OK, I have printed a big box and my issue is confirmed solved! It really was a problem with the bed temperature swinging too much and overshooting for too long. You can see a full explanation in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JyydfcOcD0 Since I still use a glass bed, precise maintenance of the temperature is kind of impossible, but with a new PID calibration with the printing fanby aFrazatto - Printing
Alright! Lot's more prints and I pinpointed all the issues. Regarding webbing, on Slic3r, just zero z-lift when retracting, enable "scrape wile retracting" and disable "avoid crossing perimeters". Your results may vary, but for me it almost 100% solved webbing even in higher printing temperatures. Regarding printing fan speed, the fastest I kept the better for the print, but the extruder wasby aFrazatto - Printing
Quotedrmaestro It is true that fluctuations in bed temperature would create expensions or shrinkages, however I am quite sure that my problem is different. My reasons: You are right, your context is quite different. Man! I'm envy of your 100% fan all the time. I get much better parts over 60%, but the temperature on the tip of the nozzle drops too fast on long extrusions and causes it to skip sby aFrazatto - Printing
Quotedrmaestro I think it might be a problem related to the extrusion of the plastic or cooling maybe and I feel like it is a physics problem and not something that can be corrected. I went to somewhat that direction myself, but this is my second extruder and the issue persists, so I can't quite accept it's a extrusion issue. Unless it was a controller issue, but I use Marlin and generic step drby aFrazatto - Printing
QuoteNovaHuta Have you got adaptive layer height enabled? I believe this is a very common feature in all slicers by now, but no, I'm not using it. I have been doing a lot of tests and I think I got down to the real issue, I just need to print something large and box shaped to be sure.by aFrazatto - Printing
Ok ok so it doesn't have a lot of freedom to move around. I guess I could make something like a jaw clamp hold by a screw that locks the ball in place when tightened. A 3D printed part alone will probably not withstand that kind of stress for long....... Maybe I could use a pipe section cut in half to reinforce the jaws....hummm..... Sounds like a plan! Thanks o/by aFrazatto - General
QuoteVDX ... construct a ball-joint - then you can squeeze the housing sideways to clamp the ball (this is pretty common with ball joint mounts - have some for my 3D dial indicators) ... Hum....I see.....so everything is external........ Would you have some examples to share so I have a more clear idea of how to design the parts?by aFrazatto - General
Maybe this will help, take a look at one of the fixed sections I'm already using (.stl file attached). This joint goes inside a pipe and is fixed in place with a pin all the way thru. You can connect several pipes together in different angles. The version I'm currently working now is a variation in which the part inside the pipe should rotate freely. Once the right position is found, it shouldby aFrazatto - General
Hey there people o/ Please take a look at the picture, it's not finished, I just thought it was a good idea to ask for feedback before continuing. It's supposed to be a free turning joint, the orange part being an lock and the little red arms will have some teeth at the end to lock it in place once inserted. But what I can't think how to do it is secure the whole thing in place once the rightby aFrazatto - General
okkk....no body seams interested, so I will just document my findings for future people with similar problems. I noticed the tests only offer 50% and 100% cooling fun speed, fixed thru the whole print. But on Slic3r I had it configured for 35% for normal layers and 100% for solid infill/bridges. After some trying a little here and there with the settings, setting the fun on a normal print to beby aFrazatto - Printing
Alright, I was able to fix half the issue, take a look at the picture. Apparently, one of the problems was cooling, the difference between solid infill and the rest was being caused by the difference between slow cooling fan and fast cooling fan. I tried with the fun at 25% and everything got worse, I tried with the fan at 75% and the transition error was gone (plus! bridges and retraction got bby aFrazatto - Printing
If you take a look at the picture, left one is printed with 0.1mm layer high and the right one is printed with, 0.04 multiplier, 1.2mm layer high. I can notice no difference in overall quality and it even shows the same low layer on the exact same spot where the gap begins, it's the first solid layer before starting the gap. It makes sense really, the bigger box was printed with 0.2mm layer, whby aFrazatto - Printing
Okkkk there seams to be ALOT of discord about what is called "magic numbers" for layer height on the MK3, check this very recent thread on the prusa After a lot of math being trowed around, people seams divided on if it's any multiplier of 0.0025 if you consider micro stepping, or 0.04 if you consider only full steps. Most people allegating there is no significant change in quality whatever youby aFrazatto - Printing
After a major upgrade to my printer, I decided to dig a little deeper on calibration to see if I could get as good prints as I see on YouTube. Having built my own Prusa i3, I always assumed everything was too crooked and not perfectly aligned to ever really work at that level of precision....but I was wrong.....I actually did a good job back when I had no idea what I was doing and these machinesby aFrazatto - Printing
