Also make sure your cables to the head are secured to the carrier and that there is enough slack in them. When I first set my machine up it would partly pull the plug out of the extruder stepper when in certain positions. This wasn't enough to be obvious, but it was enough to cause intermittent connections. I increased the cable slack and tied the wires, no more problems since.by Supermec - Printing
I don't know anything about that particular MOSFET. I personally believe in not pushing electronic components near to their limits, so I chose a 30A that has excellent connectors and is available from Amazon (look up hotbed MOSFETS). The cost was about £15 sterling. I'm very happy with the quality and it is provided with an excellent heat sink.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, the extruder connections normally cause less problems as they carry much less current than the power and bed connectors. These chinese connectors do not seem to have the surplus capacity that EU and US ones do. The problem is that: a) these connectors, including the bed and power ones, are not suitable for connections using stranded wire. b) the power connector is carrying close to its suppoby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Neville, fix the MOSFET (which is mounted on its own circuit board) anywhere on the printer that is convenient. You will need to take a seperate positive and negative supply from the PSU (12V ? depending on your bed) to the power input connections of the MOSFET (12gauge fine stranded silicon covered wire is recommended). Disconnect the existing bed heater wires from your existing relay and run tby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Neville, firstly the wattage of the extruder is much lower than the hot bed, so that the current involved is also smaller. The diode will start to flash as the extruder nears the set temperature since the systems means of controlling the temperature is to turn off the current and then to turn it on again as the extruder cools slightly. The extruder has a much lower thermal mass than the bed so itby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Don't know about the coms issues, but I suspect there may be some. If your extruder reads 500 then you definitely have either an extruder thermistor problem or a bad connection somewhere in the the connection to it.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
A few more things, in which I am assuming that you have a mark 8 type extruder. 1) Is the extruder cooling fan running ? It should run all the time that power is on. Its job is to keep the upper part of the throat tube and the extruder drive cool so that the filament doesn't soften before it reaches the heater block. 2) Is the extruder cooling fan mounted correctly ? It should be blowing towardsby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
If you can push the filament in easily by hand with the pinch wheel released then it is not a temperature issue. A few possibilities that I can think of. 1. Check the screws securing the extruder gear on the stepper spindle. One of the two screws should be pressing on the flat of the shaft. 2. Check that the plug on the extruder motor is not getting disturbed by the wires so that it is affectedby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Use the glass if you want to, but also use some suitable metalic tape on top of the glass to trigger the sensor.by Supermec - Printing
Above all the surface that you are printing on must be completely free from oil and grease (including that on your hands and fingers). This requires that the surface is cleaned with alcohol, but I wouldn't recommend that you do this to the bed surface itself, since this may remove part of the protective coating. I see you have covered the bed with Kapton tape, this surface can then be cleaned witby Supermec - Printing
Use a sharp flat scraper or a sharp 1/4" chisel with the flat side towards the bed.by Supermec - Printing
With that bed temperature you must have been printing ABS. Did you remember to turn the print cooling fan off ? ABS does not like being cooled quickly. Were you printing with 100% infill ? If so could you reduce this? The higher the infill the more the contraction forces.by Supermec - Printing
I haven't had this problem but I have the code for a 4mm retract in my ending code (I put this back in the start code for the next print). I leave the printer on with the cooling fan running until the extruder drops below 120. The other thing to do is to clean the back end of the nozzle and the bottom end of the throat tube. When re-assembling, don't screw the nozzle completely in by say 0.1 toby Supermec - Printing
Is the pinch wheel pressing the filament hard enough against the extruder gear? If it isn't, and the gear is wearing a groove in the filament, then this might account for why it restarts after you hand feed the filament through.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Try the reset button on the control board, there is a lockout after a thermistor failure.by Supermec - Printing
