The repetier system is getting very comprehensive Couple of minor queries: With host V0.50, the small heater power graph at the bottom does not appear to be working. With "Show Heater Power" enabled, there is just a blue line at the bottom which stays at 0, while I have a meter showing the sanguinolulu is switching the extruder heater power. In the "Object Placement" view, is it possible to maby nb99 - Repetier
Without having actually done animation /stop frame photography on my Reprap, there are some basic calculations: How long do you want the video playback to last - e.g 1 minute What playback frame rate does your app use - e.g. 30 fps this means you would need 60 * 30 = 1,800 frames How long does the print take that you want to film - e.g. one hour = 3600 seconds, so to get 1800 frames, youby nb99 - General
Those little plastic tags that hold a bread wrapper closed - plus some hot glue, couple of them on my X-carriage holding the wiring connector and the end-stop actuator.Not so much 'not proud of' (they work fine), as 'don't usually volunteer the info in polite company"by nb99 - General
Is there a way to duplicate 1 or more items loaded onto the grid in the Object Placement screen? If I load and arrange say 4 small items, then I want to have that row of items 3 more times on the grid, being able to select, then Ctrl-C + Ctrl-V to copy and paste would be cool. ATM I seem to have to use the Add STL dialogue for each individual added item. Also - intermittently, when adding STLsby nb99 - Repetier
Couple of things I have run into giving Y shift - pulley occasionally slipping on stepper shaft. I eventually printed a 3-grub-screw pulley. - marginal Y stepper current, so it appears to run OK most of the time, but a chance combination of resistance (maybe combo of tight or dry spot on rods, small eccentricity in pulley) causes it to skip. Increase stepper current. (I do a simple / bruby nb99 - Printing
What does the "Jerk" parameter control? It is presumably something similar to acceleration ?by nb99 - General
If repetier shows the whole model, then probably not the gcode. When you re-add the question to (probably General actually, Printing I guess is more for problems with the appearance of completed objects rather than a technical issue like stopping) include teh above detail plus a photo of the object, and mention if you have printed anything as large or larger successfully. (I'm wondering about hetby nb99 - Slic3r
Unless you have a reason to think it's to do with Slic3r's gcode, then probably more appropriate in the Printing or General forum. It could be many things, from overheating stepper drivers to intermittent wiring connections, although stopping at the same place reduces the likelihood of the more random ones. Repetier host shows what the solid form of the gcode will look like - does it show the whby nb99 - Slic3r
Oh well - it's made me try something I've been meaning to do fo a while, a parameterised "Support Pillar" in OpenSCAD Works perfectly - no sag under the bridge. The pillars are hollow 2mm square. The intention was for the triangular top pieces to each be a single 0.5mm thick sheet, but with anything less than 1.5mm thickness slic3r produces gcode that visualises looking like a moth has nibby nb99 - Slic3r
Keep on increasing the width - the support does not kick in, but the sag does..by nb99 - Slic3r
Any word on the Support not working? My simplest test case 3mm walls, 10mm hi, 10mm deep, 20mm wide, cube([3,10,11]); // left translate([20,0,0]) cube([3,10,11]); // right translate([0,0, 10]) cube([23,10,3]); // top +==========+ | | | | | |by nb99 - Slic3r
Excellent ! The Cool / slow down layer print time is a major enhancementby nb99 - Slic3r
Quoterobotmar external post slice postprocessor, What I have found about using the new filter facility ( which I requested so I could automate my Cool mechanism for Slic3r gcode go Repetier ) After slicing, the "main" gcode file is written, with Slic3r, if you loaded "abc.stl" using Load Gcode then the output will be "abc.gcode", or a constant "composition.gcode" if you used Generaby nb99 - Repetier
show the OpenSCAD code you're using, and attach the STL.by nb99 - General
What host s/w, slicer, and firmware are you using?by nb99 - Reprappers
Quotebassman 30mm fan blowing on the top end of the hot end to keep the plastic cool and this is making the hot end temp dip quickly I fashioned a small shield from heavy foil (baking tray) kaptoned to the lower end of the thermal barrier to keep the fan draught off the heater block..by nb99 - Printing
