Hi all, Mike1986 I can't tell for sure - but makerfarm list their extruder being a standard "Gregs Hinged Accessible Extruder" which should absolutely work with the E3Dv5 without issue. However without one in front of me it's not really possible to tell 100% - so I suppose the answer is "probably yes". uGen Glad to hear you are getting on well with the hotend now! Glad you like it and are gettby SanjayM - General
Nophead Yup, agree, the ambiguity is a total mess. We run our dimensions wide enough that you can feed true 3mm filament in our hotends, as well as 2.85mm. It's lame that there can't be a proper agreement that 3mm is ... well..... 3mm? It's not like this is a difficult concept really.... Swoozle Thanks for the feedback, happy that you are up and printing well. It is indeed an exciting time to beby SanjayM - General
Last night I discovered by chance that M6 flat locknuts like these in A2 stainless steel from toolstation UK work. They slide into Bosch Rexroth 6mm slot extrusion from the ends but only with the stamped markings facing forward, which is odd, probably to do with the swaging process leaving a slight assymetry. The fit when they are the right way around is truly perfect. M6 threaded bolts etc fiby SanjayM - General
I open the GCODE file in a text editor - notepad++ works well for this, and copy and paste one gcode after another. Nothing more to it. I am writing some little printrun based python scripts so I can have a mutable queue that I can add/remove items to on the fly. Doing this over network with octoprint or similar would be the ultimate goal.by SanjayM - General
Just a quick 1am thought, If you were to add another set of arms, to the same controlled central rotating pipes but 180deg out of phase on a morgan, you could then have another bed, hotend etc. The extra set of arms would then move identically to the opposite set, allowing you to print 2 of the same object at the same time. You just need to add temp control for the hotend. This might be usefulby SanjayM - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
I use 8mm silver steel from Cromwells in the UK. You can buy it cheap, and in long lengths. They ship true next day, but probably have a depot near to you if you are in the UK that will likely have some in stock. It's about £5 a metre. My oldest machine running silver steel has slight grooves where the balls of the LM8UUs have worn into them, the machine has probably done about 1000 hours and haby SanjayM - General
My printer can automatically eject parts once finished. Is matter control capable of continually printing one object after the other without human interaction? As in: Execute GCODE1 - send code to printer, monitor printer, let it finish Execute an ejection GCODE (Not 100% needed becaused ejection code can be added to end of GCODE1 but would be a nice feature) Execute GCODE2 - etc Eject Executeby SanjayM - Experimental
Nice print, AR15 lowers are quite a challenging print. What printer/support material are you using? Slic3r often has issues with holes being too small. Skeinforge seems to get them right, but skeinforge sucks in many other ways. You might try an older version of Cura which used skeinforge as the backend to slice (but the new version uses its own new slicing engine with which I am unfamiliar.)by SanjayM - Slic3r
That is bloody weird. I have never seen anything like that before. The ID of the 3mm hotends is 3.175mm all the way to the nozzle. So it seems that the measurements of the sleeve+filament is bang on target. Still I have no idea what is going on there, and your ABS definitely sounds like it has odd properties. Are you printing happilly with other filament? Or is this happening with everything yoby SanjayM - General
Hi All, To everyone that has a pending order with us, and about shipping in general: Everything is shipping! All orders made before June 11th have shipped. Everything else is shipping over the weekend, possibly Monday for some of the very recent orders. Everyone is receiving the most up-to date hotend, which is effectively the v5 now. Many performance and ease of use tweaks have been done,by SanjayM - General
I'll try and do a Dichloromethane print vapour refinish. Not much vapour finishing experience, but I have lots of DCM and plenty of prints to test on. It doesn't seem like anyone has actually done this and posted results anywhere? I have used DCM lots on PLA for solvent welding and for a little spot finishing with a DCM soaked paintbrush with really fantastic results. Can't show photos of thosby SanjayM - General
Kwetty That sure doesn't look right or proper. My apologies. There is I supposed a chance you have cross-threaded it, but it sounds like you have had a pretty good try at getting it right. Be careful not to damage the delrin coupler threads by trying to force the coupler straight in the harder aluminium heatsink threads. If you get in touch via the website feedback form I will sort you out withby SanjayM - General
You might want to look at Gecko-Drives and DC motors. A gecko drive basically transforms a DC motor into a stepper motor, with some fancy electronics, clever internal algorithms and a fast parallel logic type gate array. What this basically would mean is you could use the DC motor of your choice, but still get the precision and compatibility with Marlin/RAMPS.by SanjayM - General
turutk The idea behind the "stubby bit" is that if you drill a hole you will end up with the 59 degree drill point. If you tap that all the way to the bottom with a bottoming tap and then screw in a heatbreak you are going to end up with a tiny bit of free space, where the filament can wander catch or jam on it's way down. Using a bottoming tap and a heatbreak that is well countersunk on the entby SanjayM - General
Looked into some 350C thermistors myself for my E3D hotend. But yet to hear back from suppliers. What are you extruding that needs 400C? Have you considered a thermocouple and thermocouple amplifier? (Option -1 in Marlin)by SanjayM - General
