G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm What is that doing there?by DaGameFace - General
Just would like to know what CAD software you design with. I only know Autodesk Inventor, but I used to use Sketchup, and am in the process of learning Solidworks. Anyone know how to use something like zbrush or blender?by DaGameFace - General
Had another idea, Do you hear any hissing from your nozzle? Humidity can be absorbed into the filament and cause inconsistencies when heating this is especially a problem in nylon and pva. Also, what Filament are you even using? brand, size, plastic type?by DaGameFace - Printing
EDIT: post removed, it was originally marked a robot spam so I got a duplicateby DaGameFace - Printing
Link to a post about a good cheap printer Linkby DaGameFace - Reprappers
How do you level it with the probe if not a G29 code? I would sugest editing your start gcode before a print to have that code instead of G29, think it should be that simple.by DaGameFace - General
from what ive seen, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the printer. The slicer simply failed to send it gcode. Thinking it completed the print, the printer turned off the heaters. Its been a while since i've used repetier but i remember there being a wierd step where it used a slic3r plugin to generate its gcode, and didnt do it when you imported the stl, but rather had a few extra steps. Tryby DaGameFace - General
i have had an acrylic i3 for a while now, after I replaced the hot end with an e3d v6 I was extremely happy with it. I can post the files if you want to do the same and keep the exact same stepper motor and tensioner assembly. Many people print on glass, mirrors are indeed the best if you area going to use glass. Blue tape is good, but need kapton tape if you have a heated bed and are going to pby DaGameFace - Prusa i3 and variants
im just over here, loving my print bite, not using juice or messing with tape...by DaGameFace - Printing
my money would be on the z axis, but it actually isnt that bad. Could be a bent threaded rod? though that would probably manifest itself more noticeably. You buy cheap filament? if so, that could easily be variations in diameter. On another note, make sure you are basing you microsteps/extrusion on getting a perfect 2cm cube. This is something that some people do but it is not the way to get theby DaGameFace - Printing
think that s3d uses 2 empty layers between interface material and the part by defaut if that helps anyby DaGameFace - Printing
so, what I think you are wanting to do is have a normal plastic extruder AND the conductive paste extruder. Correct? Regardless, we need more information, such as board type and firmware. It will not be that hard to do, just set up as a secondary extruder with no heater or thermistor (I think). You could look into people who have done chocolate extruders as it is almost identical mechanically.by DaGameFace - General
Neat, wonder how how involved setting up those encoders in firmware is..by DaGameFace - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
if you dont want a reprint, I would suggest 2-3 coats of primer and a sanding then a finish coatby DaGameFace - General
ooh, the Canadian rupee really making it not seem worth it for ya? sorry to hear about that. But yeah, for an American ('Murica!) that looks like a sweet deal. Making me second guess going through the effort of building my own for my next printer.by DaGameFace - General
if you are going to go trough the headache of nylon, why not go for nylon trimmer line? its really cheap in bulk and doubt its that much more of a pain if you are already going the distance.by DaGameFace - General
If you want to use all metal hot ends with PLA, you need a ton of torque, the PLA gets warm and sticks to the metal easily. PTFE limits max temps but avoids jamsby DaGameFace - General
QuoteJamesK Quotecausing them to get so hot that it melts the filament with the hobbled bolt eek! I just had to bump up the current on my nema14 extruder, so now it's running at about 65C. I thought that was bad enough, but hot enough to melt filament? That's a whole 'nuther thing! I'm either going to have to go with a higher gearing ratio for my extruder or add active cooling to the motor. Choiby DaGameFace - General
So, I'm a freshmen in college at the same college my older brother went to last year and the year before. While he was here he had me retrofit an e3d v6 hotend on a rostock max v1 printer. The head of the engineering department was so happy with my prior knowledge of 3d printers from having built my own that he created a new position and gave me a job! I am a proctor in the 3D printing lab and haby DaGameFace - General
Quoterklauco It's gonna be cheaper to buy the optical strip and sensor as used in 2D printers then. I really want to see people rig up a 3d printer with some of these strips and use cheap DC motors for x/y, once the patent expires i'm sure there will be pre-builts sold this way.by DaGameFace - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Can't get over how much this reminds me of a 2D printer head when you put a ribbon cable on it like that. Looks tidy, concerned about amp-age through them, but if you say it works i believe it. Nice work as always DDby DaGameFace - General
think that 4.2 mm hole is so they can put a PTFE liner inside itby DaGameFace - General
I have no experience with nylon, Is it even worth all this effort? sounds like its a huge headache to deal withby DaGameFace - General
In high school i bought pretty much the cheapest china i3 kit that hat a heated bed and had quite a time putting it together and getting it running. They didnt send me a 40mm fan to cool to cold end, and one of the z axis threaded rods should have been a reject in QC as the threads were only half cut. The power supply was a bit shoddy so replaced it with a computer ATX psu, and then I accidentallby DaGameFace - Reprappers
Yeah, a dovetailed rail. That could work. Oh and so as to not waste any z axis build volume I would make the nozzles only about a centimeter below the bottom of the x carriage (seen some people make it hang down a couple inches below the x carriage but what I don't think they realize is that they are sacrificing all that space to max z height) these nozzles being that high would mean the x carriby DaGameFace - General
Ooh! a new idea, just spit balling here but how about a cnc'ed x carriage that has 3 (though could work with 2) rails in it and having 3 identical and low profile extruders that slide into the rails (possibly slide in from the bottom and have a screw adjustment at the top). Think I could make that work, though dont think explained it well.by DaGameFace - General
Collaborative design? if that's the case I may have to throw together a couple of ideas i've had on the subject as I want a triple extruder at some point as well. First of all, I like the idea of having the 3 nozzles in a row like your copper renders rather than a triangle, as trying to get the offsets set correctly for the triangle would be a nightmare, (unless you have a near perfect mountingby DaGameFace - General
NEXT TIME, make yourself an airtight chamber with a bunch of color changing desiccant packs in it in order to dry your filamentby DaGameFace - Printing
Cool! Will definitely look into it or some other render software, I didn't know i needed it until I saw those. You said that people have copied these designs? Must say I'm kinda supprisedby DaGameFace - General
found a cool article testing hobbed bolts against eachother, was wondering about this myself a while back but couldnt find the answer at the time From article: To summarize, here are the measurements from all of the tests, in order. An asterisk indicates the *8mm drive gears. MK8 - 9# MK7* - 9.7# MK7 - 11# Ultimaker - 11.3# (*&^%*O) SeeMeCNC - 12.3# Ultimaker - 13.3# (BangGood) HobGoblin -by DaGameFace - General