May be that the filament is getting 'grabbed' in the thermal barrier due to expansion - as the heat gradually travels up the barrel. (and therefore increasing the temp may just be increasing the problem) I had the same hot-end setup - and that was happening to me - it would print 1/2 a dozen layers then start to get all stringy, starving for filament, ( with PLA - not certain if the same thinby nb99 - Reprappers
Theoretically, a heated bed would draw less than 10 A, a hot-end just over 2 A, and the steppers less than 2 A in total (the other electronics negligible) So "theoretically" - a 17 A PSU should be plenty, You can check your PSU by using a meter on the 12v supply **AT to the PSU terminals**. With everything running, if it drops by more than a few points of a volt, then it's struggling.by nb99 - Reprappers
My prusa is in the corner of our lounge (very cooperative wife - I print lots of replacement bits for her classroom games Can't hear it over the TV. ( I don't run at very high print speed - yet) I wouldn't have thought the fire risk was *much* greater than a PC - the 200 odd deg hot-end is in the middle, unlikely to catch in the curtains... And I can't remember having seen anyone on the foruby nb99 - General
@noobman: good idea - but for another time - this exercise was for me to check out the simplest fabrication hot-end with nothing "heavier" than my little drill-press. @north90: I ended up using an L section piece of aluminium, which is a bit thinner but more surface area for a similar volume of metal, so it looks like it will sink the heat quite nicely. I had one or two other variations on theby nb99 - General
Yeah - some sleep helps I like the quick access of the groove mount, (my new J-head should be here anytime now, so I will now&then be swapping from "good H-E" to "Experimental" ) so I will fabricate a 16mm dia "plug" to go above the heatsink, and experiment with lightening the hsink (it hardly gets 'very warm' atm) until it can be comfortably supported by the groove mount instead of usingby nb99 - General
Ready to try my stainless hot-end, last hurdle to adapt it to my groove-mount Greg's extruder, is the gap between the top of the stainless+PTFE liner and the top of the 16mm diam hole that groove-mount hot-ends seat into. (there's about 15mm thru the carriage and extruder to the 3mm feed hole under the hobbed bolt - filament is bendy!.) The construction pages sorta skimp on the layout at the toby nb99 - General
I wondered about all the heater current going through the Sanguinololu board - but it seems to work fine, so seems not much point in fiddling about with an external FET. The main PSU connector is right next to the heater FETs on the PCB, so there's going to be very little drop across the connecting PCB lands - and as long as you have good chunky wire from the PCB to the PSU, in particular the groby nb99 - General
The same hot-end can be used for both ABS and PLA - it's just the temperature for each material that's different.by nb99 - General
Normal solder has an MP of about 220 deg C - which is around or lower than ABS, but RS sell a 300 deg C high temp solder.by nb99 - General
in the world of 0.5 / 0.3mm drill bits - 0.75mm has become somewhat less daunting I've just done the Welding tip "machining" for the north90 SS H-E on my drill press, which involves reducing part of the 6mm WTip to 5mm with a file, and a 3.5mm bore. It's all pretty approximate, but the .75mm walls don't appear to be a problem.. I appreciate that over the longer length of a bolt there's a gby nb99 - General
billyzelsnack: I note you said "I used to buy the bits for....." so I'm guessing even with practice you still work through bits on a regular basis? Do you generally need the highest revs available to drill .5mm through brass, and I guess you feed *real* slow.. lubrication? I wondered about drilling the last 1mm of the nozzle at a bigger size - maybe 1mm, filling with high-temp solder, sby nb99 - General
aplavins: nice and simple - presumably lathe required for the PEEK forming, which I imagine could be achieved with some careful drill press work.. I assume the length of the assembly mitigates the need for fan cooling 70mm of peek + 50mm of brass + acorn, more than 12 cm of hot-end? (did you mean "brass tube ... threaded 1.5mm into it." or 15mm )by nb99 - General
Grog's suggestion makes a lot of sense - my first CC ripoff (Visa) happened a couple of months ago, and the prior transactions that were not "usual, local" ones were paypal, which I've used for years without a problem - so another agency being compromised would seem to fit. (I'm in NZ, and the fraudulent transactions were Amazon UK, which tends to reduce the likelihood it was a local transactby nb99 - General