Skirt is playing ball after a few more tweaks. Still missing a trick regarding the brim.by WesBrooks - Slic3r
Update: Yes, unchecking extra perimeters if needed got rid of the additional perimeters on the last slice of the bulk section of the part. So the remaining questions: Why did slic3r think they were needed (no gaps in previous layer)? Why was it treating this upper surface any different to the bulk when upper solid layers was set to 0? How is skirt / brim extrusion thickness controlled?by WesBrooks - Slic3r
Slow first layer is because it is thicker! Daft me... I think the extra perimeters may be something to do with the parameter that I've got in bold. Any idea why Slic3r may think they are needed? I'll check this in the morning when back at work. Still confused about how to force the extrusion thickness for skirt and brim. Here is a sample file: 3D preview: Here is the preview part way thougby WesBrooks - Slic3r
I'm running 0.3|0.2 layer thickness, 2.8mm3/sec volumetric rate (auto speed - slow TPU), with volumetric extrusion and firmware retracts. A few issues: I'd been doing sample 20mm square single pass 0.7mm wall but seem unable to disable the slow down on the first layer? I'd set extrusion width to 0.7 and first layer speed to 100% but it still slowed down? How are you supposed to control the widby WesBrooks - Slic3r
The import version for me is version *.2. It was one of the ones that version *.1 on the arm and *.2 on the sticker on the PSU. I can't build it for a while as I promised my better half I'd finish a few other open projects off first! No chores, all for my benefit they've just mounted up a bit! Currently debating whether to build the printer as is or get the uprated x-arm straight away. Not sureby WesBrooks - Ormerod
Parcel arrived. Charged the 20% duty plus £10 handling charge from parcel force. Around £41 in charges, so brand new Ormerod 2 for around £190 including shipping!by WesBrooks - Ormerod
STL isn't far of a raw mesh. It's a bit of a crappy format given today's computing power, even on raspberry pies. There's no information on shared vertexes. The only information is a huge sequence three coordinate sets. Most stl object handlers that I've worked with post process the files with assumptions to try and rebuild the connectivity information. I get the impression this would be an easyby WesBrooks - General
It's the pattents that are a big issue. Pattents expiring are what triggered the material extrusion printer reprap boom. Revent pattent expiries have seen the projection vat photopolymerisation technologies fall into the relms of the open source world. Likewise there are open source laser powder bed fusion technology projects now. Main issue is that stops these being mainstream is the cost of theby WesBrooks - General
Quotecozmicray the 3D printing world needs a type of language to move forward I don't follow the argument you are making? Can you explain another way? STL (Stereolithography) and gcode files (adapted from nc machine control) are exactly that? I suspect the open source efforts for laser sintering and projector based systems use different files. Move outside open source and each vendour willby WesBrooks - General
Quoteobelisk79 The benefit is just to make the g code more concise and as a bonus the files would become much smaller. Use a binary file format if you want them smaller. Readable formatting is a huge waste of disc space. Giving the user the ability to adjust coordinate data in the slice file is wasted effort as you'd need a program/script to to much real world build file edits and the original dby WesBrooks - General
Think what I was suggesting wasn't too clear. 1) New build file to include mesh data, scaling, offset, and rotation translation information for the mesh files (copies of the same part to run from the same data), and part/build process parameters. 2) Processing of the build file to happen concurrently to the machine starting a build process. The concurrent slicer to process as many slices as posby WesBrooks - General
QuoteOrigamib I have to say, am I missing something? Is slicing something people don't like doing? I find it is not an excessively annoying part of my tool chain. Not so much missing something. Wasn't it nice when you could press the on button on your computer and have enough time to brew a cuppa tea properly before it was ready to do anything? It takes Slic3r far laess time to slice a averageby WesBrooks - General
I'm assuming you can get slic3r to chuck out slices on demand. Were they ran like this in the past via serial before complete build files were uploaded? Difference now is arduinos are being blended with computers, perhaps this needs consideration for the third generation of Duets? Perhaps an add on card as it'd significantly increase board cost and complexity. Generic add on is probably best asby WesBrooks - General
I like the idea of what you are proposing, but in an ideal world the GCode is too lower level to be particularly portable. While we're on the topic of gcode I agree the G1 codes should be largely parameter independant and point to a header section of the file that lists parameter info to use in the absence of machine defined overrides or ensure there is a default safe set of parameters that theby WesBrooks - General
I've ordered some bits to improve the zaxis drive as I had screw pitched z wobble on my last Ormerod. What artefacts on the prints should I be looking out from the acrylic xaxis parts or is it more a case of the axis compensation going out if you breathe on the machine?by WesBrooks - Ormerod
Sorry when I said check at the noard end I meant the lead to the thermistor on the plug that connects to the board. Judging by this thread 10k is a valid reading:by WesBrooks - Ormerod
Hi all. Having only recently broken up my Ormerod at work I've just ordered one for home. Ironically found a few on sale in Australia on ebay. Hope to have it back here for less than £200 including duty! Will be looking closely at the metal x-axis and any other mods people recommend to build in from the start.by WesBrooks - Ormerod
Ah right, filament supplier rather than printed components. Thanks for the warning. I did at one stage look at how much work these machines would need to do to pay for themselves. Some of the prices that I've seen on ebay and the like must be nearly material only. Biggest cost I could see was operator time until you've done a suitable amount of mods to allow you to leave it running unattended.by WesBrooks - Printing
The D-Bot I built for work was based around parts from an eastern European eBay supplier in PET. What were you're issues with them? Would like to know so I can keep an eye out for them! Some of my parts have cracked a little under tightening but so far not killed anything! Looking to build my own parts for the home machine just to save a little money and gain experience.by WesBrooks - Printing
Hi All, I'm looking at a RepRap system on eBay that I eventually plan to use to print the DBot Core-XY parts which are quite chunky. Other than PLA what materials do people find print well without an enclosure on a PCB heat bed? Build surface will be glass coated with kapton tape. With my system at work (thingverse Core-XY DBot) I can print PLA fine, but ABS is near impossible for chunky partsby WesBrooks - Printing
Could be a failing input, wire, connector, or thermistor. First thing I'd try is swapping the thermistors for the heated bed and hot end around to see if the other inputs read the same. If the thermistors for the heated bed and hot end are not exactly the same you may need to fiddle the config file to get this to work properly. Don't run the heaters when you do this it's just to see if the hotby WesBrooks - Ormerod
It was certinally a lot closer than the ABS but not easy. Part warped. Got a tiny bit of PLA left so will try with that as a temporary measure. Curious aboit the ABS working better faster though.by WesBrooks - Printing
...with regards to the part I need I've just noticed that a sample of PETG that I got from TCT Show will be enough for this so that may be far easier!by WesBrooks - Printing
Now I think about this a little more is this a black filament issue? Soaking up heat from the hot end when it dwells over an area for too long? Current extrusion temps 220|215 Layer 0.35|0.30 Nozzle 0.4 Filament (old from RS) black 1.75by WesBrooks - Printing
Hi All, I'm back to pitching a battle with ABS in order to get a new printer carriage part that will enable the extruder to be carried above the carriage. Anyhow, that's almost irrelevant! I'm investigating an enclosure, but following other conversations on here I'm printing with two perimeters and 2 top and bottom solid layers and just about getting by. One thing I noticed this morning was I tby WesBrooks - Printing
Thanks for the comments. Currently trying to re-print the front printer carriage in order to move the extruder onto it. Long bowden tube has proven to somewhat muddy the water when chasing parameters for TPU. Dropping from 500mm ish down to 80-100 should help! :-Dby WesBrooks - General
QuotePDBeal The recommended fuse level is generally determined to protect the wire and not the device. Your fuses and breakers should trip before your wire would overheat and catch fire. In most industrial applications, the fuses and breakers are sized against the wire size and not the device loads as its much easier to replace the device than it is to replace all of the wiring. Agreed, henceby WesBrooks - Safety & Best Practices
I was thinking electrical noise but I've had no complaints yet so not really an issue. If practical I'll bond the foil to earth, it won't hurt! I'll be using that foam in some sort of frame work. I'm going to look at an automatic extinguisher, so the chamber needs to hold together when that releases and vents through a weighted flap.by WesBrooks - Slic3r
Yeah having imaged searched that's what I meant! :-Dby WesBrooks - Safety & Best Practices
Hi All, I'm looking at earth bonding my machine to save any potential H&S and compliance issues and as an electrical noise control measure. Aluminium is a bugger for oxidising fast and making poor electrical connections. What would people recommend? I'm thinking tap, and sand/grind back the anodising around the hole brass screw and star lock washer to bite in a bit? I'm planning to bond wby WesBrooks - Safety & Best Practices