplify3D and the firmware. However, when I jog the controls past 360 the machine will not move (expected) but simply3D shows the head position as being past my software endstop (400mm for example) When i go back the opposite direction, the machine moves backwards the commanded amount,by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
I am moving slow. I just got my endstops for x and y hooked up. I've designed the printer so that i home y first, and then x. Is there a way to change the home all function to home in a specific order?by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
In my build, I am using 2040 extrusion with 10mm rails. That leaves about 2.5mm on either side that the rail is riding on. It seems to work fine. I think the T-Nuts pull up on the aluminum extrusion just as much as the rail pulls down on it. Seems rock solid. Will know for sure once I start printing.by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
Ooh, I wonder how much you'd have to buy to get green pei!by Qdeathstar - Printing
Looking pretty skookem. What kind of mill do you got? I really want to get one... was debating between a grizzly or a pm.... with power downfeed and dro. I doubt I'll want to go cncby Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
That kind of looks like issues with temperature. Have you calibrated your thermistors with a dmm?by Qdeathstar - Printing
Honestly, if its thin enough it might appear clear. They are selling pei sheets that are only 5mil thick.... If abs sticks hard to it you know it's legit.by Qdeathstar - Printing
45/135 Printed at 4000mm/min according to simplify3D.. looks good I think. Their is some slight movement of the frame when it changes directions repeatedly at the corners, but I'm not sure if it's that the frame needs stiffening or just because I have it siting on a carpet... it didn't seem to affect the print too much.by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
i will try some 45/135 movements tomorrow.. The belts are about as tight as i can get them... but i haven't checked to see of the stepper teeth are level with the rest of the idlers beyond just visual inspection... I think i might need to make the belt claps a little tighter, as i have the belt bath as 3.5mm instead of 3mm to give myself a little room, but it's possible the belt will get loose wby Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
good idea, cause inkscape is a pain in the ass... I took the speed up as fast as she would suffer without having to adjust jerk/acceleration settings in the firmware.by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines
I got accomplished what i wanted to today.. I need to figure out the plotter software because it took about 4 hours to figure how to go from .png to .gcode in inkscape!by Qdeathstar - CoreXY Machines