I don't use the slicers that you mention so I am not familiar with their settings. You say that you have a Bowden extruder, how long have you had it? I understand that with Bowden extruders the filament snakes from side to side in the feed tube. This means that the length of filament between the drive and the nozzle must be longer than the actual length before the pressure required to push the fiby Supermec - Printing
Hi FA_MAS, I've had a look at your gcode in Repetier host, and in all the layers that you provided only every other run of filament is being printed. It is something to do with your Cura settings and not the extruder nor the calibration. I encountered a slight wierdo like this a bit back when I was using a first layer extrusion width greater than 100%. This spaced the filament runs in the firstby Supermec - Printing
I would say not enough support to the top of the PTFE tube. It seems to stick out a fair amount from the throat tube. Maybe it is getting warm and becoming more flexible, so that it takes less effort to flex the PTFE tube than it does to drive the filament through the hot end.by Supermec - Printing
The teflon liner is a close fit in the throat tube and anyway, if you have the throat tube the correct way up, the entry hole is only marginally larger than the filament and it should not be possible to displace the liner. The large end of the throat tube should be towards the bottom. If you have used too high an extruder temperature it is just possible that you have melted the liner, but that shby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
If the filament is coming back out of the extruder it seems to me that there is too much retraction going on somewhere.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
I can't claim any credit for this one if it solves the problem as someone else posted it earlier tonight. Use the printer menu (if it has one) to look at configuration, or send it an M503 command from Repetier Host and check the steps/mm setting of the extruder. Someone found that theirs was set to zero, and of course the extruder wouldn't feed.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
On the SD card supplied there is a software folder. This has sub folders with the CH340 driver, Cura 14.07 and Repetier Host 1.0.5. There is another folder on the card that contains operating instructions. These tell you how to install the software, You will need to copy the software to your PC before carrying out the installation. Make sure that when you run the install the box "install Arduinoby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry Kalle, my last response was a bit rambling. Let me try again. If the problem occurs in mid print then it is unlikely to be a firmware problem, particularly if the print has printed OK previously and you have made no firmware changes in between. Firmware does not normally change itself since it has to be written to specific non-volatile memory and normally requires a loader to do it. It coby Supermec - Printing
How are you printing the print? Is it via USB from Repetier Host or are you printing from a file on the SD card? If you are printing from Repetier with error messages turned on, then is there an error message at the point it all goes wrong? I had been happily turning out prints up to 2 hours long from Repetier up to a couple of days ago, when all of a sudden the software began missing OK messageby Supermec - Printing
What slicer are you using ? Have you set the default bed temperature in the machine settings in the slicer ? Have you set the bed temperature under the filament settings in the slicer ? The slicer settings will over-ride anything that you do before hand in terms of preheating.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
thonys, mi dispiace che non posso aiutarsi. Non conosco abbastanza le parole techniche in italiano per le stampanti 3D. Non sono cose che un traduttore automatico fa bene. Sarebbe meglio che trova un sito come questo in italiano.by Supermec - Printing
Think what is happening - uncontrolled and unwanted movement of the print head. Don't complicate things by changing filaments, levelling the bed etc., these are things that are not going to cause the problem. It has got to be something that can affect the movement. Firmware fault - maybe but unlikely, Board fault - possibly, wiring fault - possibly. Start by seeing what the printer is being toldby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
If you want to print Ninjafex surely you would be better sticking to a direct drive extruder?by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Prima deve comminciare con un esepemio soltanto. Sebbene che parli italiano, e' difficile per me capire il problema. Deve spiegare che cosa stava tentando di stampare ed anche TUTTI gli impostaizioni che ha usato con Slic3R per stamparlo. Forse c'erano esempi di stampa con il stampante (la carta SD)? Ha usato un esempio ? L'esempio ha stampato bene?by Supermec - Printing
Stan510, run the slicer on the model file (making sure the settings are correct for your printer) and save the resulting gcode file on your laptop. Use an SD card reader to transfer the file to the SD card as you would transfer any other file. Eject the SD card and insert it into the printer with the printer turned OFF. It should automatically mount and read the SD card when turned on. If you waby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants