I had this problem until I rebuilt my MK8 by removing the yellow Kapton tape (threw it away forever) and used red RTV high temp silicone to hold the thermistor into the block then I used a larger (set/grub screw) to hold the heater cartridge which I coated with heat sink grease and put in place. And finally I changed the heat sink fins on the extruder fan from vertical orientation to horizontal aby Roger123D - Printing
The easiest way I found was to remove my nozzle then used a vernier to raise the bottom of the block 100 mm exactly above the bed and cutting filament flush with block bottom then use the manual extruder control in the software to extrude filament until it reaches the bed and write that number down it may be 90 or 110. So our measured distance is 100 mm lets say our display shows we only fed 90 mby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
If you want a steel printer simply get an acrylic kit and take all the plastic parts to a laser cutting machine shop and have the parts made in steel,stainless aluminum whatever the only real part I can see I would change on mine is the Y axis bed,bearing mounting plate and the x,z bearing blocks. The frame seems ok. I am using an MK8 extruder and satisfied once I siliconed the thermistor in theby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Try plugging the bed thermistor into extruder position and the extruder into the bed plug and see if 363 moves down to bed temp if so your extruder thermistor is either bad or you may have pulled one of the thermistor wires apart during assembly in which case solder them together again. Regardless of bad sensors you should be able to do a dry run on X Y and Z without any filament. The M999 code iby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
First off don't use wires or drills to clean nozzle it may distort opening, remove the nozzle and use a propane/butane torch and heat it up till the material melts and burns out, some soak in acetone and before you put nozzle back in try feeding filament by hand through the extruder it should come through easy otherwise that barrel needs to be removed and cleaned out. There are a couple good tutoby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
The Eprom config will be unavailable if the printer is not connected to the computer via usb cable and connected in the program you are using as in ready to print then is should be availableby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
I agree , I was considering using a dial indicator but if it was mounted at the side where the auto level sensors are then it is not measuring at the exact point of the nozzle location anyhow so I do the manual thing. I started using the LCD positioning for the xy positions which was a pain. So now I get both Z axis lead screws same height then I Home all axis then disable the steppers after haviby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Make sure the extruder stepper motor is calibrated properly, what I did was remove just the nozzle then get the filament flush with bottom opening in heater block which I then moved 200mm up from bed exactly..Then you manually feed the extruder till the filament touches the bed and it should show 200 mm not 190 or 205 but 200 exactly otherwise you need to change the steps/mm for the extruder stepby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
I wonder if you can even get the bed level enough maybe with a granite bed using air bearings that is 0.3 thou as in .0003 inches and take a while to printby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
My main reason to upgrade to an E3D is to be able to print with higher temperature materials that would melt the teflon inside the barrels of normal hot ends and it appears they have better heat dissipation at that part as we only want melted material in the tips and not in the barrel. The clamping of the actual heater cartridge is much better than just some easily stripped set screw(Grub screw)by Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
They need to be wired in series if you have only one terminal for the two steppers then red and green from #1 Stepper goes to terminal on the board...... #1 blue connect to #2 red then #1 black to #2 green and finally #2 black and blue go to the board terminals You now have only 2 wires from each stepper going to a terminal block on the board the others are spliced togetherby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Assuming the end stops you speak of are micro switches when you hook an ohmmeter to its wires it should read infinity or open circuit and when you push down on it you should see a closed circuit or zero ohms.If this does not happen replace the micro switch. If you get a closed circuit without pushing on the switch and open when you press the switch it is wired wrong. Most micro switches have 3 teby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Most likely the heater element is loose in the block.There is a small set screw to tighten the heater to the block and check the thermistor is making good contact to this block or some cases the nozzleby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Just finished building my A3 Afinibot and found the instruction manual incomplete and outdated, wires fell off x axis micro and soldering wires back on melted it so had to replace with a slightly different one without roller think its too short as the X axis motor keeps running at Home position but shuts off ok if I trip it manually halfway across. Getting familiar with the LCD and settings befoby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Just purchased this printer dec 2015 the board appears to be a Melzi version 2 with one exception my board has receptacles for all steppers including two for the Z axis and not the green terminal blocks shown in the instruction manual which also shows a wiring diagram to series connect,cut,splice into one plug the two Z axis steppers.Note All steppers have plugs on them as well. My ohmmeter probiby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants