A broken or failing wire, thermistor or thermo couple springs to my mind first. Or you need to do auto pid tuning on the hot bed, possibly on the bed as well. Did you try replacing the temperature sensor?by imqqmi - Printing
So if I understand correctly the nozzle itself moves those parts in a straight line? Does this effect propagate to the center? Ie if you create multiple circles within each other the same flatness effect occurs? Also does this happen if you cut the bottom part and move it down with multiple copies across the y axis? Could it be due to some kind of translation errors? Do you use auto bed levelingby imqqmi - Printing
Can you notice the smell? I've got a roll of filament in the past that smelled like abs mixed with pla, the pla smell was a bit stronger. Then downside was that it clogged the nozzle more often, probably the pla burning up loosing its viscosity. 210 is definitely too low for ABS printing, so I think it's a mixed filament. Looking at the picture the ABS is almost as shiny as the pla. The ABS I usby imqqmi - Printing
Looking closer at the pictures it would seem that the width of the perimeters vary. This could be due to an uneven bed. Is it heated? It could be warping by heating it up due to thermal expansion. If you have a dial indicator you can set it up against the x or y axis, then move the axis toward the dial indicator like 2mm, then note the distance indicated, then move it back 2mm. subtract the diffby imqqmi - Printing
- Are the rods/x/y axes square to the bed and to each other? Try getting it square before relying on auto bed leveling - No skipping steps? Are you using stealth chop? try turning it off - Did you setup and calibrate motor current? Maybe the micro stepping motion is choppy/jumpy. Tuning motor current will help a great deal. - Could you upload a gcode sample? This would rule out gcode errors - Areby imqqmi - Printing
This may be helpful, see my post, 5th post from the starting post:by imqqmi - Reprappers
Check if the end stops aren't accidentally connected to short out +5V and GND. That would cause a brown out interrupt. I don't know how Marlin handles it, it could just be that it doesn't report a brown out and just halts the printer.by imqqmi - Printing
Go to your slicer settings and find the following line below and remove it. It will stop the bed from moving to 5mm. It's probably missing an G92 Z0 right before this line, so it would move the bed down 5mm instead of up at 5mm absolute coordinates. G1 Z5 F5000 X0 F5000by imqqmi - Printing
Hehe, I've been there 3 years ago but learned a lot! Now I'm running my DIY corexy printer and couldn't be happier, and very little trouble shooting was necessary to get it running, just a few tuning sessions. It's certainly a steep learning curve. Did you do PID auto tuning? Seems to me either your PSU isn't powerful enough (should be around 15 Amps if you've got a heated bed) or PID settings aby imqqmi - Reprappers
Please post a picture, it's hard to trouble shoot without a visual reference of the output.by imqqmi - Printing
What nozzle size are you using? Seems like a 1mm nozzle to me. Make sure the correct nozzle size or extrusion width is configured in the slicer (about 1.25 times nozzle size). The layer shifts points to either a belt slipping or missing steps, or feedrate/acceleration set too high. Check the motor current, use the guide to calibrate it. If all seems in order adjust the feedrate and acceleration.by imqqmi - Printing
It looks very shiny, a bit too shiny to be pure abs. Are you sure it's pure ABS or is it a hybrid, maybe mixed with PLA? I got such a roll of filament. It needed about 230 degrees nozzle temperature and printed a bit more shiny than regular ABS. My pure ABS filament prints at 258 degrees (give or take 5 degrees, using a k type thermocouple). It's called 'Dutch ABS'.by imqqmi - Printing
The fan output isn't really meant for the extruder fan, it's meant for a part cooling fan. I've made a fan speed controller connected directly to a 12V power supply (simple adjustable voltage regulator with potentiometer) so I can adjust the speed of the extruder fan and set it to a low almost inaudible speed. It works very well. I also use a high quality ball bearing fan as those can be used inby imqqmi - Reprappers
Hi Nikki, It would have about 200mm between two points, less so if you use pulleys of course.by imqqmi - General
I've used 6mm T2.5 closed loop 960mm long pu steel reinforced belts on my old prusa i3 for the z axis to synchronize the two m5 lead screws. These were transparent brown colored. They were locally sourced and cost a lot more, around 20 euros a piece compared to chinese made belts. It's great quality belt, very flexible yet no stretch that I've ever noticed. I used 16T pulleys withoutcany problem,by imqqmi - General
That looks really well engineered, leadinglights! It's like ballet danceby imqqmi - General
Last weekend I've designed a led lamp holder for a gooseneck led lamp build I'm making. I've ordered a gooseneck of 600mm, longer than usual. It's going to be used as a work light, to point at things I'm working on. I like the spotlight kind to highlight certain details. I already have a ready made commercially availabe led lamp but the base of it is always in the way. I also want to make a versiby imqqmi - CoreXY Machines
No you can't put mains power on a mkxxx heated bed for a number of reasons, the resistance is too low and will blow the track on the pcb / alu plate, the insulation isn't made for mains, it may lead to unsafe situations. The psu you linked to is most likely too weak depending on the resistance you needcsomething like 12-15 amps psu, but that's only for a 200x200mm heated bed. For 300x300 you'd neby imqqmi - General
If there's no thermistor there it reads 0 as that represents infinite resistance. Maybe a loose connection or the wire has a break somewhere that connects depending how the wire is bent. If you have a digital volt meter with resistance setting you can try measuring the resistance. It should read around 100k ohm. Bend the wire at different points and see if it changes to infinity (usually displayeby imqqmi - General
Yar60, if your thermistor is off by 29 degrees c tye maximum of 100 degrees will trip a halt. Try increasing this to 105 to see if the temperature it halts at changes? If it does, you need to try a different yhermistor table. If you have a thermometer you can use as reference you can build your own thermistor table. I did it for mine using an ir thermometer. Ifvyou have an aluminium bed stick a bby imqqmi - General
I don't think many 3d printers are really suitable to machine metal beyond milling a pcb, which is closer to engraving anyway. I'd go for a dremel with an extension so you move the weight off the machine if you really want to give it a go. The prusa i3 and clones are not stiff enough to get the end mill dig into the material with sufficient stiffness and force to get good chips. It will deflectby imqqmi - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I think your best bet would be a Dremel with extension so you don't have to put any weight on the gantry. 2020 extrusions are great for 3D printing and laser cutters but machining anything more than engraving it's too flexible. I own a 700x500mm openbuilds ox with 2080 y axis side extrusion braced with a plywood wasteboard an two 2060 and 2040 extrusions for the gantry and it's too flexible stillby imqqmi - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
The duet controller hasn't arrived yet, so I've decided to adjust the motor current to see what difference it would make. The procedure I used: I used a digital volt meter (DVM) and put the negative to ground and attached positive to to the screwdriver I setup the printer so it moves really slowly using G1 X50 Y50 F10. This moves only one stepper in a corexy configuration. The jumps were clearby imqqmi - CoreXY Machines
The heater plate was used all day long for many days, in a room with parakeets which are known to be rather sensitive to poisonous gasses and are still alive and tweetingby imqqmi - General
As it happens I own one that is rated for 30V. The part number is 30uf900. But you're right if the polyfuee is rated at 16V it needs to be replaced with one such as mine or a car fuse rated at 11A. I think when I set the bed temperature to 95 it will trip and consequently trigger the firmware runnaway protection. I think I'll set a maximum duty cycle at say 80% and see what happens.by imqqmi - Reprappers
I'm looking forward to it! The longest run is about 450mm. I've also noticed microdtepping isn't smooth it jumps going slower and faster through a full step. Especially at shallow angles the extrusion lines get very slightly wavy. I'm not going to put time in tuning the ramps stepsticks as I switch to a duet soon. I hope the duet trinamic steppers will do a better job. I've also received 16 toothby imqqmi - CoreXY Machines
If you want 24V for the bed only you don't need to change anything on the ramps board, just use 24V on the 11A capable input. Just use a separate 12V psu for the 5A capable input. My 3d printr works like that for 3 years, even with a 12V bed, I set the maximum duty cycle to 128 in marlin as to not trip the 11A fuse. 24V at 50% duty cycle is basically the same as 12V current wise. If you want 24Vby imqqmi - Reprappers
Pcb can withstand heat up to 170 degrees depending on the Tg rating and tor shorter duration a little higher even. I heated my mk2b up to 140 degrees with no issues. I've made a heater plate based on mk3 bed, an aluminium plate with copper tracks and standard conformative coating. I've tested it at up to 180 degrees by powering it at 12V terminals with 24V. It began off gassing a bit so made it tby imqqmi - General
Thanks gmedlicott! I'd like to see your design, do you have a post or video about it? The Nema23 steppers can't yet reach high velocities (at 80mm/s is about the maximum), I can't see it flexing as much as just shaking. I need to pin it down on a more solid surface I think. I'll experiment with crossbracing, it's easy to do with the v-slots. I've printed a 600mm drag chain for the xy motion partby imqqmi - CoreXY Machines
I started out about 3 years ago with a Prusa i3 clone with a laser cut wooden frame. It was a great machine to learn about 3D printing. Just about everything was wrong with the machine so I started upgrading things and it improved a lot but I hit a certain level where it was just taking too much time and too little return of investment. The mechanics were so weak just looking at it would make itby imqqmi - CoreXY Machines