QuoteDirty Steve I believe your thermistor tables are off. @280c most hot ends are going to melt, and most ABS will be over-cooked and brittle. All metal hotend ...by PulsedMedia - Printing
QuoteAno Look at this test: http://airtripper.com/ That was quite informative, but as the writer noted the large diameter would require gearing, or even lowering the microstepping to begin with. He unfortunately did not compensate for the gearing difference, or even calculate "final force". Let's do a simple comparison by force * effective diameter: Plain insert: 27.58 Raptor: 17.89 Mk8: 29.4 Mby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
"Think of it like this, your car tire only has about 1" of contact" this is completely incorrect! I've actually spent time calculating tire contact patch areas. Diameter of tire affects the longitudal area, and width affects the - well sideways area Tire pressure affects overally to both directions. With the right tire size compared to bad you can almost double the contact patch area *despite*by PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Z can be tall too not a problem, just not required Delta has some other design considerations than cardasian - i'd rather to stick closer to what i already know. what i would like to use it for would be REALLY hard to print upwards - couldn't do it without support material, but with large X or Y can print without support.by PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Has anyone tried to use BIG filament drive wheel? Everything uses the M8 bolt option, but looking at MIG/MAG welding machines these uses very large wheel for sub 1mm line. That makes perfect sense too, that way you get more lateral (length wise) grip area, so has anyone tried using 20mm+ drive wheel? What was the results?by PulsedMedia - Reprappers
For ABS i have my cooling fan on slow, start with 255-265C, and bed ~100C. After a layer or too i raise the temp to 285-295, and eventually bed rises to 120C. PVA glue or ABS juice bottom. I like PVA glue that it's easier to get the parts of at the end, but some models are just so warp prone you need thick ABS juiced one not to warp a corner. Example of such print would be a big rectangle, sharpby PulsedMedia - Printing
I have a i3 laying around too from MakerFarm but it arrived broke and haven't (still) arsed to fix it. This is about original / i2. Actually i replaced some parts from i2 to this just to notice the dimensions are ever so slightly different and the parts wasn't backwards compatible i3 definitively has some improvements, no doubt over that, just look at Mendel90 which is very high quality kit andby PulsedMedia - Printing
Which good opensource designs there is where bed doesn't move, or at maximum moves in Z? Preferrably something easy to scale to desired size and widely used. CoreXY is a plus. Is there a good design available? I'm considering building another printer for which i'd like to have Z of at least 150mm and either X or Y 450-600mm to print something in one go instead of splitting to multiple pieces. Oby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Quoteni9htfury i solved mine by replacing and relocating some wires connected to the ramps board. doesn't halt printing anymore for last 3 days... what wires did you relocate and where did you relocate them to? Pics?by PulsedMedia - RAMPS Electronics
hmm... Yes, ofc! Tho glass transition is lower than in some of the automotive nylon variations. Wonder how that would affect things. Melting point: 343 So roughly 410C required for printing? Where to buy tho either as granules?by PulsedMedia - Plastic Extruder Working Group
on one article i see this mentioned: "high-temperature-resistant polyamide 46"by PulsedMedia - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I'm looking to create some parts which would function in a hot space, likely to see temps up to 250C peak and ambient of 100C. To be precise: These would sit in a race car engine bay, turbocharged so potentially very high temps when during summer air can be 40C. Polycarbonate would provide sufficient strength, for some parts ABS is sufficient. I have some PC-ABS mix pellets waiting to be made iby PulsedMedia - Plastic Extruder Working Group
after disassembling it, the bearings are fine. well, not just fine, but they are very good. The magnetic field is just so damn strong in this one compared to Wantai 42BYGHW609 (pretty much the same as 809)by PulsedMedia - Printing
ok took out the stepper - Bearings got to be broken on this one! From shaft i can barely rotate it by hand.by PulsedMedia - Printing
Drivers seems to be OK, but then again, that could be the ultimate cause ... Well i just ordered some TB6560s to replace. Same price as A4988/Stepsticks pretty much, but higher current and probably easier to give higher voltage. Also i purchased 71oz-in Nema 17s in the hopes this damn skipping finally ends, and going to throw out the old X axis stepper motor, just in case it's the cause. Yea i cby PulsedMedia - Printing
