Hi, I would like my machine to produce multiple parts in series. I am experimenting with knocking the finished product off the bed and that seems to work. Here’s what I am aiming for: Start-up code (heating nozzle, auto levelling sequence, etc) Start loop g-code Home sequence Print product Wait a minute Push off product Stop loop g-code and return to start loop g-code for X amount of times Finiby HugoW - General
Hi, Although we should never leave a printer print unattended, I sometimes doze off a bit during 48+hr prints. This usually occurs just before the print end, as by that time I am getting really tired. The noise of the printer(-fans) doesn’t let me sleep very well, though. So, I am looking for an auto-off function. Makes me sleep better. Unfortunately, I am better at looking for stuff than at acby HugoW - Smoothie
I figured out the G1 F220 E3 has of course nothing to do with heating the hotend. Obviously Cura sets that to the print-specific value before running the start-code we can program. The code just primes the extruder with 3 mm. Doing this before homing and leveling makes no sense, on the contrary. So here's my new idea: First Cura heats the hotend, then: G92 E3 ; set extruder's current value to 3by HugoW - General
Hi, I use Cura to slice and I modified the start-up code a bit but in basis it is as it wass when I downloaded Cura. Now I want to change it but I'd like some advise on that. The object of the excersize is to avoid PLA oozing out on start-up. The code does this: G1 Z5.0 F1000 ; Move the platform down 5mm G92 E0 G1 F220 E3 G92 E0 G32 ; Home XY and auto bed leveling G92 Z5.2by HugoW - General
I'm sorry I cannot help you fix this electronicly, it is the reason I would recommend you to run this (and any other) synchronisation mechanicly. I raise my print bed like this: You can see the belt and just a bit of the motor. With some pulleys I make sure the small pulley on the motor is almost 90 degrees covered by the belt, engaging enough teeth. Good luck, Hugoby HugoW - General
Hmmm, so basically there is no real reason if I stick to PLA, 0,4mm nozzle and normal printing. I'll keep it asside and might fool around with it a bit later. Cheers, Hugoby HugoW - General
Hi, I bought some new gizmos amongst which a V6-like hotend. It came with both a normal and a Volcano heater thing. I would like to stick to my 0.4 mm nozzle size, 0.2 mm layer height and my printer is not very big, although bigger than regular at 400 x 400 x 250 mm. Does the Volcano set-up add anything? Should I be able to increase speed, any other advantages? I print regular 1.75 mm PLA. Cheeby HugoW - General
Thanks. Zooming in on the layers view in Cura (I just figured out I could zoom in), I can actually see it prints two walls that don't touch. And that is indeed what it does, not only in the simulation: So I need to make the drawing such that the walls are 1.2 or 1.6 width. I can do that. Maybe even overextrude a little bit to make the walls glue together better. And I made a make-shift producby HugoW - General
I don't have a part cooling fan, yet, but I guess that is required now. I might go for 1.2 mm walls, keep the 0.4 mm nozzle on. How do you set extrusion width? Is this something I should measure and teach Cura, or do you set it in Cura? Cheers, Hugoby HugoW - General
Fixed it, sorry, my bad... Pics should be visible now. If you tried before just refresh (F5) to load the pics. Hugoby HugoW - General
No clue why the pics don't load, if I click on the link it does show. Does it show for you?by HugoW - General
Hi, I am working on an RC truck project and yesterday I printed the hood of the truck. Or I tried. The part is 270 mm wide (y direction on the bed) about 140 mm high (x direction on the bed) and 150 mm long (z direction on the bed). The walls are 1mm thick. When it prints, it only prints two 0.4 mm wide walls parallel, no infill. The result is ugly. Print pics: And the prinby HugoW - General
Euraka! Looking back at the list I typed above, all I could think of was firmware. So I checked and lo and behold, I found something. Last week, while trying to get the TFT to work, I upgraded the firmware of the TFT. While at Github, I saw they had an upgrade of the board's firmware as well and I guess I installed that while attempting to get the TFT going. Fortunately I keep a folder on my PC wby HugoW - General
I was soooooooo hoping you were right... The two spindles run very light, I can spin them with my fingers and it's all smooth. I switched the Z motor to the second extruder port (both in the smoothieware and by changing the socket on the board), it might be in the driver, but the problem persists. I then changed that back, problem (off course) persists. Next I changed out the motor. I had a spareby HugoW - General
I just noticed when watching the clip again, the problem seems to occour when the Z-movement stops. Check 0:18, 0:22 and 0:26 of the clip. I'll check the speeds, they are the standard in the 3-point probe cycle in Smoothieware. 4 mm/s quick homing, 2 mm/s slow. I've changed the acceleration of X and Y back up, those don't matter. I changed Z acceleration down to 10. Now all movements go wellby HugoW - General
Just changed X and Y acceleration from 3000 m/s2 to 1000, and Z acceleration from 300 down to 50. The problem is smaller, now, not gone. Strange thing is, this printer has worked in this config before without problems. I only changed from microswitch Z-probe to induction probe. A clip, of course the problem was minimal when the camera was on... Clip on youtube, don't know how to embed Hugoby HugoW - General
Hi, I am lifting a 6,2 kg bed on my CoreXY printer with a NEMA 23 stepper 20/40 reduction with belt pulleys and 2 mm pitch rods. It all runs very smoothly and I can trim the motor down to 0.5A and still it works nicely. But when changing direction it either makes a vibrating noise but continues, or it stalls completely and keeps vibrating untill I cut the power. During this stall, I can turn theby HugoW - General
Ah, you're running a BL Touch. I have a micro switch on an RC servo, hence the question. I finally settled on running G32 including homing X and Y, and when done, at Z = 5 relative to the sensor, I retract the sensor and give a G92 Z8.5. I don't like using G92 as it is dangerous to mess about with values after homing, but in this case it is written in the Cura startup sequence so I cannot forgetby HugoW - Smoothie
Wow, I'm nearly ruined my machine... I ran: M280 S12.9 ; Extend Z-probe G28 X0 Y0 ; Home X and Y G00 X150 Y150 ; Move to middle of bed G30 Z3.5 ; Home and preset Z value G00 Z10 ; Move away from Z-trigger G32 ; Run auto bed leveling G00 Z10 ; Move away to retract Z-probe M280 S4.5 ; Retract Z-by HugoW - Smoothie
Thanks! I in the meantime resorted to using an M306 after the homing sequence, fooling the Z axis. I level everything and then correct the Z-value. This is what I have now: G00 Z10 (make room for Z-probe to be extended, regardless of where the bed really is) M280 S12.9 (extend Z-probe) G32 (full leveling sequence including homing X and Y, first) G00 Z10 (move away to make room for Z-probe to beby HugoW - Smoothie
I even get a response when leveling: "WARNING: probe is not within tolerance: 3.519844" Hugoby HugoW - Smoothie
Hi, I have a retractable sensor on my diy printer, which stick out 3.5mm beyond the nozzle when probing. So I wrote the Z-min endstop config: gamma_min_endstop 1.28^ # Pin to read min endstop, add a ! to invert if endstop is NO connected to ground #gamma_max_endstop 1.29^ # Pin to read max endstop, uncomment this and coby HugoW - Smoothie
Hoi, ik ben met zo'n bordje en smootieware aan de gang, maar ik heb twee problemen. Ik heb gehoord dat ik op het Smoothie-subforum weinig kans maar op hulp, niet dat ik dat snap, maar het zij zo. Hier wel? Ik krijg de servo die mijn Z-eindschakelaar beweegt niet aan de praat en ik heb Chinese tekst op mijn TFT-tje, ik heb liever Engels of Nederlands. Als hier iemand kan helpen dan hoor ik het gby HugoW - Electronica
Huh, why? Is it me or is Trump involved? Bummer. Any idea where I can get info? Cheers, Hugoby HugoW - Smoothie
Hi, I have replaced my RAMPS set-up with an MKS SBase V1.3 board and I am almost done setting it up. The only thing I cannot get working is the servo I have which rotates the Z-probe down before homing and up again after. I added this to the config, between the lines anouncing the switch modules and the block for the PWM control of a fan: # Switch module for servo control switch.servo.enableby HugoW - Smoothie
Ah, thanks, good info on the 8825s, thanks. I am not really looking for better resolution, more quiet would be very nice. I also replaced my power source for that reason, it was really nice with an internal cooling system, but very noisy. I got rid of most fans on the machine by overdimensioning and adding heat sinks, it now only has a fan on the hot end and it will get one or two on the MKS boarby HugoW - General
Hi, intro: my homemade CoreXY machine was doing well until I messed up the RAMPS when converting to 24V. Bummer. But also the trigger for an upgrade. So I got an SBASE board to run Smoothieware and I got two 400 step motors to replace the 200 step ones on the X and Y. I have 20T pulleys on the old motors but I also have some 16T ones, both standard GT2 stuf. I ran the RAMPS at 16 microsteps/stepby HugoW - General
Hi, I just ordered the board and LCD as I fried my RAMPS. But I cannot find what connectors I need for the end stops. I just need do know their name, I guess, so I can google it further and order some. Cheers, Hugoby HugoW - Controllers
I was given the two NEMA 23 motors currently running the X and Y on my CoreXY machine, the 34 I still had in the parts bin. I might swap out the 34 at a later stage, but building the printer is not my first priority, printing RC car parts is. And that is working. I just feel the machine is very noisy, especially the big fans I have inside the power source (way overkill item again, also given to mby HugoW - General
I am experimenting with printing PLA, two layers, on a full copper top PCB and etching away everything that is not covered by the PLA. Seems to work, but getting the PLA to grip to the copper is not easy. I rough the copper with fine sandpaper (1000 grid) and apply hairspray. It sticks during printing, but it sometimes comes loose during etching. Hugoby HugoW - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)