I think the best solution is good quality rainbow-ribbon cable - this is one of my Mendel90's with a single neat ribbon serving all the needs of the extruder, the X Axis and the heated bed. Reasons I like this: It enforces a minimum bend radius of sorts all by itself, less kinking of wires that are being constantly moved means more reliability and less fire. If you want more bend-radius enforby SanjayM - General
Coin3 The tubing is 3.175mmID 6.35mmOD (Which is 1/8th Inch ID and 1/4 Inch OD). The couplers are 1/8th BSPP theaded couplers designed to accept 6mm or 1/4 Inch tubing. Whether you use your existing 4mm SMCNC tubing or our tighter tubing is up to you - but either will plug into our hotend coupler. I expect the SMCNC coupler will accept our tubing too. So it's likely that there are multiple confby SanjayM - General
What about variances in the balancing resistor on the PCB itself that is used to form the voltage divider which feeds the ADC? These boards are made by the lowest bidder in many cases, I wouldn't be surprised to see some variance in the resistors. Or even just "That resistor is close enough" when they don't have the right part in stock. It doesn't matter how awesome your thermistor is if the otheby SanjayM - General
chris33 Almost all of the revision-1 hotends seemed to print without issue. RichRap has one of the first off the production line and is getting excellent prints. Along with many others. So far only 3-4 hotends from the first batch have had the jamming issue. Those all seem to have been sorted out and are now up and printing with replacement parts. (Although I am still to hear from Hendo420?) I dby SanjayM - General
liweitianux and others with off heaters We posted hundreds of new heaters today. Anybody who has had any chance at all of having a bad heater has been shipped a new heater - first class airmail. Should be with you in a few days - no need to ask. I am really sorry to anyone who has had issues relating to this, we have been as proactive as possible in getting this sorted and have taken a bit of aby SanjayM - General
Just to concurr with nophead and others, adding constraint at the top of the threaded rod does not help anything. The position of your X/Y axes MUST be solely determined by your smooth rods/linear bearings. The threaded rods serve only to push the X-Axis upwards, nothing else. I also see no reason to eliminate resonance during Z moves, as far as I am aware no slicers make any X/Y movments durinby SanjayM - Mendel90
Glad to hear you are up and getting nice prints! Any pictures? Really appreciate your feedback and patience throught the whole saga. If you ever order from us again do get in touch and I will sort you out with something. The thermistor is an EPCOS - B57560G104F rated beta is 4036K - What temps are you printing at? I'd wager that the increased force at the start of extrusion results in spring-by SanjayM - General
More. I found I got decent adhesion in most cases, but you could occasionally not get the first track to stick, or the skirt would unstick as the nozzle primed up and started to flow. With the hairspray it sticks so well it almost seems to pull the PLA fromt the nozzle. It also eliminated any issues with warp prone parts getting slight corner-curl etc. I stress that I really do just use a dustingby SanjayM - General
PolygonHell Good to hear that the replacement parts have fixed the jamming problem! Those symptoms really do sound quite bowden related, and I would indeed take a look at your retraction settings. Intermittent extrusion at low speed could be stiction induced stick-slip type motion induced by friction in the tubing or anywhere else in the filament path. I haven't a great deal of experience with boby SanjayM - General
Jimthree Yup, wilkos eveyday value hairspray, yellow can, very cheap. Nophead Interesting. I have 3 printers running PLA+Glass - all using picture frame glass (from different shops/sources but all intended for framing) and a bit of wilkos hairspray. I get the perfect combination of sticking fast while hot and releasing entirely once cooled below about 40-35C by my bed thermistor (somewhat inaccby SanjayM - General
With regards to cooling times, my current time-to-detach is about 4 minutes, in a warm room with no fan. I expect with a good fan, and some ducting you could get this timing down to 90 seconds or so. I really don't think that going much faster than this is of any real tangible benefit when prints take multiple hours. I think people are getting bogged down in this timing discussion because theby SanjayM - General
Ohmarinus The machine is one of my "beater" machines - it's one I keep at school with kids about I have about 5 machines in total. Kid dropped a screwdriver of the bed a few days ago. The bearing isn't worn, it's just the fender washer wiggling about a bit. It's giving the belt a bit of tilt during reciprocation, but all my prints are coming out to within 0.1mm or better with sharp corners. Theby SanjayM - General
Nophead Here here! so far the simplest parts have been the most awful pain. Simple off the shelf fan? You can have that in 6 days...... Actually I haven't even made them yet, and we're all on holiday. Wait 2 months for fans! Specifically specified 6mm heater @ 40Watts? We'll change it to a 6.2mm heater @18W halfway though the batch. But we won't tell you, and we will label and package them as exaby SanjayM - General
Gone through the cartridges of various batches with a multimeter. Extin is correct. There are some bogus cartridges in the mix. Despite being ordered as 40w, and labelled as 40w a small number of the cartridges from a particular shipment are more like 18W, with resistances between 7.5-8.5 Ohms. ARGH. I really appreciate the heads up. I would try drifting it out with a 5.5mm/6mm punch, or even theby SanjayM - General
jzatopa In terms of speed, there will be some printing speed up from the fact that the printer doesn't have to move around the bed as much as it is printing. However there is the long step of cooling and reheating between parts that probably cancels that out and then some. The part shown is just a tiny spacer for the gear set in question. The actual gears range from 25-100mm in diameter, so notby SanjayM - General