I'm using cheapest nylon i could find: Trimmer line! Sure there is some warping issues with nylon, but they are usually rather small issues. Nylon requires the extra step of drying it, and damn it picks up moisture fast, but when it's dry it's a dream to work with compared to ABS. Sticks like hell on PVA glue or ABS juice too.by PulsedMedia - Printing
I'm probably more critical than the average guy, but when i got somekind of tool i damn'it but i want it to actually work!by PulsedMedia - Printing
Oh and i realize, these in itself will need a fan, most using that chip has way larger heatsinks. Or maybe i'll just replace with a old huge CPU coolerby PulsedMedia - Controllers
I bought 3 of these: I intend to use them with Arduino Mega2560 + RAMPS 1.4 + Marlin. Are there other issues than getting 24V Power supply for these and increasing the Marlin's timing? Do these boards as well have the slow optocouplers? If so has anyone modded to bypass them? Also these boards also require first +5V logic supply and only after that Motor power? Any suggestions how to delay a rby PulsedMedia - Controllers
I know I know, it's a old model, but still VERY popular model for it's cost. Tho it didn't use to be cheap. I spent literally thousands in this machine, building began something more than 2 years ago! But only finished it a year ago as i were being busy with other stuff. I bought the best parts available, sourcing everything individually. All metal hotends were a really new thing back when i begby PulsedMedia - Printing
I found out that any material -> higher temp == better result But ABS is so hard to work with, so much warp. Nylon is much much better. I might get a filastruder and try to make a ABS-Nylon mix to have their good characteristics combined. I also found out that more walls = better lamination Thicker the better.by PulsedMedia - Printing
Oh yeah, and what is the strongest option for Nema17 mount option? What stepper drivers to use?by PulsedMedia - Printing
Does such a thing exist as stepper wear? My X-axis on highly modified Prusa V1 started skipping randomly all of sudden, months without issues, same speeds as before, and all of sudden skips. Not initially, usually a bit into the print. Yesterday again, without setting changes, printed fine for like 8hours, and then constant skipping without a reason. So do steppers or stepper drives "wear" out qby PulsedMedia - Printing
Wow! What an amazing coffee table! So many gear designs, and those box shaped gears, sweeet!by PulsedMedia - Look what I made!
As for the heaviest axle, this isn't too badly priced: 1.8degree = 200 steps per revolution. with 9mm pulley 0.1413mm per step and in any case, it would need to be geared up for the required speeds and do microstepping. But i think 300 kg-cm might be enough torque to do that Now as i read that driver doesn't even do full steps - it doesn't actually supply enough power neither but with micrby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Plan is to make an filament extruder which makes the filament just prior to using and buffers a bit - this way we can also ensure the filament is 100% dry and not moist without special measures We've been right now been looking into motor solutions. Could easily get huge power if somehow one could control a standard BLDC with a separate speed controller and separate positional controller ... Witby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
Actually i'm quite familiar with mechanics - just not exactly this kind of mechanics, but the physics underneath are very familiar. The main objective is to keep it upgradeable. RAMPS is perfectly capable with some hacking, it does give the right signals, so it's just matter of choosing the right stepper drivers. Speed: 2000mm/s is not any more a goal, steppers are not suitable high speed motoby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
I loaded up a basic piece on slic3r, made settings changes etc. for a 34 178cm3 build volume object, loaded up in pronterface. For speeds i used what one of my prusa v1s can do with basic steppers, tho that printer has been getting slower and slower over time needing to turn down the speeds. I used 50% honeycomb for that part. Slicing was surprisingly fast and it turned out to be 79meg gcode fileby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
I've been considering the power requirements for heated bed. A standard prusa with 200mm * 200mm has surface area of 400cm2. Poorly insulated, open air contraption and requires roughly 120W or 0.3W per cm2 A printer with 1 000mm * 1 000mm heated bed surface area is 10 000cm2 and at same relation requires 3kW. However, well insulated bottom on the heated bed and a chamber will lessen this requireby PulsedMedia - Reprappers
WHY all this negativity? Every time someone present a idea not conforming the standard people are naysaying! As for PWM for DC motors -> that's actually the way most things control speed for DC motors! DC motors can take a huge punishment, and last quite a long time, just look at RC cars - well during the time DC motors were the standard still! It's a choice between brush hardness and brushby PulsedMedia - Reprappers