QuoteDavid J Have you tried setting your layer height to an exact fraction of the pitch of the Z axis feed-screw? It works for me... Ok, that sound a little more promising. How do I discover that value?by aFrazatto - Printing
Quoteblkzera i have a corexy homemade printer and i am with the same issue. I think it called ghosting issue, you should look into it, i may be wrong, but do a google to see if you think it is similar. Nop, it's not ghosting. At least it's my understanding ghosting is one of the symptoms to z-wobble and it happens on Z direction. None of the pictures I saw for ghosting matches my case either.by aFrazatto - Printing
Please take a look at the picture, I don't know how to properly describe what is happening, so I can't even search for similar cases (yes I tried ) This is my "last" issue with my printer, I built it myself many years ago and always thought the cause was my extruder. Recently I upgraded my X/Z/extruder axis to the Prusa MK3s standard, run all recalibration I could find and the issue persists. Iby aFrazatto - Printing
I'm not sure I understand your problem, you are saying there is no way to set/save the values after you tested the bed or that there is no place to view the current values? I use Marlin and it's just easier to set this up on the configuration.h file and upload to the printer..... In any case, try to be sure PID for the bed is actually enabled. In Marlin you must uncomment this line "#define PIDTby aFrazatto - Firmware - Marlin
Ok!!! The program I used to port the configuration values did not recognized the section for MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING due to the HUGE differences in some parts of the file. The printer believed it was hitting the endstop all the time, It should be true but the default is false The Z action is something new, every time a X or Y home movement is request, the nose is moved away from the bed first. Nby aFrazatto - Firmware - Marlin
I'm clueless about what could possibly be creating this behavior, but when I try to home, for instance, the Z axis it first tries to move the X axis and than moves Z up instead of down just for a short burst and it stops. Something similar happens with all the other axis when trying to home. The only thing I did was porting my configuration files from 1.0.2-2 to the new ones (line by line, not oby aFrazatto - Firmware - Marlin
Ok.....so I was able to make 2 whole prints without any problem what so ever. Low temp around 195° and quite a good outside finish with almost no blobs or web. But now I cant print even the first layer!!!!! What is the chance the filament is the problem??? The seller says it's NatureWorks, the pure PLA kind, not the ingeo version.by aFrazatto - Printing
Just to let you know, PVC glue is the winner. Although you need a lot of it to work properly. Nothing that a little sanding after drying doesn't cover.by aFrazatto - Printing
Yep, just for documenting it, 40mm/s is the magic number for retraction and recovery here. Parts are getting out great now.by aFrazatto - Printing
Interesting! I unintentionally disabled firmware retraction and things got much much better! The only difference is that Slic3r was configured to use 30mm/s for recovery, but Marling is using only 3mm/s. Maybe this extra "punch" is helping to keep the filament moving?by aFrazatto - Printing
It's not for fixing printing problems, it's just to glue pieces together on large prints. Quotejohnleach2000 I have success by using a soldering iron to melt the two pieces together. The soldering iron can help to stick down any corners that are lifting on the print bed. You have a soldering iron with power control I assume?! Cause my chip one here would melt all the way trough the piece. Quoby aFrazatto - Printing
QuoteVeesta 10mm retraction? I use only 0.5mm and advance 0.1 when print starts after retract. There are some hairs in the print, but a quick burn from cigarette lighter will remove it without damaging the part itself. Use piezo lighter, NOT torch. The "click" will give you fast flame ON - OFF Ok, I'll make an effort to print at 190° and leave the retraction shorter. The lighter is a good adviceby aFrazatto - Printing
QuoteMechaBits Spot weld with a bit of PLA, you can put a strip of filament into a dremel...and spin it fast against the part. That is a good idea! Thanks. Also to correct small printing problems, instead of grinding I could just re-melt the thing in place. Quotepsneddon I'll let you in on my secret: That is the principle of modelism glue, but your option is probably much stronger. Unfortunaby aFrazatto - Printing
I just changed from ABS to PLA and was used to have good response from super glues (surface contact ones). But PLA is just not sticking. I tried modelism glue, but is not strong enough to melt the surface of PLA. I tried using putty directly, but it also didn't work.by aFrazatto - Printing
I recently changed from ABS to PLA, my chinese electronics wouldn’t allow the heatedbed to go over 100º, so I had no option but to change to PLA. It is REALLY frustrating this jamming all the time. I followed every instruction I could find, lowered speed to lessen the pressure, lowered the temperature (190° would be perfect for print quality, but 200° is jamming less), placed a sponge with oil bby aFrazatto - Printing
Quotedc42 Does the indicated temperature drop immediately the fan turns on, rather than over a period of a minute or more? If so, then that suggests a noise, grounding, or firmware issue. It's not immediate, since the heat must dissipate, but it is quite fast. I found another person with the exact same problem, if it was firmware, it would be more common. I believe it's something with the generiby aFrazatto - Controllers