Looks nice! Have you had any problems with lateral forces on the filament causing it to bunch up before it goes into the heater barrel? That seems to be the main problem I have with my extruder.by jeffpark_ - Mechanics
What arduino host version are you using? 15 is working for me but I had some issues with other versions (I can't remember which ones).by jeffpark_ - RepRap Host
Well after 2 years of working on it off and on I finally got an extruder working and built a fairly descent model: I am having a few issues between the layers as you can see here: Does anyone have an idea of what is causing this and if there are some settings i should try playing around with to improve the quality? I do have a rather large nozzle (0.5mm with a 0.64mm extrusion size) that I bby jeffpark_ - RepRap Host
freds Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I took a peek into the generation 3 firmware 1.2 > for the motherboard and there's a routine in > steppers.pde: > > // enable our steppers so we can move them. > disable any steppers > // not about to be set in motion to reduce power > and heat. > // TODO: make this a configuration option > (HOLby jeffpark_ - Controllers
I'm having problems with my toolhead slowly creeping down (McWire) during a layer, as you can imagine this causes lots of problems. Does anyone have a quick fix for either ReplicatorG or a firmware hack that would keep the z-axis stepper motor powered between layers? Possibly there is a Skeinforge setting I haven't discovered yet. I though of manually grounding the enable wire for the stepperby jeffpark_ - Controllers
I use NEMA17 motors on my McWire and they have plenty or torque for the screw drive. For the McWire, the limiting element is usually the connection between the screw drive and the motor, not the motor itself.by jeffpark_ - Reprappers
I've seen several UK sites mentioned in other threads, but I don't recall many US suppliers. I was trying to find a supplier for molding supplies and HDPE/ABS sheets to experiment with and I found this at TAP Plastics. ; Does anyone know of any other suppliers in the US or have experience with TAP products (quality, service, etc.)? -jeffby jeffpark_ - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Forest, or anyone for that matter, where do you get your bits from? I'm in the US, so US suppliers preferred.by jeffpark_ - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
How do you get the edges clear? Mine always have the coarse look.by jeffpark_ - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I just have a header board of a cortex-m3 and an old parallel jtag interface with no software. I've got some experience with embedded systems but mostly with FPGAs and DSPs a few years ago so I'm a little rusty. On the other hand I work with C++ daily. It just seems like every time you switch to a new MPU there is a huge learning curve like a brick wall until you get going (at least for me), thenby jeffpark_ - RepRap Host
Thanks for the response. I hadn't though of multiple passes, but that seems like a viable idea. Contrary to what I though would happen, I actually had more melting at lower RPMs. When I cranked the speed up, the cuts were cleaner and the chips were not melted or sticking to the bit. Can anyone explain this effect? Is it simply from the extra wind velocity coming off the bit? The rig seems to tby jeffpark_ - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I did my first milling tests (on a McWire bot) and came up with a few issues maybe some of you experienced millers could help me with. First of all, my geometry was a little skewed from flex in the mounting bracket and the bit itself. I plan on slowing down the movement speed and upping the rpms to try to remedy this. The other problem I was having was that the milled material would stick to thby jeffpark_ - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Check for bridged pins on the ATmega chip, sometimes they can be really hard to see. You might also want to double check the solder on all the parts (especially the Capacitors), to make sure it is shiny silver. If any of the solder paste is dull gray, touch a hot soldering iron to it until it turns shiny. The motherboard in its current revision won't lite the power LED unless you use the jumperby jeffpark_ - Controllers
If you want to test the motherboard without loading the official firmware, this should light up your power LED IF you have a power supply attached - the photo is pretty self-explanatory: As for the extruder board issue, if you are using something like the USBTinyISP make sure the power jumper is set correctly. I am still a little uncertain what you are asking here, is your bootloader hardwaby jeffpark_ - Controllers
I've been following your thread for a while now and I must say I'm impressed and looking forward to seeing your board driving machines! I was wondering what software/toolchain are you using to write/compile/upload code to the ARM? I've got a couple Cortex-M3s (just the microcontroller/breakout boards) I've been thinking of coding for, but just haven't had to time to research them. Thanks and gby jeffpark_ - RepRap Host
If you are looking for the Stepper Driver board: Here is a direct link to the SMT board v2.3 and here is the older thru-hole board v1.2 The gerber/eagle files are in the zip. Both should be compatible with each other. If you want to build and actual stepper motor (not the controller board), that is beyond my knowledge.by jeffpark_ - Controllers
Also try using Arduino build 0010. I think I read somewhere that the later versions do not work for the arduino firmware at this time (but do work with Sanguino/RepRap Motherboard?). Scroll down a little on this page and you can get the older builds.by jeffpark_ - RepRap Host
It might be possible to sharpen the bit using a grinding wheel or angle grinder, if it will fit that is. I have sharpened bits like this: in a vice using a thin cutting wheel on an angle grinder. I have also destroyed bits trying to do that too, but going slow and a steady hand helps. Be sure to wear goggles, those bits of metal really hurt. Once you sharpen a bit like that, it tends to dull oby jeffpark_ - Reprappers
Actually, here is my total order from McMaster from a little over a year ago. Most of the part numbers are still good though.by jeffpark_ - Reprappers
If you are talking about the notches on the edges that are opposite of each other, those are to mount the paddle or whatever you use to trip the opto endstop. If you are refering to the back part of the Z plate (the double piece), I think they were intended for a captive nut/bolt to hold the arms, but the arms were moved to the aluminum L pieces. Here is the McMaster part I used for the self tapby jeffpark_ - Reprappers
Did you try changing your drill press rpm? I had to lower mine to drill acrylic/lexan or it melted every time, even for quick pecks.by jeffpark_ - Reprappers
Here is the exact item from McMaster-Carr of the springs I have (I dug up an old invoice) Type: Extension Springs Material: Steel Steel Type: Zinc-Plated Spring-Tempered Steel Ends: Loop Ends Overall Length: 4" Outside Diameter: 1/4" Wire Diameter: .032" I halved the springs for the arms extending forward on the Z stage holding the plate against the U-channel aluminum (circled in red). I thiby jeffpark_ - Reprappers
I've been hosting v7 of the LiveDVD here for some time (if you don't have access to torrents due to firewall/isp etc):by jeffpark_ - RepRap Host
If you want to program the g-code firmware (which you probably should), you can just delete all the _SNAP directories and it will solve this error. I know this isn't really the optimal solution, bit I think it may have something to do with having two extruders defined in the lib dir (the gcode version and the _snap version). Someone who knows more about the programming might be able to confirm/cby jeffpark_ - RepRap Host
> - For coupling the stepper motor shaft with the > threaded rod, use a 3/16" ID tubing instead of the > mentioned 1/4" ID. This will give a tighter fit. I had to do the same. Also, make sure the outer diameter of your tubing is small enough that it doesn't rub on the aluminum L pieces. If it rubs enough, it can cause the stepper to slip inside the tube. As far as the drive itself, Iby jeffpark_ - Reprappers
A hint with the McWire bot, before you thread the drive nuts onto the threaded rods, put a couple layers of heat shrink around them to fill the gap between the nut and the pipe clamp. If you use electrical tape eventually it will sag (especially on the Z axis) but the heat shrink seems to stay put.by jeffpark_ - Reprappers
The MakerBot store has several motors and I've ordered directly from Keling Tech I think the motors from Keling I ordered were KL17H247-1684B (NEMA 17)and the KL23H251-24-8B (NEMA 23). Both had dual shafts with a flat on it if that is what you are looking for.by jeffpark_ - Reprappers
I was having a little trouble with this so I though I'd share what I found out, maybe someone will find it useful. If you want to use the Sanguino on the motherboard for anything other than the RepRap firmware, you can do one of the following. 1) Pin 14 of the Sanguino is connected to the power switch, and normally the firmware sets the pin to ground. If you have your own test code or no code lby jeffpark_ - Controllers
A demo version of Rhino 3D...its not open source and the registered version is a tad expensive (other than the edu edition). In my defense for using non-open software, I wasn't on my home computer and this was very easy to set up for a rough modeling job.by jeffpark_ - Mechanics
The main problem I've had with worm gear drives is friction increasing the force needed to push the filament. I have no way of extruding an extruder, and the materials I have used aren't slippery enough once you get enough pressure to hold the filament against the worm drive without excess slipping. Perhaps I could modify my v1-ish extruder to use a skate bearing or two to apply the pressure iby jeffpark_ - Mechanics